Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A little bit of clarification;

We have played with the ATTESA in several R32GTR's and found big improvements from upgrading/servicing the clutch packs. Just like any other clutch, the plates wear out over time and R32's are now far from new. There are a number of retail outlets than can do ATTESA upgrades, I am sure places like Racepace, Croydons and Advan would be able to help.

We haven't seen much of an issue with the hydraulics, although the pump itself is definitely worth checking and the hoses should be replaced. Don't forget to change the fluid and bleed the system.

We have found that this makes more of a difference than electronics, nothing that we tried in that area would fix a worn out clutch pack. It doesn't matter if you have the fastest ATTESA ECU, if the mechanicals are worn out, it won't help.

My suggestion, attend to the mechanicals first, then, if it still isn't up to your requirements, look to the electronics.

:D cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

good idea!!! great idea actually and makes complete dense to me. only problem is here in the states there is no service for these, so i will haft to source the parts myself and get the service manuals and get my buddy to help me tackle it. is this a job that requires the front diff assembly to be removed from the car or can it be done with it in the car? i am going to do the clutch so i guess i can do it the same time. thanks

good idea!!! great idea actually and makes complete dense to me. only problem is here in the states there is no service for these, so i will haft to source the parts myself and get the service manuals and get my buddy to help me tackle it. is this a job that requires the front diff assembly to be removed from the car or can it be done with it in the car? i am going to do the clutch so i guess i can do it the same time. thanks

Gearbox out is easiest, just disconnect the tailshafts, no need to remove the front diff. I am sure the guys here would supply parts and instructions, although the standard ATTESA service manual would do the trick.

:D cheers :(

Hi Guys, After changing, flushing and bleeding the ATTESA oil in my 32gtr, I fitted a torque split controller, which I had a local electronics wiz kid make for me. Works really well, the car feels very tidy coming out of corners. The unit is fully adjustable 0 to 10 , 0 being standard 10 being max ( I have enough parts to make 4 more )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...