Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Post up anything that u can know is a substitute / compatible with other models for either stock or upgrade parts. Including part numbers could also be helpful...

*LIST UPDATED 29/11/06*

IF ANYTHING SEEMS INCORRECT OR YOU HAVE SOMETHING TO ADD, POST IT UP!!!

- Aircon dryer condenser (i think thats wat it is) = maxima a32 (Resin)

- Alternator = R31 and VL Como, More info Click Here

- AFM upgrade = Z32 which is a direct fit, plus pinouts are the same (Huddy)

- Boss kit for 89 A31 Hicas model = s13 non hicas boss kit (skypy12)

- Brake Pads = Bendix Pads Code DB1485 from a j31 maxima 2003 model onward are the exact same pad as the rb20det cefiro (Resin)

- Brake Rotors 2 Pod Rear upgrade = 350z, discs need redrilling to a 4 stud (adrnln)

- Clutch Master Cylinder = R32

- Clutch pedal box = R32 Gtst works, however S13 is too short (QUIKBLADE)

- Coilovers = S13 although stiffer spring rate recommended due to heaver motor

- Coilpacks (cefiro rb20) = CA18/RB20-Redtop

- Cross Member Front = R32

- Dash upgrade/change = Laurel

- Diff = S13/R32 - either R180 & R200

- Door Hinges = R32

- Drift Handbrake Button = R32

- Drive Shafts = S13 / R32

- Front Seats upgrade/change = R32 /R33

- Front Spoiler Lip = S13 lip turned upside down, More info Click Here

- Front strut brace = A31 preferably, or 13 depending on clearance height

- Fuel lid spring = u12 pintara Nissan

- Gearbox / handbrake boots = r32gtst boots from jaycar with some possible modding. (someonestolecc)

- Gearbox = rb20gearbox / rb25gearbox(few other changes needed) More info Click Here

- Gearbox Crossmember = A31 Manual Gearbox cross member is the same as CA/SR Manual item.

A31 Auto Gearbox cross member is the same as R32 Manual item. (C_DawG) Disscusion Click Here

- Half Shafts = S13 / R32

- Handbrake Cable, Not footbrake - pretty sure you CANT use 32 gtst / 4 door? most nissan ones should fit theoretically - but in cefiro usually come up a little short (Huddy)

- Handbrake Shoes = R32 and possibly R33 and S14, Read more Click Here

- Intercooler = Any FMIC cooler will fit with enough cutting and shutting of the front bar... if talking about piping, the R32 piping needs to be cut slightly. EG: Pipe which goes across the front of the engine and then joined with a silicon pipe for example. R34 gtt stock sidemount intercooler is pretty much a straight swap into a ceffy. You use the ceffy bracket and cut of the piece for the snorkel off with a hacksaw. You also need to cut a section of of the splash guard cause it sits lower than the stock one.

The ceffy sidemount set up is very similar to the r33 and r34 not r32 (Resin)

Stock Front Bar pics with FMIC install - Click Here

- LSD Diff = S13 / R32 = R200, or if you got a single spinner, the R180 from both the non turbo s13 and r32 would also fit.

- Oil Filter - Click Here

- Power window mechanisms = R32 4 door (although been suggested that doesn't work for the rear, Reference ) however power window amplifier for the rear windows that does work is

nissan part number # 25424-71L00 (drivers side)

- Power Window Relay = bluebird ones fit straight up (not sure what year model... its the one with the SSS variant) (insanity)

- R33gtst gearbox upgrade speedo adapter = R33gtst item ~ $50 second hand or Nissan Nivara speedo drive, for ~$22 brand new from nissan. And the red speedo gear that comes off the R33 speedo drive. Put them together walla, working speedo. (dangerous_daveo) Click Here for details on RB25 Gearbox upgrade to Ceffy

- Radiator = R32 gtst and gtr, The radiator for the A31 20DET isn't same as R32 20DET, though they are direct swap (Something like A31 uses single core and R32 is twin core??). CA S13 also fits, but that would be a downgrade, might get you out of a tight spot if you are stuck on the side of the highway or something?

R33 GTST rad+shroud (bigger than R32) fits into A31 but will not fit into S13 (fouls on bonnet). Have to make new top brackets for R33 rad. (daisu)

- RB25DET Engine Upgrade - Click Here

- Radius rods, lower arms = S13

- Rear Cradle = R32

- Rear strut brace = r32 / s13

- Seat Belts = R32, and Pre 1997 A32 maxima (after that they came with pretensioners).

- Seats = R32 and R33 do fit however for S13 seats, modifications are needed.

- Speedo cable = R32 / VL commodore

- Sunroof -> S13 sunroof = NO... not 100% sure but from what i've seen they have different mounting points etc and possibly different size...(Huddy)

- Swaybar, bracket, bushes, bolts, links = S13, R32 GTR swaybars also fit. (ls1ben)

- Stereo Wiring - for diagram Click Here for PDF file

- Tie rod ends= s13, r32, r33, A32 maxima (More info Click Here )

- Upgrade 4 pot brakes with 4 stud = R32 gtst calipers with R33 non turbo disks and R32 master cylinder , just need to get appropriate brake lines and cut the disc shroud a little and you have budget big front brakes (Huddy)

- Upgrate 5 stud = R32/300zx/S14 hubs

- Water Pump = Rb30/VL Commodore

- Wheels / Offsets - Click Here or Here Also

- Steering box = 180sx

- Rack and pinion = 180sx

Please note if you can't find something in this list it may be found over at D1NZ which also has alot of A31 info.

Edited by skypy12
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93523-a31-cefiro-parts-list/
Share on other sites

Tie rods ends are the same as a A32 maxima.

Seat belts are the same as R32, and Pre 1997 A32 maxima (after that they came with pretensioners).

Power window mechanisms are the same as R32 4 door.

Does anyone know what rear discs can be used on an A31? As the skylines have drum/disc combination brakes, which I don't think the ceffy's got.

also... if doing a 33gtst gearbox conversion Kansai automotive have the adapters so that you can get the speedo working... (32 cable and 33 not cable or something)

:D

Thats easy, Nissan Nivara speedo drive, for $22 brand new from nissan. And the red speedo gear that comes off the R33 speedo drive. Put them together walla, working speedo.

Does anyone know what rear discs can be used on an A31? As the skylines have drum/disc combination brakes, which I don't think the ceffy's got.

Sorry don't know the discs, i upgraded all mine to r32 stuff.

mine cefiro had drum/disc combination for the rears when i got it. though i have spoken to another guy and he had a different setup on his. Mine originally came from factory as a rb20de, so maybe the rb20det versions had a different setup.

- Front Seats upgrade/change = R32 /R33

- Upgrate 5 stud = R32/300zx/S14 hubs

Does this mean GTR or GTS-T seats? Or both? So they are straight fit to existing rails??

Also, R32 Brembos as found on V-Spec or GTS-T once again?? And does this mean both front and rear calipers and rotors can be changed with the 5 stud hub?

Edited by QUIKBLADE

when i bought my car it didnt have a spring in the fuel lid so when u pulled the lever the door wouldnt open. Well i tested the spring out of my old car (u12 pintara nissan) and its fits exactly dunno whether its the same for all nissans but yea if ur spinng in ur fuel lid ever brakes or u loose it u know where to get one from

Edited by Resin
Does this mean GTR or GTS-T seats? Or both? So they are straight fit to existing rails??

Also, R32 Brembos as found on V-Spec or GTS-T once again?? And does this mean both front and rear calipers and rotors can be changed with the 5 stud hub?

sorry i don't personally know with the seats. But i know the standard r32 gtst front and rear calipers and rotors bold and line straight up on the cefiro with the 5 stud hub. Only issue from memory was either the front or the rear had to have one of the brake line ends modified. If the bembos generally bolt up on a r32 which normally has standard brakes then i'm sure the vpec ones would too on the cefiro.

Edited by skypy12
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...