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  • 2 months later...

All things going right i am going to run a low 13 in my gf's S14 with ecu remap, 3"CES exhaust,pod filter&partion, 15psi boost,optimax or ultimate with octane booster!

Has run 13.75@102@willowbank (exhaust,pod&boost) but i am going to try retread slicks, ecu remap &tiny bit more boost plus it's auto!

4doorz from Queensland just ran a 12 in his black 4dr R33. It was a [email protected] with a 2.045 60ft time. Quite impressive considering the limited mods. Mods include FMIC, full 3in exhaust, Power FC, Pod filter with cold air box, 235/40 R18 Federal tyres at 25psi, DIY boost controller, Heavy Duty clutch. The rest is reportedly stock. Not a bad effort. I saw him run a 13.2 on the Wed night test and tune at Willowbank, then on the Saturday Test'n'Tune broke into the 12s. Not a bad effort. Not sure what boost he was running, he did tell me just can't remember.

Also ran [email protected], 1.988 60ft on the Saturday aswell.

I think a good result on such limited mods.

Geez the sau 1/4 times are a little slow! I would have though that with all the people on here someone would be doing a 11!

Don't get me wrong my sx only runs 13.75 but it's got stuff all mods. I mean I thought skylines were fast?? My mates auto 300zx with less mods than others in the list would be no3 on that list plus he ran more mph(116.5mph) with std turbos, std i/c's, std ecu other than speed cut removed & rev limiter 500rpm higher, 245/16 falken tyres grb & a few minor other mods. And this is in a heavy, unreliable, overheating piece of junk 300ZXTT !!!

Originally posted by giz01

I would have though that with all the people on here someone would be doing a 11!

You will find that their are alot more people in the 12's just that not everyone is aware of the thread or has PM'd me there details.

Also I think their is only 1 GTR that has his time posted. With afew more R's the times will drop into the 11-12's.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, a few have asked questions, which I will try and answer....

When we go to the circuit I stick on a set of R tyres, Yoko A0323R's to be precise. While I have the car jacked up to change the wheels over, I crank on 1.5 degrees more negative camber (total 2.5 degrees) on the front. I also add 1.5 degrees to the rear (total 1.5 degrees). We use the Whiteline camber adjusting bushes for this, real easy.

The stabiliser bars are also adjustable, we run full soft on the rear for drags and the middle setting for circuit. Front we don't change much, unless the circuit is slippery raining or super grippy. So we basically tune the balance (oversteer/understeer) with the front bar. This is done while the car is jacket up changing the wheels. We use the Whiteline blade adjustable stabilisers bars for this, real easy.

Our shocks have adjustable bump and rebound rates, so all I do is add a bit more bump on the rear shock for the circuit. Rear rebound rate stays the same for drag or circuit as does the front bump and rebound. You guessed it we do this while it is jacked up as well.

I used to change the rear springs to harder ones for the circuit, but once we got over 600 bhp the softer (drag springs) power down better (less oversteer) and the shocks take care of the rest.

If we want to drift, I just whack the rear stabiliser bar on full hard, don't add any rear neg camber and back the front bar off to full soft and it slides like a 180.

I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it only takes a couple of minutes extra per wheel over compared to just changing the tyres. Jacking it up and removing the wheels is always the hard work, shame not to do more while it is up there.

Hope that adds to the thread and answered a few questions.

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