Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

errr....try maintainence section...but no reply so i try here again

cut the story short

just went out to buy macs....

after i got out of macs....i couldn't get into any gear mad.gif

i push the clutch many times and try to see if it helps...but no luck

i turn off the car....then i can push the stick into any gear

so....is this caused by a faulty clutch???? or something wrong with the gearbox (hope not)... sad.gif

PS big thanks to the gentleman and his wife in the range rover helping me to push the car....really appreciated smile.gif

cheers

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99489-gearbox-or-clutch/
Share on other sites

i felt a bit funny with the clutch after i washed my car the nite b4.....

i thought...yeah.....maybe it's just that i was wearing the thongs

KRZYSIU: i dont know really...it just feels like it's not working...but not sure...coz the wierd feeling of the clutch....i think it might be the clutch??? hope it is something simple

AL: i have checked on the floor...there isn't any fluid leaking

11th i think..

something relatively simple you can try is get a mate to sit in the car and pump the pedal as you open and close the bleed valve on the clutch slave cylinder to bleed to system, could be a possible cause...

i doubt it would be gearbox related..

if you want to know how to bleed let me know i can post how..

get your mate to sit in the car, while u get under it near the clutch slave cylinder..you should see a bleed valve, nipple, about a size 8 or 10...see what size spanner fits on to it...

with the clutch fluid reservoir cap off and some fluid near by, get your mate to pump the pedal a few times, then get him to hold it all the way down and undo the bleed valve just half a turn untill air/fluid squirts out... be careful not to get the fluid on your clothes or eyes, and the paint work(i suggest safety goggles and overalls for this, the fluid will fly out everywhere, please do take care!!)...you can actually get a vacumm hose to fit on the nipple so you can guide the fluid into a jar..

after the the fluid has come out close the valve, and then your mate can let the pedal come up... at this stage also get him to top up the fluid, making sure the fluid never gets too low!!

repeat this process several times, all the air should come out and the system should be bled...

I recomend using a clear vacuum hose on the bleed nipple so you can see the fluid and air bubbles being bled out. Do it until there is no bubbles in the system. and make sure you top up the reservoir or it will suck air back in.

Good luck with it.

And with the slave cylinder (mounted to bell housing), where can it leak to? If that was it then the fluid would be on the ground.

the leak also could be at the master cylinder, most likely internal so may be a little hard to see, so make sure you check all around and under the master cylinder as well as the fire wall and even inside the car where the pedal meets the firewall...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...