Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey mate depends on your budget, power target. u could just get a set of bearings and rings and a gasket set and bolt it together stock, or for extra safety and power u will be best with....

forged pistons, treated gtr rods or even forged rods for safety, new piston rings, new bearings, all new oil seals on crank and cams, new block core plugs, full gasket kit is also needed. aftermarket oil pump (JUN, or so) for more power, and also a larger baffled sump is a must on any gtr with decent. then the rest of the gear u can either reuse or buy new better aftermarket stuff, like cams, crank, etc etc.

i've recently posted a thread with detailed pics of my rb26 rebuild in the Forced Induction section, its called "jun 2.7L engine build" or something like that, plenty of pics to see whats going on :)

cheers

Brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99607-engine-rebuild/#findComment-1814882
Share on other sites

A standard rebuild is generally just:

Take out of car and disassemble

Clean and crack test (and maybe xray) block, rods, crank, pistons.

Hore (light) or Bore (heavy) the bore of the block to match pistons

Clean it again

Measure and machine (if necessary) crank

Pressure test head to make sure it seals. Replace valve guides and seats if necessary

New Welsh Plugs

New Big end and main bearings

New Rod Bolts

New Rings

New Oil Pump

New Water Pump if necessary

New Rear oil seal

New Gaskets including head gasket

Put it all back together and back in the car

Often people decide to go bigger or forged pistons at the same time since they cost about 1500 and the rest of the job is $6k+, might as well do it when it is all out. Rods, Crank etc etc at the same time depending on how much you want to spend

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99607-engine-rebuild/#findComment-1815787
Share on other sites

Yeah I did it a fair bit cheaper but I did all the work except for machining myself. Was still over $2k and say 60 hours of labour including work, deliveries, research, costing etc

And of course my motor only lasted 2000klm until it spun a bearing again so I need to do it all again and have another look at what I got wrong.

You can keep it cheaper using aftermarket bearings (ACL or King are about 1/3 of nissan), make sure you get a full VRS (Gasket and seal kit), RB30 water pump is dirt cheap, standard oil pump, all up would save you a say 500-800. As would getting access to parts at trade price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99607-engine-rebuild/#findComment-1815848
Share on other sites

Duncan you are a cheapscape mate , you dont get much for $2k .

As for your spun big and bearing , i would say it was your machine shop , who ever did your crank but you should have checked it when you assemle it to make sure the clearances were correct . I'm you will do that the second time around , like double check this time .

If you need a good crank place p.m. and i'll give you his details.

PhilGTR, a good engine builder will checl everything when the engine is disassembledand replace evetything that is worn .

Always rebor, hone and deck the block , new pistons to suit ( with rings ), check crank , new bearings, ( big end + mains )new oil pump + water pump , new gaskets and seals and service cil head and new timing belt , tensioner and iddler .

Thats a very basic rebuilt fo any engine and by the time you pay for R+R at least $7-8 k for a good job .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99607-engine-rebuild/#findComment-1815939
Share on other sites

hahah yes I do need a good machine shop, I'll give you shout once I get my act together :O And yep, I will double check next time, the funny thing is the stuff I got the experts to do is the stuff that went wrong :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99607-engine-rebuild/#findComment-1815948
Share on other sites

horsepowerinabox sell pre done rebuilds for rb26's for $5500. All you have to do is bolt on your head and drop it back into the car. They use forged pistons too.

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99607-engine-rebuild/#findComment-1815962
Share on other sites

stay well away from venolia forged pistons i've heard (they sell em in the High octane shop in a full rebuild kit for $5000 with rods, gaskets. etc)

lots of bad reports on them, but i hear High octane offer other brands now because of the issues.

Edited by StageZilla
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99607-engine-rebuild/#findComment-1815992
Share on other sites

Thanks guys,

I hope i dont need a rebuild soon. I think I just need to get some new coil packs and spark plugs for mine. Are the Splitfire ignition coils any good?? I seen them for sale around $490ish from perfectrun.com.au.

I saw a rb26 rebuild kit at high octane for $3860 with CP forged pistons. So from what you guys are saying, thats only part of the kit?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99607-engine-rebuild/#findComment-1816150
Share on other sites

I am currently getting engine rebuild and have only paid for parts and it has cost 2K for forged pistons and 2500 for upgraded oil pump, blue print, water pump, N1 bearings, timing belt, metal head gasket and new crank. I am looking at trying to get about 330 awkw and was informed that all pretty much a must. Only things left would be oil sump, oil cooler and upgraded cams. Passed up on them as not necessary for daily driving. Good luck with it all and as I was told do it once do it right otherwise it will cost you more time and more money in the long run.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99607-engine-rebuild/#findComment-1816715
Share on other sites

Phil shoot me a line if you want some advice with it as I've been through it all before :(

Hey Rick!

Well im not sure if i need a rebuild yet, but my car did die last week. The guys at the workshop reckons it shouldnt be serious and probs just needs new coil packs or spark plugs. But just incase if i need a rebuld i would like all the advice i can get! :lol:

Edited by PhilGTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99607-engine-rebuild/#findComment-1817986
Share on other sites

My friend and I have just spent the last month striping and prepping an rb26 to fit in to a VL and he blew 6 grand on the short block. But it is built for around 800-900Hp. cp pistons, Jun rods, machined crank collar and N1 pumps etc.

And that was with us building it. So if you are getting someone else to build it I would put aside 9 grand for a strong engine.

Cheers,

Boz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99607-engine-rebuild/#findComment-1818264
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
    • Running rich in conditions where it shouldn't probably won't do great things for catalytic converter lifespan. I would fix that sooner than later.
    • Yes, important point. Watch the Motive videos with Herman thickness testing the bores and deck. You do not want to push the unlucky (thin) block as hard as you can push the average block.
×
×
  • Create New...