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Afm

mid life crisis

By mid life crisis,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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mid life crisis Veteran

mid life crisis

Posted
Posted

any one know what a brand new air flow meter is worth for a r33 gts-t at all. my sons r33 was running like crap so we cleaned the afr for very little difference .so then we took the afm off my r33 and bolted it onto his car and farken hell what a difference it made so much smoother and goes like a cat with deep heat on its nuts plus his car has been using so much fuel its not funny so im hoping the afm was the cause of that as well . really dont want to put a second hand one back on his car just in case it is half buggered as well but have no idea what a new one is worth ? anyone know and would you have to buy a geniune one from nissan or can you get after market ones?

cheers midlife crisis

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the_barman82 Contributor

the_barman82

Posted
Posted

I recently had the same problem mate. My afm was screwed when I bought the car. I got it reconditioned for $350. Took a while for them to get the specs right but when they did it really cracked. I have heard new afm's costing from about $700-$950 brand new! If you can try and find a decent second hand one or get it reconditioned like mine. New ones are pretty rare and expensive.

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mid life crisis Veteran

mid life crisis

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gee i didnt think they would be that expensive might have to go the secong hand way . as for the ecu its just standed car just has a cat back exaust and a pod filter . he is not really chasing power as it goes pretty hard as it is just wants it to run clean , lol i dont hold much hope of getting my afm back of him now :-(

regards midlife crisis

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B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted

If you can use a soldering iron why don't you have a go at repairing your old one?

I did mine a couple of weeks ago and it transformed the car.

No more black smoke, it no longer stalls or hiccups and I get another 100km a tank.

You just cut through the outside edge of the sealant around the cover panel and carefully pry it off.

Unsolder the metal shield on top of the circuit board.

It's best to remove the solder with some desoldering wick.

The problem with mine was where the socket pins are soldered to the circuit board the solder had cracked.

Probably from someone wriggling the plug to remove it.

Just heat where the pins cross with the tip of an iron to melt the solder and add a bit or fresh resin-cored solder to each joint.

I also did a blanket resolder of the whole board, while I had it apart, just to be sure there were no dry joints but I think it would have been ok if I hadn't.

Resolder the shield and reseal the cover with sikaflex or silicon and your done.

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

Cheap second hand SAFC will do the trick, scale the voltage back to the origional afm values.

Definitely worth while if you need an afm now and have plans to throw a safc on it anyway.

Think of it as for the price of a new std item from nissan you can have your self a bosch z32 + safc, making more power and slightly better fuel economy.

Edited by Cubes
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