Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just installed a boost controller and I now it is running from the standard 7 to 14psi but it still doesn't hold boost and seems like it has alot more potential then showing. It goes ok to aout 4000 revs and then kind of dies instead of belting my head back to the seat. We put resistance on the air flow to the wastegate which helped a little and I have been told a fuel pump might be the problem. Has anyone got any recommendations on this?

*Moved to General Automotive from Tutorial/Howto by paulr33*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98922-r32-gts-t-no-power-at-14psi/
Share on other sites

Fast-GT-R,

Nothing wrong with 14psi on the rb20det provinding its not running excessively rich/advanced or excessively lean/retarded.

Mine ran 15psi for 100,000km's, in total 170,000km's.

The turbo then ran 12psi for another 20,000km's where I pulled it off, upon inspection the turbo is still perfect, its a very tight turbo, well within specs.

High egt's is what kills the ceramic turbine wheel.

Edited by Cubes

race_snooze,

The R32's don't have rich and retard issues when running the stock or even a mild hks 2530 turbo.

The only time I experienced R&R was once the rb30det was dropped in, the stock ecu simply could not handle the extra airflow at low to mid rpm's,

The fuel cut with the stock rb20det turbo and ecu was around 16-17psion a normal 20+ degree day .

A cold morning or night it would cut in third at around 4500rpm on 14-15psi.

Edited by Cubes

Thanks for all your help guys. I'm getting a walboro fuel pump for my car next week and a 3 inch exhaust through so that should be of some help. I'm also early next year putting the R33 turbo bolted on which should provide some relief. Should I get new pistons with my car running this and the 14psi or is it a waste of money?

Thanks nemz. At least I wont waste any money on pistons not needed. After the exhaust, fuel pump and R33 turbo what should be my next step for more performance and is there any ball bearing turbos within reason price wise for this car that is bolt on without too much strain on the motor. If so where would you suggest getting it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...