Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK I'll try and show off my paint brush skillz

adjustablecaster.JPG

The first pic shows maximum caster, the second is minimum caster.  As you can see moving the mounting point in the bush changes the length of the caster rod.

Yes, I understand all that. And I reckon the max / min is the other way round?!
The bolt and tube have splines that lock the together, you may even need some gentle bashing since the bolt is so tight in the tube.

Once its in the bold and tube are locked together.  Turning the bolt turns the tube in the tube in the bush.

You use a lock nut over the normal but to keep the caster in the set location.

No it doesn't. The hole is a clear hole, with no threads or anything. The bolt simply passes through and out the other side, and a nut screws on to lock it all tight.

Maybe, as with the camber kit, Whiteline has redesigned the method of adjustment of the castor bushes. But there is no way mine works the way you have described, Duncan. The kit I have is simply 2 urethane bushes and 2 steel rods with off-centre bolt-holes through them. There is no castor bush bolt.

  • 2 weeks later...
Anyone know which way it is?

Gotta install these today and I just want to set them to max before I take it in for an alignment next week.

The objective is to pull the wheel forward for more positive caster. So the eccentric should be set for (effectively) shortening the radius rod.

:rofl: cheers :rofl:

It's their KCA332 kit. It consists of 2 urethane bushes and 2 steel crush tubes, with an eccentric (off-centre) bolt-hole through the tube.

If you go into their webstore and search for the kit, there is a (small) picture of the components.

(A search for KCA331 will show an assembled kit)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...