Jump to content
SAU Community

what would you rather own? an all wheel drive or a rear wheel drive?  

48 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

spose its probably just down to wether or not you like drift or drag...

but oh well, just interested :cheers:

sorry. replace the "front wheel" with "all wheel".... im such a dick....

Edited by rice_me_up
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/93915-rear-wheel-drive-vs-all-wheel-drive/
Share on other sites

I'd take an asymmetric AWD any day. Rear biased if it can't be completely adaptive.

Ideally I'd want an Evolution style drivetrain (with full active diffs), but I'd take a GT-R style ATTESSA over the front-biased Euro econobox stuff, or the symmetric Subaru gear.

I prefer grip to drift, so I put down AWD. But that preference is very slight. I would prefer a well set up sophisticated and balanced RWD like an FD RX7 to a simple, mediocore AWD like an Audi A4 (understeer, understeer, understeer...).

WRX's have that symmetrical AWD system is it?

any one have any technical info about that (i dont want to be told to go to a wrx forum)

sometimes the 4wd system on the GT-Rs dont hook up especially if you turn the engine off while the car is rolling

WRX's have that symmetrical AWD system is it? 

any one have any technical info about that (i dont want to be told to go to a wrx forum)

sometimes the 4wd system on the GT-Rs dont hook up especially if you turn the engine off while the car is rolling

Um... In what situation would someone turn off the car while you are still rolling? :D

i'd prefer RWD, it doesn't give you mid-corner understeer (with the exception of maybe an EVO...). you can also launch a RWD fairly hard too, i've smashed WRX's of at lights, just depends on how you use your right foot.......

Edited by Frink
I prefer grip to drift, so I put down AWD.  But that preference is very slight.

RWD cars don't necessarily have to be less "grip" oriented than AWD cars (I assume you mean tarmac racing). AWD is only really useful if you have a surfeit of power, or you're dealing with low grip conditions. Otherwise, the extra weight and its location, plus a loss of steering feel, can be a detriment to handling with no real traction benefits.

For example, my car has more grip than power. On the track in the dry, I can pretty much punch out of a lot of 2nd gear corners and every 3rd gear corner burying the throttle as soon as I touch it. I don't have to ease it in - I can just mash it. That's on street tyres. On semis, those second gear corners are flat stick too.

So for me, a 4WD drivetrain would be near useless. I'd lose some of my steering feel, gain some torque steer, and add another 50kg+ (mostly to the front of my already front heavy car)....but I'd see no benefits in traction. I could compensate by replacing the final drives, but then I'd lose time from the constant gearshifts.

WRX's have that symmetrical AWD system is it? 

any one have any technical info about that (i dont want to be told to go to a wrx forum)

What info were you after?

I don't know everything there is to know about the Impreza AWD system, but I do know that it runs 3 mechanical diffs. The centre is a LSD, and the front is an open diff on all WRXs and early STi's. Not entirely sure about the rear on the entry models. I know the STi's have alreays run rear LSDs though.

Edited by scathing

Since I have both 4wd (Stagea) and 2wd (R32GTST) I had trouble with the simplistic voting.

I would have 4wd for the road, because it rains.

I would have 2wd for the track, because 4wd costs too much, lots of extra weight (150 kgs) to overcome, bigger brakes to stop the extra weight. more power for the same power to weight ratio etc etc

:) cheers :)

Yup, the AWD of my Stagea kicks the arse of my VR SS V8 Commodore. Thats with both cars being roughly the same power and weight......

Total confidence with the AWD of the Stagea, whereas with the RWD of the VR SS you're just waiting for it to 'bite back'.

Go the Stags!!!! :D

Brenda

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...