Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bass junky just went to 250rwkw and his workshop put a 3" (or maybe 2.25" or 2.5") section of steel inside the the rubber intake piping and clamped it to prevent it from being sucked closed. i also had a look at the apexi super intake for r33 and it looks very nice, but its basically the same thing. i dont believe you would gain anything from using it other than avoiding the sucking closed thing and nice shiny new intake pipes

regardless if it sucks fully closed or not it is still a restriction.. me and a few other mates have done comparisions between stock rubber hose and a solid mandrel bent pipe and picked up a car length or 2 (wasnt exactly done on the strip :) (private road.. apprently)) but the car we tested agains ran consisant times due to being auto and before and after was 3 out of 3 for each so you do pick up a little bit from it

Wazz

you answered your own question Robo actually :D hehehe

if the pipe he no sucking shut... then he no problem

You will get no gain if the hose is the same size as the turbo inlet.

Really, how can it be? Only gonna suck what it can fit :(

So no need if your certain its not sucking shut.

Wazz... definately not a restriction. Drag racing on the street isnt a very accurate way of doing a test. Stupid if you ask me.

GTR's run 350kw+ @ the treads stock piping no worries.

i just replaced the rubber piping conecting my pod to the intake(previous owner thought soft rubber was good idea) and felt very restrictive. Had 3" stainless put in there and really noticed the diff. I talked to the guy at the exhaust shop about the rest of the intake and he said that the way its built it should suport round 220-240rwkw..... but the rubber insert conecting them was deffo sucking closed

you answered your own question Robo actually :(  hehehe

if the pipe he no sucking shut... then he no problem

You will get no gain if the hose is the same size as the turbo inlet.

Really, how can it be? Only gonna suck what it can fit  :(

Not necessarily true. I know with experience LS1's they can gain several kw's with bigger maf to TB pipes as the stockies become restrictive. Its generally in the bends that upsets the flow but i have never seen much info with these RB25's

gary explained this last time someone was talking of moving the hotwire rb20 afm into a larger diameter airflow meter shell. the restriction in an N/A car is different to that of a forced induction car. The N?A has restrictions all through the intake and inlet system. The turbo/supercharged model restrictions only lie after the compressor/forced unit. So in theory upgrading the intake to a larger diameter at your given power lower wont "unrestrict anything" if that makes sense. well at least thats what i recall.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...