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Thanks benm.

Not really a smart guy, just did everything the hard way before and have learnt not to make the same mistakes twice...er five times.

It's probably less %'s than just tick the boxes.

Dave's three D's.

Driver ---- Bad smelling thrasher of gearboxes

Drivetrain ---- Everything from mota to tyres

Dragstrip ---- Oh automatic fluid...I thought it was VHT..

Guest Ellwood

rev210, Can you please tell me how you would configure your car to make it a good daily driver with good power at lower boost levels, and some economy? I am building up an RB25DET R33 car, but I just want to put it together and drive it without messing with it. Can you guys help me out? Thank you

My non-technical tips would be to drive on stock boost (7psi) and smooth gear changes at around 2800rpm.

If you can hear the POD filter sucking in the air (my hks makes this noise) then you are accellerating too hard.

Ellwood,

It's a pretty simple formula. The start of this thread has an outline of my plan that would suit you very well. The only thing you might like to add is a highflow(nothing too big) rebuilt turbo and a correctly sized intercooler to suit. A larger fuel pump and malpassi fuel reg.

Then again just doing the stuff I have will make the car a great daily driver, cause I do 35,000+kms worth of daily driving a year.

Hickups with the HKS gear.

I have finally ironed out some of the ping bugs from the HKS gear.

I wound up with less timing and having to actually 'add' extra fuel in the upper part of the rev range.

I am not sure if there is a greater benifit running less fuel and less timing but, I'll leave that to the guy I get to do a quick dyno tune of the Apexi.

I have NGK 6ES plugs in at the moment with 0.7mm gap, I am thinking of running a 7ES with a larger 0.9 or 1.1mm gap to see if I can recover some of the lost timing. Anyone got an opinion on this?

Rev,

Regardless of heat range - open that gap back up to 1.0-1.1mm & I'll give you a 90% likelyhood of misfiring within 2 days! I've been down this road & in the end it's better to go with 0.85-0.90mm max than have to pull plugs all the time.

Try 1.1mm anyway mate, not like it's hard to gap down again if need be.

7's is a v/good idea though.

giz01,

On his website he states a best of 13.4 with avgas & toluene,big street tryes and 14psi of boost. Not bad for an Auto.

Whatisname,

The misfire thing has to do with fouled plugs or burnt electrodes.

Fouled plugs --- too cold a range (not enough revs) , too rich a mixture , to small plug gap.

Burnt electrode --- too hot a range (too much rpm/ combustion pressure) , too lean a mixture , to large a plug gap.

The advantage of a bigger plug gap is a nice big spark. Big spark is better. Little plug gaps are a compromise 0.6 or the 0.7 I'm running is a tad on the small side but, necessary on a hotter plug.

The colder plugs are better at high rpm work but, as a compromise are not happy at lower revs due to lower combustion chamber temps.

The ideal is to raise exhaust/combustion temps in the lower part of the rev range as best you can. The temperature often relates to power generated anyway so more torque is a good thing.

The ceramic coating of piston tops and combustion chambers would be an example. I believe that the thermal insulation of the exhaust and turbo manifold help a little as well. The use of nitrous oxide also raises combustion temps (note not intake temps) and it is common practice to run a colder plug or so from memory.

This is all Dave speculation tho'.

giz01,

Well I guess he ended up pretty happy with 9's? in the end. I still reckon the 13.4 on a standard automatic is fab, I don't think he even had a high stall.

Overall I reckon what he did helps inspire more guys to have a go with automatic transmitions.

What can i say, it's so refreshing to see guys looking outside the square at getting good times. It's soo...done, that guys ride around with aftermarket jap suspension, big fmic's, plenty of boost with 18 inch wheels and wonder why they're getting struggling to get low 14's.

Rev,

Yep mate knew all that. I still think you'll could run into misfires if you open the gap to 1.0-1.1mm with your engine set-up as is. Hmmmm? Hang on! Now I look @ your low boost (10psi) you probably shouldn't have needed to gap down at all.

One more thing to add to the list of misfire causes - increased cylinder pressure or blowing the flame out. Fouled plugs (even just slightly) & a large plug gap will cause misfires very quickly. Even moreso if the cylinder pressures are getting up there, ie. increased boost levels.

rev, ive got a safc 2 as well, do u tune it at all without putting it on a dyno???

i dont wanna muck around with it in case i stuff it up. do u know how to adjust it??

the instructions are all in jap

Originally posted by rev210

I am keen to get the R33 into the 12's now, so I thought I'd detail my plan of attack. Just  so people can track my success and failure as I mod down the path.

The objective is to get into the 12's with the stock turbo and intercooler without huge boost (hopefully 10psi or a snick over) and retaining stock or better fuel ecconomy and without sacrificing road manners. The factory ecu will be retained with just the S-afc.

Plan A.

* tune the Apexi S-afc II for additional horsepower and broaden the power band.

Plan B.

* add a HKS adjustable cam gear to the exhaust side at 4degrees retard. And retune the S-afc again.  

Plan A & B complete.

missed the ones on today. Its a shame because they do a proper track prep, unlike the wednesday nights I normally go to.

The extra traction would have been nice.

I'll try to get down to a meeting before my trip to SA & NT in april.

  • 2 weeks later...

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