Jump to content
SAU Community

Gb: R33 Gts-t And Gtr And R34 Gtt Radiator Guides


Recommended Posts

not sure, i was getting paulr33 to pick mine up from the SAU Vic meeting tuesday night, but he msged me back saying that pete was sending them back because they were missing a hole or something

I'm sure Pete will let us know whats going on shortly.

  • Replies 520
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

They are missing a slot for the Bonnet Support clip thingo.

I'll be attacking them with an angle grinder (very carefully of course) tonight to remedy the situation.

All of the R33 GTS-T guides are done and bent and all looky nicey, and 10 of the 12 R34 GTT guides are done.

The GTR and other R34 GTT guides will be cut today along with a sample of the Stagea ones.

I'll take some pics at lunch for you.

cheers

BASS OUT

They are now made.

I just have to add the extra little slot over the next couple of evenings and I'll start packing them.

WooooWhooo

Hey guys.

Trust, yep I go your pms. Sorry I haven't replied, I'm totally under the pump at work.

I have to apologise for the delay in sending the guide out to you guys, I've been workingg until 7 and 8 pm every night last week.

I plan on taking a few hours on Monday or Tuesday night to get them all in bubble wrap and a steel case and get them out ASAP.

I really am sorry, I've just been crazy busy.

I promise that I'll get them out early next week.

My apologies.

PS. the extra hole required on the R33 guides will look just like the rest of the guide. It wont look crap or anything. I think I can use a turret punch and manipulate it so that the slots are perfect.

BASS OUT

Hi Gents.

A turret punch is a machine that punches holes in things.

I have organised with the guys next door to do the punching for a slab of VB this week.

The R33GTR guides are going to be packed tonight and then as soon as the R33 GTS-T guides are punched, they will be packed.

The R34 GTT guides are mostly ready.

I have a bend to puy in them (finihsed tomorrow morning) and I will be able to pack them tomorrow or Wednesday.

People with anodising: I have to wait until R33 GTS-T guides are punched (which will be early this week) so that I can get them to go through all together.

I'm sorry for this further delay. I was up the Gold Coast for work all of last week.

Pete

just let me know when mine are ready and I'll come for the drive over, let you make us coffee and we'll talk about what great blokes we are.......

Hi Gents.

A turret punch is a machine that punches holes in things.

I have organised with the guys next door to do the punching for a slab of VB this week.

The R33GTR guides are going to be packed tonight and then as soon as the R33 GTS-T guides are punched, they will be packed.

The R34 GTT guides are mostly ready.

I have a bend to puy in them (finihsed tomorrow morning) and I will be able to pack them tomorrow or Wednesday.

People with anodising: I have to wait until R33 GTS-T guides are punched (which will be early this week) so that I can get them to go through all together.

I'm sorry for this further delay. I was up the Gold Coast for work all of last week.

Does this mean that the GTR guides will be sent out once they are packed?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...