Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

never seen auto's on dyno. Why? Is there a tech reason? :D

I've got an Automatic (tiptronic) Skyline and set it on the dyno. No drama's about it

p.s only got auto cos it was hard to find manual with the 4 door R34

dont think they exist..

Ever seen a 2000hp drag car on the dyno - they usually make about 3/4 of that value. To much trans slip to give accurate readings not to mention changes in auto trans fluid temps(varying viscosity etc etc) not good for dyno comps or tuning at high levels of horsepower.

we had an auto r33 at the sau vic dyno day yesterday. was ran in 2nd gear as the auto juggles the power rating all over the place apparently when left in drive. the manuals are done in 4th gear so what power rating the auto gets i would say add %15 more power cos of the 2nd gear ratio? does that seem reasonable ?

You can run a car in any gear and it should give comparable horsepower readings. ie a manual R33 should give about the same power readings in 3 as it would in 4th within about 1-2% depending on the dyno operator. You must remember that dynos measure the rate of acceleration under a specified load and Horse power is a function of Torque and RPM so while lower gears will give a higher torque than a taller gear the RPM of the rollers is less in the lower gears than the higher gears.

Now dyno dynamics specify that their dyno's are accurate between about 80 -140km/hr. So the aim of the dyno operator is to choose a gear that will rev between these points.

Thanx 4 the replys everyone, very useful, Im asking really what i would have to do to get a high HP street car (auto) to be efficient on a dyno as well. Is there options for making an auto box perform well on the dyno? Shift kits etc. Any ideas?

nope. coz as soon as they ramp the power up it kicks back to 2nd anyways..unless u have it manualized.. they'll always do it in 2nd gear for the autos. .... and they seem to strap them down harder than teh manual cars.. coz apparently the auto (car itself) can jump on the dyno from time to time.

autos are the ghey... too much drivetrain loss thru slippage. .. thats just my personal opinion but.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...