Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls, i have just bought a car and need some help on mods and compliance. The car is a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t 4door.

These are of the car right now in Japan

7624.jpg

This is a quick chop i what i would like it to look like

4dr3ba.jpg

the mods done in the chop are

Removed Rear Spoiler: whats involved in doing this, cost?

Rims: looking at 5 spoke around 17inch, which are either white or can be painted white. whats involved in painting rims? is it something is shud do or shud i get pro, powder-coat etc etc???

Suspension: i would be looking to lower the car 40mm at the front and 50mm at the rear(going by pictures, will have better look when the car gets here), whats a good cheap option? looking for increased handling aswell as look.

Bonnet trim: i have looked at cutting the little lip on the bonnet that hangs down between the lights. it would then be filled with black mesh. method??

as for Compliance: is it worth doin it myself, whats the cost difference on average? thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98719-just-bought-an-r32/
Share on other sites

This will give you a few ideas about Compliancing.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=41327

The beat way to go about rims is to buy white ones or get second hand rims (cause they are cheaper) and get them coated in white enamel, as it sets hard, but I am not too sure about coating Alloy but just ask your local paint shop they should be able to help.

cheers

Chris

yeh thanks, i think i might be covered on the compliance, i have got a quote for around 700 with RWC at a shop. sorry but some of the Qs have already been covered in the NS.com thread.

yeh do u know what size stockies are, 16's?? might get them powdered, or just find some real cheap 17 5spoke alloys and powder them.

I've seen some GTS-T bonnets cut to accommodate a GTR grill, and they've all looked pretty dodgy. If you're keen on the idea, cut the whole inner section out, and weld in a new plate, so it all looks neat. :)

Adrian.

Removed Rear Spoiler: whats involved in doing this, cost?

Depends on how neat you'd want it to look. Very low cost if you just plug up the holes with some silver watertight plastics plug and up to $300 to get the holes welded up and boot resprayed.

Rims: looking at 5 spoke around 17inch, which are either white or can be painted white. whats involved in painting rims? is it something is shud do or shud i get pro, powder-coat etc etc???

I suggest you get them white to start of with and failing that, get a pro to do it. Be warned white multispoke rims require alot of dedication to keep clean.

Suspension: i would be looking to lower the car 40mm at the front and 50mm at the rear(going by pictures, will have better look when the car gets here), whats a good cheap option? looking for increased handling aswell as look.

Get some springs that'll lower the car.

Bonnet trim: i have looked at cutting the little lip on the bonnet that hangs down between the lights. it would then be filled with black mesh. method??

I think you'd be better off getting a GTR bonnet.

Edited by Wink

with the bonnet, i recently done just what you want. cut the lip off with an angel grinder, covered the exposed metal so it wouldnt rust, and cover with a gtr lip piece.

at the jap wreckers here it was $350 for a gtr bonnet which had a dint and huge scratched dint in it.

my $100 gts bonnet in perfect condition with lip grind off works just as well.

pic can be found here

http://members.optusnet.com.au/damage/boos...ll_Sv402956.jpg

with the bonnet, i recently done just what you want. cut the lip off with an angel grinder, covered the exposed metal so it wouldnt rust, and cover with a gtr lip piece.

at the jap wreckers here it was $350 for a gtr bonnet which had a dint and huge scratched dint in it.

my $100 gts bonnet in perfect condition with lip grind off works just as well.

pic can be found here

http://members.optusnet.com.au/damage/boos...ll_Sv402956.jpg

That actually looks pretty good. Can't even tell its a GTSt bonnet

yeh just another quick Q, i was looking at a list of mods recomended by Dr Drift(from ns.com maybe on here aswell) and he rekons to go exhaust and fuel pump (bosch 040) first, and then intercooler after those 2.

just wondering about the fuel pump, he recomended about 400 dollars new, i have seen a few used for round 200, i beleive these pumps also need mounts. and my question is if these pumps dont come with mounts or anything but the pump, what other costs are involved, mounts etc? and will i need to get it put in or can it be done by someone of average maechanical skill.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...