Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Jim,

I find these results amazing, 20awkw is a substantial increase!

I have booked my final tune with crd for next week...I will post my results here for everyones perusal.

Regards,

Marko.

Hey Guys,

Here is dyno sheet of a R33 GTR with a new engine we built with R34 N1 turbochargers with before and after of 98 and 100 octane shell fuel.

Car is used for circuit only.

CRD

  • 2 weeks later...
ive had my safc tuned for 98 octane.. if i use this extreme stuff would i REALLY need a retune?

Only if you rev the engine out, or value your pistons' life spans.

The fact that higher RON level means you can run more timing isn't as important for the retune, but the fact that its oxygenated means your engine will run lean comparable to your 98RON tune is why your current setup may not be good for the engine.

If you've got it tuned close to the edge on 0% ethanol fuel, the E5 Optimax Extreme might push it to a point where you get detonation.

This is big I actually calculated 41 extra four wkw for extra 2 octane points. Must have had more timing and maybe more boost added to do this?

We did same on S15 yesterday and made almost 20rwkw with a bit more boost and timing.

There is a question mark with the Ethanol in it effecting injector seals as well as early model injector design and electrolysis. But hey I am going to use it and guess it should be ok or they would not release it, or are we all test pilots?

well, i had a sip of it yesterday and it tastes no where near as good as bp ultimate. true.

It certainly looks like a good option for race use. Much cheaper than the options from elf etc.

well, i had a sip of it yesterday and it tastes no where near as good as bp ultimate. true.

It certainly looks like a good option for race use. Much cheaper than the options from elf etc.

full tune and comparo to C16 coming soon....keep you posted

full tune and comparo to C16 coming soon....keep you posted

I used it in my Slot Car at Wakefield yesterday and no problems and car felt strong all day.

I've filled half a tank yesty.... just a question tho... I have a stock ecu.. how do i reset it... and.. do i need to?

Reset does jack....

I had mine on the dyno ~3years ago, did a few little tests - pod vs stock airbox, ecu reset. All showed a zero increase in power anywhere in the rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...