Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

take out the spare wheel, rip out the plastic covering, fibreglass 1 sub in each corner of boot, make up a amp rack in the middle, done :D.

I have designs for a 12" side install sealed sub box too.

it can b done if u know what your doin, if any of u guys went 2 autosalon final battle 04 there was a silver r33 with full jl audio install 2x 12'' subs in the corners and 2 amps down the centre all fibreglassed and sprayed in r34 blue. this r33 is my own car and ill try get some pics up 4 u guys

why 1 sub per amp?

2 subs per amp better... lower impedance more crunk foe ya system...

use 2 x 2ohm subs (Assuming they are Dual Voice Coils), run your monoblock at 1ohm.. a good 1kw RMS of power... considering the monoblock does 1 ohm stable...

thats more power than 2 subs running off 2 amps

it can b done if u know what your doin, if any of u guys went 2 autosalon final battle 04 there was a silver r33 with full jl audio install 2x 12'' subs in the corners and 2 amps down the centre all fibreglassed and sprayed in r34 blue. this r33 is my own car and ill try get some pics up 4 u guys

Please do

it has a normal size one, like u would find in the engine bay of an commodore for example, also with rca'z what length is reccomended, i was thinking something about 12ft/4m is this right???

im running 4 gauge wiring into a distro block then thats going to each amp 1 monoblock and 1 4ch

system is 2 audiobahn 12z, kenwood 9152d monoblock, clarion 4ch, alpine type s splits for front and rear, and a pioneer audiovisual headunit

thanks

You can fit 'em in, but I would recomend to dump em for some 6.5 or whatever the factory size is as 6x9's are a good comprimise for getting bass without wanting a sub. You have 2 subs so I wouldn't worry about trying to fit 6x9's. If you do however you may need to bend/cut the parcel tray, which I definatley wouldn't recomend.

I'd runn 4g for each amp to a distro block, then 2 or 1g to the battery. Looks like you'll be getting some juice going into your system. Don't forget to fuse it correctly as close to the battery as possible.

ok, yeah ill prob go get a length of it and do that, as my amps are gonna be sitting on the sides of the boot

after spending a few hours working out measurements and all that stuff for my sub boxes, ive marked out everything in my boot, im gonna be making my sub boxes up next week as im going for my ps on monday so i wanna practice as much as possible

ill post pics up once the boot is carpeted

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...