Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently replaced all fluids in my R33 GTR with Redline Synthetic and since then a lound crunching sound is coming from the trans when reversing at low speed on lock.

Mechanic and redline assure me this is normal and is called " DIFF CHATTER " or ' clutch chatter '.

Want to know if anyone else has had any experience with this ??

sb..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96238-diff-chatter/
Share on other sites

axle-tramping... Like... umm.. the rotation of the diff affects how the rear end squats or lifts when you're gunning it.

Mine (stock) will chatter and jump all over the place if I light it up in the wet in 1st gear, but if I switch to 2nd, it's all smooth sailing (sideways).

I get the chattering if I reverse quickly or give it some steering at the same time.

Maybe i'm horribly wrong, and it's just a LSD diff thing... I don't know a lot about what a 1.5-way diff is, but i've heard those specs a few times before. I know what open, LSD, locker, active LSD all are, but this "way" business could be something related?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96238-diff-chatter/#findComment-1746517
Share on other sites

yeh if ur clutch doesnt have a spring centre to damper the grip of the two faces when releasing the clutch it will send a shudder or jolt down the drivetrain line which in turn can cause something else to engage too quickly or too roughly which may cause the shudder your experiencing.

The spring centre is purely to help take up some of the initial jolt when the clutch is released. Makes for a smoother drive normally. My car has a sprung centre and its beautiful, the race car has no sprung centre and its really jolty and clunky, makes you think something is wrong with gearbox when u release it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96238-diff-chatter/#findComment-1755799
Share on other sites

Don't mean to hijack your thread mate, but my car does the same sort of thing. I'm under the impression i have a locker diff, it's just very inconsistent on when it wants to make some noise. It gets people looking at my car for the wrong reasons. :D

But what R33 racer has said has me thinking now, as "sometimes" I can feel the shudder actually beneath me from the rear of the car, other times it's just at the back. I have had the oil changed to redline lightweight, but i need to change it again to a heavier oil. Lightweight makes it good for less friction, but i don't need it for racing!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96238-diff-chatter/#findComment-1758722
Share on other sites

Guys this link might be of some benefit to you.

I am also a Rex club member.

Please see this link.

Note sti05's posts and STIRA and lastly closed deck who owns Urban Racing Developments

http://www.wrx.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?...ghlight=redline

Edited by PATR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96238-diff-chatter/#findComment-1759375
Share on other sites

link doesnt work.

The original post sounds like its just the diff noise from the change in oil..other people have mentioned their diffs clunk more with redline oil in it more noticably in reverse and or while some form of steering lock is applied. The oil maybe lighter and have a tendancy to increase any diff noise rather then absorb or dissipate it.

But from what im hearing here about the clutchs...sounds like its a matter of when u engage the clutch without enough revs it clunks and carrys on also...forgot to mention that part previously. Especially if its a ceramic or brass button clutch..and even more so if its a non-sprung centre clutch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96238-diff-chatter/#findComment-1760936
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 馃榿 Definitely the car
    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It鈥檒l be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
  • Create New...