Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

considering there was a thread about this last week...

for 300rwkw, you may aswell get used to the idea you'll be shifting manually.

For one the stock box wont take anywhere near that kinda punishment.

A Jatco with around 1k-1.5k spent on it is what you'll be after.

And then its going to be full manual shiftment

I have allready had a shift kit installed, and working on a high stall to get rid of some of the turbo lag. At the end of the day i brought the car for my wife to drive to the shops, as she loves the grunt that the skyline puts out , yet she would rather concentrate on the road then flat changing second when some tosser in a commodore gives her a smile at the lights.. hence i got the auto...

Whats this Jatco box your on about? do you know where i can get one from if my box bites it. also any ideas on suitability of different high stalls, and revs?

The turb dosent start cooking til near on 5000, but a 5000 stall would be a little impractical for shopping.. any suggestions... Cheers

turbo at 5000rpm? what on earth have you got fitted to it?

the stock turbocharger comes on at 2800rpm.

if oyu do the basic stage 1 mods it sohuld be a quick street car whilst retaining the stock ecu still.

cold air intake

boost controller

remapped or apexi safc

3" turbo back exhaust with split dump

front mount intercooler

should get you near 180rwkw and be plently quick enough with a good shift kit and maybe reco'd auto box and bigger transcooler if your worried about reliability. the jatco box is from the vl turbo rb30et and its a very tough box if reco'd and setup properly, have a look on calais turbo for some jatco workshops who can quote / give you some advice. if you wanna stay under 200rwkw then the stock box is probably fine. just service it and get a bigger transcooler.

There was a car in last months issue of HPI if I remember correctly that used bikkirom, can't quite remember all the details though. Will have to look it up again, I think they were using it in a Ceffy?

"My cat's name is Mittens."

turbo at 5000rpm? what on earth have you got fitted to it?

the stock turbocharger comes on at 2800rpm.

if oyu do the basic stage 1 mods it sohuld be a quick street car whilst retaining the stock ecu still.

cold air intake

boost controller

remapped or apexi safc

3" turbo back exhaust with split dump

front mount intercooler

should get you near 180rwkw and be plently quick enough with a good shift kit and maybe reco'd auto box and bigger transcooler if your worried about reliability. the jatco box is from the vl turbo rb30et and its a very tough box if reco'd and setup properly, have a look on calais turbo for some jatco workshops who can quote / give you some advice. if you wanna stay under 200rwkw then the stock box is probably fine. just service it and get a bigger transcooler.

i have already done most of the bolt on mods, including gt30, pump, reg, fmic, cold air, electric boost controler, stainless low mount manifold,3inch dump straight thru to rear tip. and soon to order injectors and ecu...

I fitted the first ever Wolf plugin (was the proto type) to an R33 GTS auto around 2001 and this car still has had no trans problem.

The car is around 300rwhp and was a daily driver city car but for the last 2 years has been in the bush driving from margaret river to busselton evrey working day.

For the WA ppl this was Grant from PER4MANZ Turbos car and now belongs to Jamie wholagan and many would know he spares no car.

Nissan autos are Jatco but the toughest Jatco to start building with is the VL commodore turbo box and it needs no input from the ECU.

yeah, wasnt totally clear :D

the VL isnt the elec box like the R33/R32/R31 (series3) boxes are.

the elec boxes are total crud to rebuild

as for 300rwkw from an auto/GT30.

I dont think thats realistic. 280rwkw at the most.

The auto sucks a bit more of the power as opposed to the manual

but 5000rpm - no way a gt30 in any spec would be that late. even with a 1.06 housing

i was in the same position for finding a ECU for my auto r33

i was gettin mixed opinions of if it worked or didn't

as to saying that it "worked" meaning the car moved

apperantly gear changes are bit harsh and gearbox wont last too long

and chasing 300rwkw gearbox won't last that long either.

I changed the gearbox to manual, drive in drive out for 2500

didn't really want to do that, but hey, i knew gettin a aftermarket ECU was definately going to work.

and didn't have to muck around with rebuilding box, getting a shift kit, a stall converter, or finding a ecu that might work or not.

I'm modding my car close to 250rwkw, and know the manual will be right, might have to get a new clutch, but thats about it.

Also with the advantage of knowing what gear you are in, being able to power through corners, without the concern of changing down a gear on ya. ( Nearly lost it once going around a corner and changed a gear on me , ass end got a bit happy, bit exciting)

Also i want to get into the drifiting side of things, the auto would of been a bit weird.

But yeah if ya want a spare autobox, i have one.

THanks

Barret

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...