Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday ppl. im looking at gettin a power fc for my 32 gtr and i was wondering are they easy to fit ya self? just wondering if any of you have done it ya selves. or is it fairly cheap to have fitted by some1 that knows how to do it?

cheers for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99915-fitting-a-apexi-power-fc/
Share on other sites

Hey james, it's karl here. It's damn easy to change over just discharge your battery and unplug the old ecu. It's a big retangular connection. Unscrew the screw that holds the standard ecu in it's cubby, and slide it out. Slide the new one in and hey presto. Also you'll oviously be getting the r32 gtr powerfc and they come with a map already on them for the specific model of car.

They do come with a map already on them so you can just plug it in and drive. But the map is for jap fuel and in alot of cases people do the same thing and plug it in straight away and your car will run stupidly rich and can cause your plugs to foul straight away.

the best thing to do is get a tuner to do it straight away.

keep in mind a decent fc tune will set you back between 400-500 bucks.

mmm, unfortunateley i might have to have my engine rebuilt :P i took it out for a drive today to go and order new brake pads and i noticed sum noise coming from the engine area...like a clunking. took it for a drive again a bit later and then there was like a tinging. both around the point of boost...can sumone help!!!

mmm, unfortunateley i might have to have my engine rebuilt  :)  i took it out for a drive today to go and order new brake pads and i noticed sum noise coming from the engine area...like a clunking. took it for a drive again a bit later and then there was like a tinging. both around the point of boost...can sumone help!!!

This sounds like an Ultratune ad.

umm.. on the hand controller, you should watch the knock readings!!

low octane fuel, excessive boost [untuned] and f**king hot days will make your car knock severe!!

if you can actually hear it thats bad, dont drive it! lower your boost!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...