Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, the nut on the bolt that goes thru the bottom of a r32 gts rear coilover has completley stripped itself in our attempt to crack it. nothing has worked so far

anyone know how to get it off without destroying the bolt?

Or if you have to destroy the bolt anyone know how much they are from nissan??

Cheers

(working on it at the moment so quick replys extra appreciated!!)

already tried a search too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93781-stripped-nut/
Share on other sites

tried multi-grips couldnt get it to budge, its needing more force to crack it than i can generate with them, and its not just me being weak :)

also soaked it in wd40 prior to all of this

havent tried vice-grips but i reckon its just gonna strip more metal off the nut :P

edit: 66 skyline, that thought crossed my mind didnt know if it was possible, i will give it a go

Edited by lang
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93781-stripped-nut/#findComment-1693480
Share on other sites

angle grinder straight through the nut and bolt will get it very removed, or if you are very patient hacksaw

I had a similar problem with a rear lower bolt on a gtr, cost a fortune to get a new one from Nissan but I found one second hand thru the forums instead :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93781-stripped-nut/#findComment-1693487
Share on other sites

Nest time use a single hex socket and a decent rattle gun. You will have no problems then. In the meantime you have two options,

1: Heat the nut with an oxy until the nut is red hot, then undo as normal.

or 2: Wind on another nut of the same type until they meet. Weld the two together with a mig and try again.

Also the hacksaw idea is a good one. Just carefully cut at an angle through the nut on opposite sides, this will sufficiently weaken its grip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93781-stripped-nut/#findComment-1694001
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...