Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got my standard ecu remapped/dynotuned (rom tune from hyperdrive). Came up with 232hp at the wheels. DYNO GRAPH http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a251/aut...ot/scan0003.jpg

My car is an 93 auto gtst with

gcg stage 2 R33 hiflow turbo (500hp)

full 3inch exhaust no cat and no spliter in the dump XFORCE system with 2 a midmuffler and rear cannon

apexi pod filter

gtr injector and z32 afm 040 fuel pump

front mount intercooler.

22$ boost controller still using the rb20 actuator with it presprung a little bit.

Does this sounds like a fairly decent power figure for an auto? i thought it was pritty low but yeah guy that did the tune seems to think its about all you will get from it.

ALso sometimes before it changes gears it goes on the limiter and take a while to change is this cause the auto can't keep up. Was thinking about getting a shift kit to fix this but dono if it would

Only problems i can think of that could cause lack of HP are:

I had to rotate the turbo housing cause BHDAVE had a himount manfold or something. Could the seal be leaking since i have done this and cause any problems. I doubt it cause air fuel ratios were good hyperdrive said and seems to hold boost fairly well. Also had a small crack in cooler piping but i patched it up with silcon hosing and put like 4 hose clamps on it (bit of over kill) but i don't htink its leaking

or

As someone mentioned the intake pipe is collapsing inwards with so much boost

Guy i brought the turbo off was running 12psi,with the stock injectors in it at this stage which is why the a/f ratio starts climbing at 6k and made 173rkw's http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1132642989.jpg

Edited by AntonRx7
  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well i think thats what, 175rwkw?

thats pretty reasonable for the RB20... if my mind isnt leading me astray with the kw conversion

A good ECU is going to make a difference also thats for sure

it has gtr injectors

yeah it does feel faster actually runs nice. think maybe ill get shift kit as well to help out with shifting speed.

I just though only running 14psi for most the time is pritt shit.

It was done at hyperdrive in WA

it has a rom tune which is like putting a chip into it as its an auto so aftermarket is pritty hard to use

RB25 hiflow

i brought it of BHDAVE from this forum do you think maybe something could be wrong?

i am using a boost controller from the forums one of the 22$ ones, although the boost line seems to be normal i have been told so this must be ok. Just really thought i would have got more HP than i have

Edited by AntonRx7

yeah even though mines auto seems a bit odd doesn't it

could it be a boost leak from anywhere like the turbo or something i wouldn't have though so but i dono what else could be the reason. I am running more boost and on a hiflow turbo and you have more than me a bit odd. Wat dyno was yours on

you have an extra .5 of a litre but even then somethings is not right ay. Inlet temps were 50 i think it says on the dyno sheet to dono if that owuld make that much difference either

Looks like he's got not timing in there at all. Then again could just be a mushbox as well. Was the trans slipping?

can i point out that its a bit hard to call how laggy a turbo is without seeing the tune ?

Your assuming that all other factors are perfect.

if your timing is way out(cam belt slipped) for example it can be a pig to spool and make no power.

how would i know if my timing is not right. surley they would have told me if the timing was not right. I dono if the trans was slipping i would have thought they would have told me that too.

Did feel a bit quicker last nite as it was cooler but still dissapointed with the hiflow turbo

you got a continuous 170rwkw over 5500-7500rpm without it tapering off.. thats not bad to me from an auto RB20.. but you'd expect maybe another 10% I'd agree at least.

I have a feeling your wastegate is bleeding off boost after 17psi due to the spring not being strong enough.. afterall - its 10psi above (rb25 actuator?) the standard boost the wastegate is set for?

You'd really have to speak to somebody who has the same turbo on an RB20 and find out what boost they have to run to get xxx rwkw to get another base comparison.

Edited by predator2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...