Jump to content
SAU Community

Finding Accessories 12v


lordsnipe
 Share

Recommended Posts

well you'll find theres an accessories wire that goes to the back of your head unit.. i cant rememebr the colour of it off the top of my head. but with a multimetre it should register ~12v when the key is set to accesories or on .. wth my boost guage i wired it up to my illumination wire, as i didnt need to see the light on my guag unless it was dark and i had my head lights on too

but yeah.. unless someone can correct me i would just say get a terminal block and tap into the illumination or accesories wire on your headunit... however this may require the fuse to be changed with added load

-Ruffels

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

cigarette lighter...

i used that as a remote wire in me landrover to wire up a amp/sub... only problem with it is when u got the keys out of the ignition and turn on the radio (only when im cleaning it ect) the sub dont come on... i was prepared to live with that so it was all good

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmm .. my deck isn't wired up so I can have the radio on with keys out .. but ciggie lighter is an easy spot to take 12v from .. cheers.

I'm probably going to go with this. I'm going to make a "harness", which will plug into the cigarette lighter harness to power my gauges. Benefit of this is it isn't permanent...

And, I don't smoke anyways.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RB26 JE pistons to suit 2.8 stroker crank 77.7mm and 86.5mm bore Custom made with EN plating and Je perfect skirt.  Valve pockets Suits 1mm over valves biggest lift you can throw at them. 21mm 210” wall 9310 upgraded wrist pins to suit standard sized 121.5mm rods. I had these made for my build but block had to be rebored to a larger size so sadly I can no longer use them. I spent a-lot of time and money on these pistons.  See photos these are the Heavy duty forging in 2618 material with all the bells and whistles accumulator grooves double force fed pin oilers skirt milling window milling etc.  The En plating was done to the whole piston this helps with heat and also critically in the ring grooves to prevent ring micro welding. The Perfect skirt is JE's propriety coating its a permanent coating that expands and contracts with the bore to prevent piston slap and noise and also friction. you can look these features up.  They have been balanced to a tenth of a gram at my expense. They come with Gas nitrided ring pack's and oil ring rail supports all brand new never used. The Dome volume is 17.9 cc which based on your Gasket thickness and chamber volume can put you anywhere you like in terms of Comp ratio in my case it was just under 9:1 but this is highly customizable for your build.  In terms of sizing these pistons will work with any 77.7mm build using the normal sized rods.  I did buy an extra set of rings at the time of purchase incase i stuffed one up during gapping so i will throw these in at my expense. I purchased these through performance wholesale in Brisbane and still have the receipt if you were to make these now it would cost more then double what i have them listed for. I am super fussy when it comes to building motors so you will see they have been measured and numbered with marker in the photos. Every thing has been handled and stored with the utmost care and diligence. looking for 2350 ONO any question please ask. test is better 0450 428 895 they will be sent via registered post anywhere in Aus free international buyers contact for quote.  
    • Ok that makes sense, I was circling around the idea that this kind of wear would only occur with too long intervals between oil changes but I see what you're saying about the cause being something else.
    • That's perhaps not even correct in this instance though. If the OP were in fact to bin all that troublesome crap and convert to DBW, and then if the problem persisted, we would at least know that it was not caused by any of that troublesome crap and he could go looking for it in more likely places. AND... he would have a significant upgrade in niceness to go along with it!
    • What has an oil change got to do with whether wear is occurring or not? Wear may be facilitated by oil having been left in too long and broken down - but it is far more likely to be a mechanical issue (ie, pressure). The thing with the tested oil being only 5000kms old makes it perhaps equally likely to be lead from bearings or lead from the additive.
    • I had a thought. I still haven't confirmed what additive was used but, the oil from this analysis was only 5,000 k's old and I believe was Mobil 1. Given that the oil was good and fresh, would there still be wear in the engine? What I'm trying to articulate is, I understand that internal wear will happen with incorrect viscosity or not changing oil enough (and maybe other reasons also). But would the wear continue to occur when the oil is changed? Surely it would stop wearing, ie the damage was done? If thats the case, could this suggest maybe that the lead count is not wear? I dont know if that makes sense. It does in my head.
×
×
  • Create New...