Jump to content
SAU Community

Nitrogen Filled Tyres


Recommended Posts

I was taking to the tyre dude today as I was getting my T1R's fitted.

He mentioned that for performance cars its best to have nitrogen in the tyres instead of air.

So.. What are the pros and cons? He said @ $9 a fill for one tyre.

What happens if you break down or if you have a punture? What happens.

Does anyone use this stuff for road use? or mainly for track?

Ive search the word nitrogen and nothing comes up in relation to tyres (only one person has said they will do it.).

Any info would be good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was taking to the tyre dude today as I was getting my T1R's fitted.

He mentioned that for performance cars its best to have nitrogen in the tyres instead of air.

So.. What are the pros and cons? He said @ $9 a fill for one tyre.

What happens if you break down or if you have a punture? What happens.

Does anyone use this stuff for road use? or mainly for track?

Ive search the word nitrogen and nothing comes up in relation to tyres (only one person has said they will do it.).

Any info would be good.

pros.

Nitrogen does not contain moisture and is much more tolerant of change in temp. eg less expansion or retraction therefore keeps a more stable pressure in hotter or colder conditions. Hence they use it in aircraft tyres.

cons.

its heaver than air, its expensive.

What happens if you break down or if u have a puncture?

Common sense tells me to either call for help or change the tyre.

At 9 bucks a tyre i would not waist your money. if u go to the track simply drop the pressure in your tyres. when they warm up they will increase pressure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless you're going to use it for track work, or you've got your own nitrogen pump, I don't think its worth it.

The pros given by Damo are correct. You don't get the changes in tyre pressure that you do with air as the tyre heats up, which makes them more consistent and less likely to overheat.

But its hard to find a pump, and so if you get a slow leak or want to tune your tyre pressures you'll be out of luck.

When I get a second set of rims I'll probably use nitrogen in my track tyres, and use regular air in the street tyres.

As an aside, which tyre dude has been the only one to say they'll do it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cons.

its heaver than air

Have you got any references for that?

Air is just under 80% nitrogen, and 20% ozygen. You've got 1% Argon, and everything else is just a rounding error.

Oxygen and argon are heavier than nitrogen, so assuming you're scientifically rigorous enough to be comparing the weight at the same temperature and pressure there's no way pure nitrogen could weigh more than air.

To the best of my knowledge you don't have to run higher pressures with pure nitrogen than air but I could be wrong. If so, then I guess nitrogen-filled tyres will weigh more...but you'd have to be a bloody good driver to notice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you got any references for that?

Air is just under 80% nitrogen, and 20% ozygen. You've got 1% Argon, and everything else is just a rounding error.

Oxygen and argon are heavier than nitrogen, so assuming you're scientifically rigorous enough to be comparing the weight at the same temperature and pressure there's no way pure nitrogen could weigh more than air.

To the best of my knowledge you don't have to run higher pressures with pure nitrogen than air but I could be wrong. If so, then I guess nitrogen-filled tyres will weigh more...but you'd have to be a bloody good driver to notice.

Yep your right, got it mixed up. Sorry, had 1 too many beers last night.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you got any references for that?

Air is just under 80% nitrogen, and 20% ozygen. You've got 1% Argon, and everything else is just a rounding error.

Oxygen and argon are heavier than nitrogen, so assuming you're scientifically rigorous enough to be comparing the weight at the same temperature and pressure there's no way pure nitrogen could weigh more than air.

To the best of my knowledge you don't have to run higher pressures with pure nitrogen than air but I could be wrong. If so, then I guess nitrogen-filled tyres will weigh more...but you'd have to be a bloody good driver to notice.

The 100% nitrogen filled tyres don't increase pressures as much as ambient air does when the tyres get hot. So they are more stable in their tyre pressures. My understanding is this is mostly due to the humidity (H2O) pressent in ambient air. Which, when it gets hot, breaks down into hydrogen and oxygen and increases the pressure accordingly.

So when they say "humidity is 40%", what does that mean to the 79.5/19.5/1 mixture? Does it become 47.5/11.5/1/40?

If so, that's why the pressure goes up so much if you have 40% of the contents of the tyre splittting into hydrogen and oxygen.

:rolleyes: cheers :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SK,

when they say that humidity is 40%, they are talking about 'relative humidity' (ie the moisture in the air as a percentage of the max moisture the air can hold)

Absolute humidity, which would be the moisture in the air, is much less (2-3% IIRC)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which, when it gets hot, breaks down into hydrogen and oxygen and increases the pressure accordingly.

I'm not sure what the activation energy of water is, but are you sure that there's enough heat in the tyres to do that kind of thing? The last time I hit the track my tyres only reached around 50 degrees on the surface of the rubber.

And what do you do afterwards? Anyone who's studied the history of airships knows how safe hydrogen and oxygen are when mixed together and heat is applied. Also, since gases occupy more volume per molar count than liquids, that would leave your tyres with a higher "at rest" air pressure afterwards. Of course, depending on the humidity in the tyre in the first place it may or may not be detectable with a commercially available gauge.

If that was enough to break down hydrogen and oxygen, boiling water in a semi-sealed environment (like a kettle) where the boiling water vapour is kept at 100 degrees+ before being vented to the atmosphere would probably get you killed if you smoked anywhere near it.

Once again this is pure speculation on my part (I wouldn't even call it a hypothesis since I'm not that up on chemistry), but it just seems like if there was enough heat in tyres to break water down to its base elements there would be a lot more cases of tyre blowouts during enduro races.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trust me, theres no way you'd be splittin H2O in your tires. :D)) (Drawing some vague knowledge from uni chem) H2O just wont spontaneously split in 2 on its own without some sort of chemical or metallic catalyst or current.

To put this into perspective, to get N2O (Nawwss) to split into nitrogen and oxygen spontaneously, it needs to be exposed in combustion chamber (1000C) for it to give you the O2 to give you the 'go'. Unfortunately even so, this aint the same with H2O. Tyres at 1000C anyone? Haha

Boiling water just means the water has changed from a liquid to a gaseous state. It doesnt mean the water is splitting up, or it wouldnt be water anymore would it? (Ie water vapour)

Edited by Busky2k
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The increased temperature just means the molecules will move about faster and with more energy, which equates to a rise in pressure. You are not actually spliting the H20. PV = MrT is the equation :D P = Pressure, V = Volume, M = Molecules, T = Temp. and r is a constant.

From my understanding having N2 filled tyres only makes pressure more predictable and less changing under temperature changes. I have seen you can get it for road tyres now but can't see the value. Particularly at $9 a corner...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

BTW for those saying its good for race cars not road cars, I think its the opposite.

Its great for your average car driver, set it once when you put the tyres on, and throughout the tyre's life it won't change by more than 1 or 2 psi (assuming no leaks). Perfect for set and forget and you always get optimal tyre performance

On a race track on the other hand, you can expect to need to change the tyre pressures most sessions, and that means you would have to take nitrogen with you. For track use pressures on the same car are affected by the direction of the track (clockwise or anti), track temp that day, and even fine tuning of the car's balance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got my tyres filled with nitrogen mainly because of what Duncan said:

Its great for your average car driver, set it once when you put the tyres on, and throughout the tyre's life it won't change by more than 1 or 2 psi (assuming no leaks). Perfect for set and forget and you always get optimal tyre performance
Link to comment
Share on other sites

But does it work? Have your pressures changed?

Could you please do a measure now and post what pressure you put in, what it is now and the time frame? I am currious to see if this actually works or not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Real world experiences;

I know that on a humid race day we have to bleed off more pressure in the tyres (as they heatup) than on a dry day. Note that is using a compressor with no water filter to pump up the tyres. I always put that down to more water vapour in the air. Not water itself.

I know that using air from a cylinder we still have to bleed off pressure in the tyres, just not as much as what we do out of the compressor. I always put that down to less (maybe even zero) water vapour in the cylinder.

I know that nitrogen filled tyres take even less bleeding off, I put that down to the lower expansion properties (due to heat) of the nitrogen versus air. ie oxygen (+ other gases) expands more when it is heated from ~20 degrees to ~70 degress. I don't know whether that is true or not, all I know is there is less expension from 100% nitrogen

:D cheers :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
    • I installed it all myself,  It was really easy to install.  I got a professional to do the degas/gas.
×
×
  • Create New...