Jump to content
SAU Community

Place for a service?


Recommended Posts

Guest Cacophony

Hi dudes.

New to the Skyline scene - so was wondering where I can go to get a good service?

I live in the western suburbs, so don't want to go down to Morphett Vale to get it serviced through the importer I bought it from. They charge about $160 though.

Any recommendations, and prices?

Oh yeah, what should I expect done for a new service (what do I need done?)

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9590-place-for-a-service/
Share on other sites

I would recomend Tilbrooks as a good place to go. Its not going to be cheap to get a good service. You are probably looking for new filters, plugs (platinum $150 ish) and good oil. When I had my first service it also included a few modifications (Power FC, Bleed valve, dyno tune and reporgramming the FC) and cost close to $1000. [The results were worth it though]

yeah everyone likes tilbrooks ... their results speak for themselves ... but if ure after something a bit cheaper ... try pvp imports ... they just did a standard tune for me and only cost me 110 bucks ... changed the oil and filter and check the rest of the car out ... i highly recommend them if u're not after a performance tune!! :wave:

Manta Racing 8234 8688

Deacon ave , Richmond

Had a few other things done to my car like replaced front pads

with bendix ultimates and flushed whole braking system and

replaced two iridium plugs ( bought six iridiums of my own but two were the wrong size) plus a major service came to around

the $500 mark.

It was choice either between tilbrooks or manta racing and I

choose manta. Its up to you who you take it to, both have excellent reputation, both know skylines and both you can trust

  • 1 month later...

I just clicked over 100k. :D

Can anyone give me the part numbers of the belt and plugs for a bog stock 95 R33. Also the best gapping for the plugs.

I dont think I can get to Tilbrooks or Manta in a hurry so I may just go local. What about RPM or Turbo Tune?

Cheers

Paul

  • 2 weeks later...
Originally posted by Sinesweep

I just clicked over 100k. :D

Can anyone give me the part numbers of the belt and plugs for a bog stock 95 R33. Also the best gapping for the plugs.

I dont think I can get to Tilbrooks or Manta in a hurry so I may just go local.  What about RPM or Turbo Tune?

Cheers

Paul

Well there has been great debate over rpm and others on nissansilvia.com, there are so many stories flying around about bad and good things...

never heard any stories bout manta ever...

Tilbrooks have a strong rep for quality work.

But if u want a job done properly, do it yaself. (if u know how that is)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...