Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For those who do have probs just check your soldering job. The tracks are very close in spots and thats necessary to keep the size of the unit down. Its very easy to short out a component if you are not careful. Use a magnifying glass to check the circuit board after its been built and clean the board after you have soldered the components with a small plastic brush to remove any metalic contaminants.

Hope thats of some help

Regards

Bov

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

may do another batch later on, but realistically that wouldnt be before feb (the boards themselves may take up to a month to get done)

would also want a bit more feedback on what would be good to improve if i was to. currently i have:

1. fix yellow led

2. make those 2 tight spaced components more room

3. more room so crystal can lay flat (look into low profile crystal)

4. look into 4024 14 pin counter (replace 4060 16 pin)

5. IC sockets rather than soldering into pcb (given pcb sits lower than i originally designed means theyll fit)

6. change pcb a bit where leds go to make it square (originally that cutout bit wasnt supposed to be cutout by pcb manufacturers)

7. dont use that stupid packaging tape as it leaves the boxes sticky!

8. finally, see how difficult it would be to put USB on same board

Edited by NewKleer

I kind of like how the LEDs poke through the screw holes for the Serial ports, but i also think its important to be able to lock the serial cables onto the unit. Since many of these will be mounted permanently there is a chance that they could vibrate loose without the DB9 connector screws...

its pretty difficult to put the nuts onto the connectors (ive not idea how ud do it without glueing them on, unless u just somehow use the existing holes where leds go thru as the nut). its pretty dam tight fit for the connectors to go together, so i dont think they fall off easily?

and the idea is that u disconnect the consult cable from the box when not using it (to cut power etc)

Chalk another one up for working first go.

Finally got a few hours free today to solder it up and test it out. Worked fine with all the software mentioned in the thread. FYI I didn't solder any of the pins in the consult connector. I just crimped them as they were designed to do. I actually found this to be the easiest part of the job.

Thanks for the kit NewKleer.

what did u use to crimp them? i dont have any crimping tools on hand (and i doubt most people would) but might be useful to get one if theres a cheap one that can do it

ive found 2 more kits all ready to go that i didnt think i had (might have 1 or 2 more after this also, but need to check parts).

Edited by NewKleer

ive gone ahead and designed a combined usb/serial version that potentially can be used as either serial, usb, or both (with jumpers changing whether its serial or usb), which improves on all the points i listed above (except not worrying about point 4).

only thing is if u want to have both usb and serial, to switch between them ud have to open the box (unless u drill a hole and maybe get those easy to change jumpers that have the extra plastic on it to make it longer so its easy to grab to remove, if anyone knows what i mean)

the usb chip is a smd one (surface mount) so i might have to solder it to the board for usb versions as i cant imagine it being too easy for most people to do with normal soldering iron.

Edited by NewKleer

will need to test circuit (mainly usb side) before boards are manufactured, and then do the construction guide etc, so realistically not till feb some time (and of course assuming theres nothing major goes wrong with any of it)

good to hear.

heres a few pics on the layout of the pcb for the usb/serial one. the 4 blocks in the middle (and one down bottom left) are the jumpers to switch between usb/serial. top right chip is usb which ill hopefully be able to solder to pcb. waiting on parts (1-2 weeks) before i can test circuit, then go ahead with board manufacture if all is good.

Edited by NewKleer
  • 2 weeks later...

still waiting on some parts to do some testing before i get boards done. however i might put this on hold while im working on the consult display which could, if i go overboard, include a usb/serial consult interface as part of it (if it does i might cancel this one). not sure that ill have the funds up front to do both at same time, so will have to see.

its definitely the priority over this given being something thats useful everyday (whereas the majority of people wont have a laptop permanently in the car)

Edited by NewKleer
  • 2 weeks later...

ive decided at this stage to put any further consult interface kits on hold indefinitely as i wont have time whilst working on the consult lcd display:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=102414

im planning to have it come with integrated serial and usb consult interfaces

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
×
×
  • Create New...