Jump to content
SAU Community

Specs For R33 Stock Turbo (Rb25)


Recommended Posts

Does anyone know the specs for the stock RB25 turbo in an R33 1993 model (Series 1??) or can point me in the right direction. I've had a search and come up with nothing useful.

Anyway, What manufacturer/ model, How much power they're good for, How much boost is too much, component sizes, bearings, etc. Any & all specs.

Also a question relating to twin turbos: Is it OK to run 2 different size turbos?, say 3 cylinders feeding 1 turbo and 3 cylinders feeding the larger turbo?

I've got an R33 turbo and a GTIR turbo and I'm looking at building a twin turbo TD42 thats good down low in the rpm range as well as up higher. Basically my normal Patrol forum

doesn't cater for twin turbo info and other Skyline stuff so I came here for info.

If anyone has any GTIR Pulsar turbo info, that would be great too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stock rb turbo is useless. Throw it in the bin. With the patrol what do u expect to gain from a twin turbo setup compared to a single turbo that is matched perfectly for the size and rpm of the engine?

Msg hypergear, im sure he can tell u what turbo ro use on it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know the specs for the stock RB25 turbo in an R33 1993 model (Series 1??) or can point me in the right direction. I've had a search and come up with nothing useful.

Anyway, What manufacturer/ model, How much power they're good for, How much boost is too much, component sizes, bearings, etc. Any & all specs.

Also a question relating to twin turbos: Is it OK to run 2 different size turbos?, say 3 cylinders feeding 1 turbo and 3 cylinders feeding the larger turbo?

I've got an R33 turbo and a GTIR turbo and I'm looking at building a twin turbo TD42 thats good down low in the rpm range as well as up higher. Basically my normal Patrol forum

doesn't cater for twin turbo info and other Skyline stuff so I came here for info.

If anyone has any GTIR Pulsar turbo info, that would be great too.

2 Different size turbos in that configuration would make the thing drive really awful. Either use same size turbo for each lot of 3 cylinders or use 2 different size turbos in series/sequential etc.

But with those turbos I dont think your going to gain much/anything from a series/sequential setup. 4.2L Diesel is going to be inefficent with those turbos anyway. Do it properly or you will be disapointed you wasted your money

Edited by 89CAL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You would probably be better off looking into turbo diesel engines of your capacity and seeing what turbos they use as standard . This would give you a base line into sizing which is a good start .

Be vary carefull not to go too big on diesel turbos because you have a limited rev range to start with , also diesels mostly lower combustion temps means you can run a fair bit of boost without melting anything .

You get a bit of a free ride with detonation ignition too !

Also make sure the intercooling is adequate because diesels like good charge cooling as well .

A .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be it myself building a truck with a RB, I would simply have the factory turbo high flowed and give a description of the desired outcome to the machinist.

I think Hypergear will honestly be a great option for you. Simply tone down your expectations for top end power as you really dont want a top end turbo in a truck. A basic highflow however might see you VERY happy.

GL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

You need to read articles about how turbos work. Have a Google.

you can't run two turbos, different sizes off only half a cylinder bank.

As for 25 stock turbos... Read the Dyno sticky thread yet?

synchronus charging?

Compound charging?

as apposed to a normal twin charging..has been done before, tho this is a waste of time in this situation specially with these 2 turbos..

build something like this in stead :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
    • Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid.   If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it.   Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap?   I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly.   To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way?   Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.
    • Almost any ECU would work, from a 30 yr old PowerFC to a new Motec/Autronic. But presumably you want new middle of the road ECU, meaning that you want a Haltech or a Link, most likely. As to which model though? I dunno. I don't keep track of what they have in their current ranges. You don't want a plug in though, because plug ins can start to cause you the same wiring issues that you have to chase up with your stock ECU/loom swaps when an engine transplant is involved. If you use a Haltech (and presumably a Link) you could put the base map for the engine in and drive it around and not even need to "tune" it. It will work just fine. I can't recommend a tuner without a location (and even then I can't recommend many, being as I never use any tuners except myself and my brother-in-law). And not many tuners are happy to remote tune. Maybe they'd be happier doing it for a basically stock setup that just needs to be demonstrated to be working properly. But even then, not being able to be with the car to see what the hell is going on and sort out the inevitable problems that will result from an engine conversion done by an amateur..... unlikely to be enthusiastic about the job. And if you think that just adding 2 wires for the boost sensor is difficult - you don't want to be trying to install and set up an aftermarket ECU. You're going to have to bite down hard on something with either approach.
    • wired everything up and confirmed that the red with white stripe is indeed the fuel pump pin on this harness. 
×
×
  • Create New...