Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

190rwkw is very different to 250rwkw+

Mainly because the size of the turbo required to achieve the larger numbers makes power delivery a lot more sudden, which isn't conducive to traction...

You also get a LOT more torque, which just seems to want to fry tyres...

I was wondering about the extra weight thing actually. For my run a few weeks back I chucked the spare (but kept maybe 20kg of my tools in the back :), but I was thinking a bit of extra weight in the back was probably not a bad thing to get the traction to the ground.

I mean I could chuck all my door skins, back seat, and whatever else i could find off and maybe save 100kg - wondering whether that would be a help or a hinderance in a skyline.. guess it wouldn't be "street trim" then really would it.

Guys: Would i get better traction with my stockie Simex 225/50R16's (95% tread) or current Falken RE326's - 235/45R17s (95% tread) on the rears??.. they have same rolling diameter.. Would the Simex let down to say 18psi be a better option due to greater sidewall flex?

I think my car can get a possible 13.5 but i'm not sure.. i really got wrap all that piping to stop heatsoak and some slight pinging i get once she warms up ;)

well i will be taking my car soon out to willowbank and hopefully i'l do a 12second pass, in its current tune its made 360rwhp @ 18psi, boost kicks in hard at 5000rpm and revs to 7500rpm... just not sure how the st tyres will hold up as it wheel spins 1st 2nd 3rd on the st with 18x285x40

gord... go the simex and let them down to 18-20 like you said.

you'll be laughing.

your car sohuld get mid 13's easily.

RNS-11Z - your car should run just that 11's!

not 12's. your making nearly double what i've got and my car is good for a 13.5 with fuel pump

Originally posted by RNS-11Z

its made 360rwhp @ 18psi, boost kicks in hard at 5000rpm and revs to 7500rpm

Don't shoot me but isn't that just completely dumb? By the time you hit boost your already 1/2 track, then you finally hit it and spend the next 2 gears in wheelspin.

/rove

What tha??

/rove

well benn its made a maximum of 566.7rwhp on 38psi it now has been detuned to 18psi and rev limit set to 7500rpm though it can be reved past that with ease. so in actual fact no i dont think its dumb. the car wasnt built for low end power or circuit racing it was built for 1/4mile racing and top end power

Originally posted by RNS-11Z

well i will be taking my car soon out to willowbank and hopefully i'l do a 12second pass, in its current tune its made 360rwhp @ 18psi, boost kicks in hard at 5000rpm and revs to 7500rpm... just not sure how the st tyres will hold up as it wheel spins 1st 2nd 3rd on the st with 18x285x40

Why has it been detuned so much? That's ridiculous.

At less boost, mine makes more power, and comes on hard at 4000rpm and redline set at 8000rpm.

With a turbo like that, with such a useless powerband for anything but drag racing, you'd better turn the boost back up and make use of that 2500rpm "happy zone"...

Also, going by this website: http://www.rigoliracing.com.au/r33gts-t.html

It still has stock rods, so I can't see you raising the revlimiter too much more past 7500rpm, perhaps 8000rpm. I wouldn't say "rev limit set to 7500rpm though it can be reved past that with ease" at all. 7500 is already past stock redline for those conrods.

With that peak power figure, you *should* be good for high 11s, but I'm predicting a mid-high 12 on street tyres.

well not all the mods are listed on the site + i de-boosted it because the car will be driven alot, almost every day, i also set the rev limiter for the same reason as i dont need to rev it past 7500. also the car wasnt built for 300rwkw it was built for 600rwhp and for 1/4mile racing. yes if i put a smaller turbo on it and aim for 300rwkw i will be getting boost earlier and for alot alonger and thats why you probably make more power then me on less boost. how ever i will be doing some changes on it aswell still yet to come

ok well back to my car's journey to 12's.

I ranit on the SST dyno today to see what the heck was going on with the ping thing and we got 230rwhp at about 4700rpm,the afr was high 9 and there was very little timing on it.

suspect 1 cylinder is to blame for ping due to the ultra rich afr. I'll have to get the injectors cleaned and try again. Doh!

mine pings after heavy use due to suspected heat soak from my piping before combustion (well that is what my tuner said :D )...you got it all wrapped? ..i assume u probably have already but worth a mention.

Predator666,

the issue is with one or two pots running lean. I'll know when I take the plugs out tonight. The afr I have heat soak or not is not going to allow pinging. The Timing is also very conservative.

My pipes intake and exhaust were well wrapped ages ago. Thanks for the input tho' :D

Guest GTBO5S

i put a 16 inch davies craig thermo on my skyline. it fits nice in the original shroud and looks neat. the original shroud also assists in pulling more air through the whole radiator, not just the 16" face of the fan. i mounted it on some blocks to raise it off the radiator about 1cm so it can drag air from more of the radiator surface. i used some special zip tie things that poke through the core to the other side and secure with a washer on the other side. works well. good luck with yours

Hey Matt, can you give me a bit of info on the new clutch?

My one decided it'd had enough last night (ran at heathcote) and forced me to stop running earlier on into the night.

I ended up with a 12.38 @ 123.45mph with a 60 ft of 2.35secs. I wasn't able to boot it till 3rd gear which was holding back my times too.

matt

Originally posted by whatsisname

Thanks for the feedback guys - very handy!

Andrew,

             My car has the same power delivery as yours & R31Nismoid’s.  

As you said, it's very tricky to launch. I've had the same problems. Dump @ 3-3.5k & it bogs down. Dump @ 4.5+k & it hooks up for a sec, then blazes the tyres. I've yet to be able to do the, "clutch slip feed power on launch", as the old clutch gave up the ghost at the slightest hint of me slipping it :P  The new clutch is up to the task no prob. Just need to practice on the strip now.      

   

Yeah I knew the 540's weren't the greatest drag rubber (stiffest sidewall R compound there is!). I got them as they're well priced over here in Adelaide (paid $280 - 235/45/17 & $310 - 255/40/17) & they're great on the street.      

I've got a contact for 555R's - $425 for 275/40/17

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...