Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Morning all,

I am currently up to the stage of modding were i need/want more boost. i have a turbo back zorst, pod, Greddy FMIC and BOV.

Ive checked out the Power FC's and they look like a tidy unit capable of almost anything. Would i be better just buying an APEXi boost controller for $600 rather than the Power FC for $1000?? would it be worth the extra $$'s for the added features that it offers?

Im not wanting to turn this into a full blown drag car, but i will probly mod further into next year.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Absolutely dude... buying a boost controller limits you to what you can do. Yeah sure you'll have boost on tap but you can't play around with the vital things which a Power FC will allow you to do.

Save your penny's and get the FC. They are a plug and play unit and have 101 benefits over a run of the mill boost contoller.

Especially if you are looking to mod further, because the FC will allow you to change things like your and air/fuel ratios etc vital when putting more fast bits on your car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1820269
Share on other sites

The AVC-R wont give you anything near what the PowerFC will.

Just buy the boost controller add-on for the PFC, only a few hundred more.

I thought that i would be able to dial up the boost from in the car with just the Power FC. Im assuming that the Apexi AVC-R boost controller allows this option on its own but nothing else. I'll check out some prices on the add-on. I was hoping to have it all for around the $1100 mark roughly.

If i was to do no more mods to the car after this would the PFC stil be the better way to go? Would the extras stil be a benefit to me?

Edited by GTS4dood
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1820486
Share on other sites

The PowerFC is an ECU

not a boost controller. You need to purchase the Boost Contol solenoid etc in additoon to the PowerFC to make the PowerFC able to control boost

this is covered in the sticky thread in this section if im not mistaken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1820590
Share on other sites

Don't bother with the Apexi boost soleniod kit, the factory one works fine. Just buy a power FC and get someone who knows what they are doing to tune it. Put the few hundred you'll save into dyno time.

Regards

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1825779
Share on other sites

BBGTR, The RB20DET's run a basic wastegate setup, so an boost controller of some time is required.

Buy the PFC then redrill the holes on the wastegate bracket so that it becomes adjustable. :) Not so much redrill but elong. If you have the cash go the pfc boost controller from nengun.

They are fairly cheap considering its a self learning boost controller. Unlike the Archaic adjust a duty cycle and gain type ebc. The self learning ebc's constantly adjust duty cycle to obtain the target boost pressure.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1825942
Share on other sites

I've always wondered why they GTR's need to run an elec bleed system when they don't have a 2 stage boost like the R33's do.

Whats the 32 GTR's base boost pressure if you were to bypass the solanoid and run it straight off the actuator?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1826292
Share on other sites

I'd just be buying an adjustable actuator and set the preload so you can run 13psi or so. Shouldn't cost more than 250. The r32 dosen't have the aggresive rich and retard strategy that the 33 has so you will make some decent gains from this.

Then save and get the power fc if you want to go further in the future.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1826326
Share on other sites

I've always wondered why they GTR's need to run an elec bleed system when they don't have a 2 stage boost like the R33's do.

Whats the 32 GTR's base boost pressure if you were to bypass the solanoid and run it straight off the actuator?

About 7-8 PSI I think - like most factory springs.

Regards

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1826347
Share on other sites

I'd just be buying an adjustable actuator and set the preload so you can run 13psi or so. Shouldn't cost more than 250. The r32 dosen't have the aggresive rich and retard strategy that the 33 has so you will make some decent gains from this.

Then save and get the power fc if you want to go further in the future.

Ideally i want to be able to dial up the boost from inside the car. If i was to buy an adjustable boost controller and then later add the PowerFC, i wouldnt be able to use the hand controller for it?? unless is was the apexi boost solenoid that i put on initially??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1827502
Share on other sites

Being able to adjust boost on the fly is a novelty.

The RB20DET isn't exactly a boost monster where a slight flick of the accelerator instantly see's all its boost.

Even with the rb30det and a small motor its easy to regulate the amount of boost I make.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1827510
Share on other sites

after 3 days and the novelty of being able to change your boost wares off.. i doubt your gonna be playing with it much :P

Ideally i want to be able to dial up the boost from inside the car. If i was to buy an adjustable boost controller and then later add the PowerFC, i wouldnt be able to use the hand controller for it?? unless is was the apexi boost solenoid that i put on initially??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1827524
Share on other sites

I think you're getting confused.

A boost controller is seperate from a ECU. The pfc is a stand alone aftermarket ECU.. which happens to be able to plug into a hand controller.

A boost controller will just change your boost..

So.. it depends what you want to do - retune the car or up the boost.

The PFC -can- control a boost controller solenoid, so in this sense it can work like a boost controller... but they are really 2 different things.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1827559
Share on other sites

an adjustable boost controller is only good for a factory ecu, if you want high power or low power..

but I'd run high all the time and get a powerfc and tune it to it, ebcause if you tune any ECU to a certian boost, and you lower the boost for a "low mode" you'll f**k all of your tune up cause its tuned for higher boost..

Easiest way to do it, is get the powerfc boost control kit to control spikes, spool, etc etc and level your boost, and then use your foot to control boost...

Less throttle means less boost..... If you can't do that, then you're a danger on the road and you should sell your car and buy a push bike..........

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1828401
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...