Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am keen to get the R33 into the 12's now, so I thought I'd detail my plan of attack. Just so people can track my success and failure as I mod down the path.

The objective is to get into the 12's with the stock turbo and intercooler without huge boost (hopefully 10psi or a snick over) and retaining stock or better fuel ecconomy and without sacrificing road manners. The factory ecu will be retained with just the S-afc.

Plan A.

* tune the Apexi S-afc II for additional horsepower and broaden the power band.

Plan B.

* add a HKS adjustable cam gear to the exhaust side at 4degrees retard. And retune the S-afc again. Set to bring boost on quicker not peak power.

Plan C.

* Change factory pulleys over to lightweight and slightly underdriven alloy ones. Just like the light flywheel, rev..rev..rev..

Plan D.

* Remove the fluid clutch style engine fan and replace with thermo fan.Removes drag and weight from the pulley, as above.

Plan E.

* Buy wider tyres for the rear. Aw do I have too?

Plan F.

* Use toluene. I use this when I get bored anyway, but I'll tune an S-afc map for it.

Each plan I will try to impliment with sepparate drives down the 1/4, to demonstrate the relative effects. However I will only proceed to the next mod if I don't reach 12.99, then again I probably can't help myself:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9445-project-12sec-r33-gtst-daily-driver/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a good plan, it will be a close call but you might be able to do it, will be interesting to see which of these has a noticable effect.

I'll come and watch you run at the plex, try and learn some driving tips.

See'ya:burnout:

  • Like 1

benm,

Maybe I'll do some dyno runs, if I really need to. Like the S-afc/cam gear. Otherwise its just a waste of money.

Gtst-vspec,

All the mods on that list I know work, exept for the cam gear, because I have used them on other vehicles. Most don't yeild very much power but improve response and together they should add up to quite a punch in accelleration. How much will I need to get into 12's will be the interesting part.

rob77,

The e-manage is much better but I was not prepared to go through the whole 'tuning' thing since I am probably selling the car shortly. Also the knock sensor and 15sec log sold me along with the price. I'd say the emanage will make more power for sure.

akeenan,

tax deductions...it's used for work.

I have had the car for almost 3 years now so I need to get a new one so I can claim more depreciation. I've been 6 months in decision land trying to think of the car to get as a replacement.

In the mean time while I can't make up my mind I do little things to make it quicker and more efficient.

benm,

The mods do these things:

S-afc tune -- increase horsepower (through a leaner A/F ratio)

HKS adjustable cam pulley --- increase torque and power by changing the camshaft timing.

Light Aftermarket pulleys --- by reducing the weight you decrease the time taken for the engine to achieve any rev, also by running 15% underdriven pulley ratio from stock you decrease the drag created which restores some HP lost to that drag.

Changing to a thermo fan --- as above for the drag aspect.

Wider tyres --- more grip, less wheelspin--- better time.

Toluene --- a fuel additive that increases the octane in your fuel/ increases the pinging threshold so can run more timing it also adds power by virtue of its higher engery content. More HP!

Interesting thanks for that. Im still learning about PowerFC's, PineApples, AirBoxes and all those little parts first.

I guess their is a sh1tload of mods that can be done -before- needing to upgrade the turbo to get small benefits, sweet.

Originally posted by rev210

Jay95R33,

Man can you change the kermit avitar, it's a little disturbing....

LOL - I think it's time for a change anyway :D

I'll see what I can come up with :P

BTW: I'm doing a thermo fan install on mine this weekend (if I can get off my butt), it's half in ATM (thermostat and wiring), just have to put the fan on.

I'll let you know how it goes and if it makes a difference.

J

I grabbed a second hand 16 inch Davies Craig fan for $150, and bought the thermostat switch and relay stuff from Supa Cheap for $70.

The 16 incher flows up to 2200cfm !!!!!

Masive difference from the 12 inch which can do about 950cfm, and the 10 does something like 700cfm.

My clutch fan is getting squeeky, plus when you look at it when at idle it has a wooble to it..... The wobble can't be a good thing for balance and drag, so I thought I get rid of it before it stuffs the water pump or something..

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...