Jump to content
SAU Community

R32: Rear Speaker Installation (Sedan)


Mulkers
 Share

Recommended Posts

Firstly remove the back seat.

This sounds easy in hindsight, but is hard to begin with.

1. The bottom section comes out first

seat_tab.jpg

The tab in the bottom left hand side of the pic is what is trying to be removed.

It sits about six inches in from the door, and requires a decent (re: LOT) of force backwards and upwards to get it out.

After sweat and tears (thankfully no blood) the seat lifts up, and out.

2. The back section comes out next, and needs 2 10mm bolts removed. This then also lifts out.

The parcel shelf is then removed by pulling it up to remove those little plastic annoying tabs, and pulled towards the front of the car to get around the rear windsheild wiper.

(In my case, the brake light wiring was cut, and later soldered, as it would disconect)

difference.jpg

3. The new speaker can now replace the old

In this case, JBL 60RMS 6.5" 2 ways compared to National 8w 6".

installed.jpg

otherinstall.jpg

4. Put parts back together in the reverese order to which they were pulled apart; parcel shelf, back section of seat, bottom of seat.

5. Now its done, and except for the listener, no ones the wiser;

sleeper.jpg

Sorry about pic quality i used a video camera.

Feel free to ask qs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

im pretty sure the rear speaker install for an R32 coupe and sedan are the same.

well a bit easier on the sedan cos youve got back doors and makes gettin in and out easier.... thats about it

did my rear speakers myself (sedan) and helped mate do his (coupe)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Im not sure if it is correct or not? But i have been told that there is an amp for the rear speakers? Is this true? And did you replace the speaker cable to the head unit or just replaced the speakers? Im getting a R32 sedan soon and would like some good sound. nothing over the top but i have heard the stock speakers and well they are showing there age.

If this is true is it ahrd to wire the new speakers up into the amp or just by pass it and go straight for the head unit and have fun ripping up the carpet and so forth?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Gday Mulkers,

Just a quick question, I know it has been a while since you put ya back speakers in but do you remember where you bought them from?

Having read your DIY I’m now deciding to go with the 6.5" JBL's like you did or put in a set of 6 x 9's with some spacers.

I guess with the 6.5's you keep the stock covers, which is a bonus,

Any thoughts since you have now had em for a while?

Thanks heaps,

Regards,

Sean'O

ps: e-bay is an option i know, but i would like to hear them before i buy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sean'O.

I used Kenwood 3 way 6" replacements in my 4 dr last week. They are working fine now.

If u use 6"x9" speakers u lose the plastic covers and invite ppl to lok more at ur car and contemplate being but heads.

I kept the speaker covers as i dont want my car getting more attention then it allready will once it gets back from the pantshop on sunday.

And also what speakers are u guys replacing ur front ones with? WHat sizes. I havent connected the old ones as i want to know what i should go out and buy to replace the 17yr old ones.

Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i just put some kenwood 5 1/4 inch 3 ways (or maybe they were 2 ways) in the front. i managed to fit them in the standard pod, but will be taking them out and using an MDF holder thingy (predator posted a design). they fit ok and clear everything ok, but i think lack of air-gap is giving some distortion and high volume.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey there R32_4door_drifting,

Sorry about the late reply but i just managed to install my speakers the day before i went on a holiday.

I got back a few hours ago lol

Front speakers, well i used a pair of JBL 6 x 4's becasue a lot of ppl i had noticed installed these and they fit in flush with a few minor cuts around the edges, i'm not the best handlyman so i couldn't be stuffed installing custome encolosures for 6" splits etc.

They sound pretty damn good compared to the old crappy ones, wait till you see the old ones lol.

Ps: i ended up going with the 2-way JBL 6.5's in the back, sound AWSOME compared to the stocko's :wub:.

i'll give you the speaker code thingo's if you want to go hunting for them, but i got all my stuff through Strathfield. Beware the 6 x 4's are a speciality so you may have to wait while they order them in. All up it cost $170 (with discounts), well worth it.

6 x 4's : GTO6426e

6.5's : GTO626e

Check out this guys r32, it helped me a bit installing them..

- http://www.geocities.com/brendonmoses/gts4page22.html

Other good info that made it easy for me...

- http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=117576

Good luck with it all mate,

Sorry again for the late reply

Regards,

Sean'O

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

dont bother with the stock amp, run the speakers off the head unit and leave it at that. your headunit's amp will sound a lot better than the factory amp anyway, its a tiny round POS just behind your rear wiper motor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

just buy a descent aftermarket 4-channel amp, one that can fit under the seat run the speakers to that then all you have to run RCA's to the head unit. much cleaner and easier in my opinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ye but that kinda proves GTSboy's point. What's 500 EUR at the end of the day? The END of the day being post install/setup/use. The Blackline could be great. BC Coilovers are pretty great too. "Cheap" alternatives can turn out to be well worth the money and be new bang for buck options. The DIY and cutting half shafts option though.... less so. I'm a big fan of buy once, cry once, which has resulted in me doing everything a large number of times anyway lol.
    • A big issue with these is, unlike the R200, diffs are super expensive. The Blacklines are about €800, Quaife is €1,300-1,500 and any clutch LSD is the best part of €2,000. Have a look on some of the BMW forums, the Blackline has really good reviews for track use - I’m sure not if you’re subjecting it to extreme high performance - but it’s enough for me to go for it. 
    • Hi mate! yeah as far as I can remember u need to rotate the motor in the correct position and then mount the arms (linkage). the motor always does the same movement.  u need to think yourself into and try it a couple times. i think my mounting position was was 90 degrees horizontally pointed to the right side if you are looking at it from the front of your car but not sure anymore   best way to double check it is do draw the motion on a sheet of paper and connect the motor to really see how it moves
    • Hi mate, did you work this out? I have the same issue with my 32!  Cheers
    • I currently have someone who is interested in buying the rear set, plus he has asked me to quote him on an equivalent front set, new of course.   I'll post up what a new set would cost and you can make a decision then. I noted a bit of discussion on spring rates versus swaybar rates, Duncan has explained my approach very well.  What I would add is that if you have high spring rates then it is a PIA to change them if you want to, say, do a track day.  Whereas with adj swaybars it's a much easier task. Plus if you find that there is an imbalance in the handling (oversteer vs understeer preference for you) it is relatively easy to change the balance with adj of the swaybars, again much more difficult with springs.  On the race cars we don't change spring rates all that often, we do however change damper rates frequently, high speed vs low speed bump and rebound independently.  A tuning task not for the inexperienced, driver or engineer.  Driver adj swaybars are adj frequently, several times in 20 minute race is not unusual.   Cheers Gary
×
×
  • Create New...