Jump to content
SAU Community

Shannons Insurance Just Keeps On Getting Better!


Recommended Posts

Can someone possibly pm me what 'criteria' they look at before insuring you?!

From what i can understand they are very selective on who they insure.

I have been driving for years with a sqweaky clean record.

Or do they look at other aspects?

Cheers,

Ando

You should do a comparison quote of before/after you turn 26 (even though i thought the price reduces when u turn 25, not 26).

the magic age is 26....mine was reduced from about 4500 to 1600...and no extra to pay by the month....GOLD!

also i have never had full insurance before, but because i had had no seriour fines and a no accident record, they gave me the full no claim bonus!

Andrew they will try and qualify you as a car "enthusiast" and one of the main ways they do this is by whether you are a financial member of a car club like sau :)

Adam: Theres nothing like having a policy from your insurer that lists every single mod on your car down to the type of forged pistons you are running :D

I have both my skylines insured with them also, so i get the multi car discount

Thumbs up for Shannons

My insurance (Just Cars) is due in early 2006, but after reading through this I will give Shannons a call to see if it will be better to insure with them.

From what I have read they seem the better insurer, but they turned me down a couple of years ago when I wasn't an SAU member (only recently joined).

Really? I'll be up for about $1700 in the new year, but I have yet to tell them of recent upgrades done to the car, so premium may be a little higher!

I will still compare the two insurers as both have there good points and bad points, and sometimes it may be worthwhile in the end to pay just that little bit more!

My insurance (Just Cars) is due in early 2006, but after reading through this I will give Shannons a call to see if it will be better to insure with them.

From what I have read they seem the better insurer, but they turned me down a couple of years ago when I wasn't an SAU member (only recently joined).

are you sure you are a club member? you don't have the little bar in your profile?

are you sure you are a club member? you don't have the little bar in your profile?

Well I joined at the xmas party earlier this month, not sure what I am meant to do next! Just wait, I guess!

yeah don't worry Drift King its all in the works atm, we are just a bit slower over xmas :)

RSTME they pretty much all use agreed value policies for imports, basically there is no market value they can rely on so they set a value

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...