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[updated!] Need Help! - Dash Symbols For The R34

Viscount

By Viscount,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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MissR34 Grand Master

MissR34

Posted
Posted

Hey dude have you got your car working properly again?

all the probs you mention i pretty much had the same trouble. couldnt work out what it was to begin with, took her down to my mechanic (i have two!!) - who deals with performance cars all the time and he went through every possiblity of what could be going wrong, wiring, ecu , sparkies................coilpack....showing a greater heat resistance than the others.

and then about a couple of months later another one dropped on me....i knew exaclty what it was, cause it was doing exactly what happenend last time = not paying another 195 bucks for a coilpack - SPLITFIRES! a skyline's best friend!!!! no drama since.

i had lost 3 coilpacks in 6 months. :cool:

smurf80 Experienced

smurf80

Posted
Posted
My r34 gt got the same problem. Last time when i had it checked at the mechanic (some imports experts as they said), they told me my car had ECU problem after check it with their computer (they said drive strain problems, I think) and change the spark plugs. Since it's a tiptronic non-turbo, they told me it is nearly impossible to find new ECU or aftermarket ones. They told me I have to find a half cuts or just take out the engine check light and sell it. By the way, anyone knows any trust worthy mechanics around Melbourne that can handle this job? I very appreciate if anyone let me know so I can fix my car instead of selling it. This problem is killing me for months.

Its most probably coils mate as every nissan owner goes through. (seems to happen in R34's more though) The mechanic doesnt know shite and sounds dodgy to me with his solution to your problem. READ- Never go there again!

Take it to another mechanic get them to read the error code your car is coming up with and fix the problem. If its making all the same symptoms as been stated here its almost 100% coilpacks. $650 later and your new splitfires will have solved the problem.

  • Like 1
MissR34 Grand Master

MissR34

Posted
Posted

PM sent...

i would be defintelty going and getting you car hooked up to a diagnostics computer.....this will bring up error codes. every time your engine light comes up the ecu will record the error code in its little memory thingo. when you hook it up it will come up with the code itself, and when the last time the engine light came on.

but seriously get those splitfires. saves a lot of $$$$ in the end :D

like i said before i lost 3 in 6 months. and at nearly $200 each, its so much cheaper in the long run,

when i out mine in the car ran a little too rich for a little while, but i think that was more or less that car going "OMFG!!!!!!!! these feel good!!!"" (i gained 7 kW out of them :( ) but all good now!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • 9 months later...
CDA Enthusiast

CDA

Posted
Posted

lol i get the same problem!!! i thought it was my catalytic converter coz everytime i got the symbol, my car shudders, and the exhaust sounds hideous for a while before it gets back to normal. also, i hear a rattling/tinny sound which i believe has somethin to do with some part of the exhaust (cat). gonna take it to mechanic on monday and i'll let you all know what i find out lol.

Alex G Enthusiast

Alex G

Posted
Posted
lol i get the same problem!!! i thought it was my catalytic converter coz everytime i got the symbol, my car shudders, and the exhaust sounds hideous for a while before it gets back to normal. also, i hear a rattling/tinny sound which i believe has somethin to do with some part of the exhaust (cat). gonna take it to mechanic on monday and i'll let you all know what i find out lol.

bump

DiNoBoNeS Community Regular

DiNoBoNeS

Posted
Posted

My 34 she is have a hard time to as soon as it shows up it just sounds all so shitting the idle all messed up. can i still drive it or do i take it in to look at right away?

with out driving her...

CDA Enthusiast

CDA

Posted
Posted

OK, So I drove mine last night and no issue for the first 2 drives. But after 15min on my last drive, it came up. This time the symbol came up when I gave it gas after stopping at a red light... and then I let go of the accelerator, it sounded shit for 2 seconds, then I gave it gas again and then it sounded fine... but the symbol remained

Bloody annoying

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

It's a simple fact, you buy an R34, you need to buy splitifres to never have this problem crop up. I'd say over 50% of R34's have this issue. It was so annoying the second I bought my second R34 I just changed them so I'd never get the problem in the first place.

Also LOL @ the mechanic mentioned above, the amount of times I've seen them say "get a new ECU" as they don't know dick about R34's

CDA Enthusiast

CDA

Posted
Posted (edited)

just double checking with you guys, before i get some splitfires, its the SF-DIS-008 model right? for R34 n/a sedans with rb25de?

also, where can buy them in SYDNEY (ive seen nengun.com sell it for around 500 dollars... but they don't do installation... anyone noe how much it mite cost to install?... and where?)

THANKS

Edited by CDA
Alex G Enthusiast

Alex G

Posted
Posted (edited)
just double checking with you guys, before i get some splitfires, its the SF-DIS-008 model right? for R34 n/a sedans with rb25de?

also, where can buy them in SYDNEY (ive seen nengun.com sell it for around 500 dollars... but they don't do installation... anyone noe how much it mite cost to install?... and where?)

THANKS

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...ks-t192015.html

^^^very good step by step guide link to doin it yourself and save yoursefla few $$

also since i had the same problem as you i changed my coilpacks along with my new park plugs and the car's fine now :glare: also bought my coilpacks off ebay. ($500)

cheers

Edited by Alex G
CDA Enthusiast

CDA

Posted
Posted

Croydon racing developments have em for $495 and they charge $95 for installation... I'm just REALLY WORRIED becoz its a lot of money to be spending and... what if it doesn't solve the problem... :ermm:

CDA Enthusiast

CDA

Posted
Posted

OH MY GOD LOL

I got the dudes at CRD to run a diagnostics check on my ECU, and they found that it was indeed an ignition problem. They said it was either the coil packs or something called the "crank angle sensor". I couldn't be happier, I can actually FEEL the difference with the splitfires, the whole car just seems so much more vigorous!!!! lol!

ONE PROBLEM HOWEVER: they quoted me 495 + 95 labour for the splitfires, but they assumed that the RB25DE was in a similar configuration to the RB25DET, it turns out though that the N/A engine has TWO THROTTLE BODIES - WTFWTFWTF WHO KNEW THIS - compared to the Turbo which has only one, and this made the whole process twice as long, they took two hours to do it instead of 1, and had to charge me extra for the labour, and coz i got them to run the diagnostics check as well, it totalled to something around $730!!! - But I tell ya what, its SOO worth it.

SplitFire Coil Packs SF-DIS-008 = $495

2 Hours labour + diagnostics check and ECU reset = $235

damn, not only R34 owners, but EVERYONE should buy a set of these.

p.s. i felt so ridiculous rocking up there with a 4-door N/A skyline, when all the other cars you see there are r32/33 GTR's and 200sx s15's fark....

scotty014 Veteran

scotty014

Posted
Posted

when i was going to change mine i decided to get an expert to do it because you had to remove the exhaust manifold and heaps of other crap compared to the turbo ones. but he changed them and i bought new ngk iridium spark plugs as well to put in and it runs way better.

  • 2 weeks later...
missusR34GT Collaborator

missusR34GT

Posted
Posted
lol yeh they had almost my whole engine bay removed lol

Wow... you know you really have to be careful around some mechanics..

As soon as they figure out that you don't know much about cars they'll throw in a whole bunch of sh*t you don't need. They'll start throwing all this info and technical jargon at you to confuse you, then do some work take your money and say whoops wasn't that.. lets try again.. take more money.. and before you now it you've spent $2000 when you should've only spent $500...

You should look at really getting to know your car and it's components.. take the engine apart one weekend or when time permits. Read your car manual.

I'm not sure about the other skylines but the R34 has a fail-safe and backup for when the car sh*ts itself.

If any of the major parts of the Engine Control System fails ie. Any of the major sensors such as Engine coolant temp, mass air flow sensor etc. then the fail safe estimates the conditions the car is driven under and the back up regulates certain parts of the engine so that it can still be driven normally.

There's a useful table in your car manual (The Symptom Matrix Chart) which shows the relationship between the controls and the sensors/actuators so you can see what's actually causing the problems..

Or like MissR34 said.. get it hooked upto a diagnostics computer.. you can also trouble shoot it yourself if you have a CONSULT (a small blackberry palm pilot-looking device) .. and that will tell you what's going on. They come with a manual and you can test each part of the Engine Control and Emission System. It hooks up to a wire located on the driver's side.

Thats all I know really.. but yeh watch out for dodgey mechs...

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