Jump to content
SAU Community

Group Buy: Cb Radios (updated - Dec 23)


Recommended Posts

ey ni, good work on the price of the units + charger.

i cant get to the christmas BBQ thing coz ill be working, so how much you rekin its gonna cost to post it to me?

and i can just direct deposit the cash into your account :wacko:

  • Replies 255
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

unfortunately it is... but if you find someone else you can go halves in a pair on ebay from the same shop... wont be quite as cheap but not far off.... should be able to pick a pair up for 90 delivered or less.

ok... silva33 you might be ok.

EVERYONE listed please email me [email protected]

Give me these details in the email:

First name:

Last name:

Forum Name:

Address:

Contact Number:

Pickup or Postage:

Im creating a XLS so i know who got what and if they want it shipped or pick it up from a meeting/my joint.

I'll send out a mass email confirming the details and costs etc.

LATEST UPDATE!!ALRIGHTY! 567.5 Delivered to my door for 14 units! Thats $40.60 per unit + $6.05 for the charger (mains) so a total of $46.65. i think the easiest way to do it would be to transfer say $26.65 for now and the rest when ya get it off me or you can do it all at once if it suits you. So if someone wants to organise the buy of all the other bits like batteries and stuff that would be good.

UPDATE:: 12 chargers (mains) have been purchased at a cost of $6.05 each. This will be added on to the total once i have bought all the handsets as well. Total cost should be up by monday latest.

Ok so so far we are only going to be buying the mains chargers and main units off these guys from ebay. The rest of the accessories can either be bought from Jaycar.

Alright Nark, you want me to come around with the dosh? Or we can meet up for a coffee too :O. Actually everyone of us should meet up at a cafe somewhere this end of week or weekend!!!! To collect the goods and talk shit lol.

Email me [email protected] or my direct line 95527273.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...