Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd defintely be keen. Never been down before, and would rather not go to a day where the track is packed (if thats possible, I doubt it!!)

I'll be waiting for new year though, I don't imagine a stock intercooler likes the heat down there at the moment :blink:

I'd defintely be keen.  Never been down before, and would rather not go to a day where the track is packed (if thats possible, I doubt it!!)

I'll be waiting for new year though, I don't imagine a stock intercooler likes the heat down there at the moment :)

Yeah thats the same for me although as long as your only running stock boost and not doing like 10 laps in a row going all out its not so bad, but very true would be better to wait till the weather cools down. although im starting to get an itchy right foot again.

Also the best day to go down is friday if your going to stay the night, so you get a long weekend and when you get home on saturday you've still got the rest of the weekend....... even if that is reserved for making it up to the girlfriend cause you just spent more money on that STUPID CAR. :D

Some great times guys. I went to the recent Circuit Club day where there is official timing. I didn't take the GT-R. I took my little Mazda MX-5 and got a 1.16 in the time attack (you get one warmup lap then one timed lap then one cooldown lap).

It was a very very hot day so everyone's times were slower for sure. Here's the results:

http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....12/2005.WAKE.S2

Embarassed quite a few cars which are potentially much faster my little MX-5 (stock engine of-course!) :(

Went for a spin today at Wakefield Park. A shit load of bikes were there, man some of them are stir fry crazy. :D Track was good, car felt great and passed quite a few, including a Ferrari 360.. :D Surprised a few when they found out it's an auto NA.

Go the Zed, Ports and you have become a Motorsport Nut in last six months since we corrupted you at yoiur first track day there earlier this year.

I went out yesterday to a invitation only Christmass Event run by Gulf Western and lots of nice cars and lots of race cars that looked fast but got in the way a lot and not a lot of track time as there were HEAPs of cars there. Ron ( Wizard) was in it with us in his auto twin turbo zed and looked like fastest road car there. I think driving had a lot to do with it.

I also had the slot car wound up well and did a 1: 6.57. and no V drinking. In car transponer so proper timing not my mate with favourable stop watch he he.

106 now!  I don't know how you do it Ports.  Mine is auto too which is good for surprising people.

Hey Adam

I'm flattered that you have me down for such a low time at WP, but I think you'll find it was another boat, Boosted Zed, that hit 1.06's. I'm still up for 16's. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...