Zebbie

The Neo engine, is still a RB25, but with minor tweaks, as you do when you release a new shape car :-)

I was guessing something along those lines.... I am trying to get a standard airbox atm, for modding as my input temps were high on a standard day (hks pod/mushroom - 20 deg c ambient, 40 deg c actual input - on a decent probe) God only knows what the real input temps are on a day like the last few. When i've got a standard airbox, we're modding it into a ram input from the underneath of the indicator cluster, which'll help a lot. I've also got a mines ecu, which is running rich atm, just to add to the rest of it.

Sign me up for a R33 one please.

Just to add to the thread...... I ended up having to fill up with the Caltex 'Premium' the other day, and in concert with the warm temps atm (40+ Deg in Bathurst) - I had plenty evil pinging/knocking moments, under mild boost <>5-8psi... It was just like a tin can full of pebbles... :-/ !!! As soon as I could mix what was in the tank with real BP fuel, no pinging at all, even when given a good flogging to see if it was the fuel. I've heard of a few reports of this, especially with the cheaper fuel (Serves me right, tbh) feed thy beast properly!!!

Hey all, I'm after the following : Stock R33 SII Airbox (urgent) Drivers side door plastics/fuzzy material (Black & Dark Grey) The Battery area cover (in Grey) Front Mats, with locating bracket on the driver side A set of the actuating solenoids/whatever it is that controls the direction of the airflow with the aircon. Other things i'm interested in are : Clear Cover for the cam's (RB25) Ashtray Could ppl either PM, email or call me. Cheers, Zeb Tel : 0404-357284

That's cool. I looked at putting the xbox or laptop in the front, and there's just not enough space. Tbh, it'll cost <> 100 Bucks extra to have it in the boot (wireless stuff etc) - but it leaves much more room. I carefully threaded the Video and Audio feed down seperate sides of the car, to avoid big bumps, and to keep the cables hidden. (I used high quality Audio Cable - (Unsheilded) for the video feed, as that's what was to hand, and it's fine, normal audio cable for the feed to the head unit) The 7" TFT I used came from Ebay for 80 AUD, as it didn't have a case, (in progress) and the flexable arm came from a desklamp (bunnings) - Which I mounted the bottom of the arm on a right angle bracket onto the passenger's side, between the seat & the center gear/brake area. I'll grab some shots without any pretties, so you can see how it's mounted. I'm doing the shockmounts for the xbox this avo, hopefully the plan in my head 'll work :-) Anyone's welcome to pm for xbox modding etc, it's all pretty straightforward :-)

Bugger. Didn't look at the age of the thread.

Extra : On the R33, there is a convenient area next to the Battery & Fuse box, which has plenty of space for the xbox, and is good for wires back & forth. K-Mart sell a non-official wireless xbox controller, made by Tru*Blu - It works fine, even if the xbox is in the boot, and the boot is closed :-) (Pretty good quality as well) Xbox software/Easy Upgrades for HDD's etc. For the newbie, there is a set of install software called Slayer's Xbox installer. It will do everything you need to upgrade HDD's install a good dashboard etc. pm me for more details. (It also repairs broken setups)

I'm in the process of re-installing my Xbox in the line, but not in quite so much of a heath robinson way as I had it before. I have a 7" TFT on an arm, which I can swing out of the way whilst driving, or the passenger can watch it, without annoying/distracting me. (Legal Requirement) I've also fed the audio into the head unit (Kenwood double Din) - and the Xbox in the boot. As mine's a '33 - I have some space in the battery area, which i'm fabbing a shock resistant platform for the Xbox to sit on, as running hard disks don't like sharp knocks! (Have a 120gb disk fitted in my Xbox) Mod Chips - I'd only recomend 2, the Aladdin and the Xenium ICE. The Aladdin is 25 to 30 AUD, and the Xenium is 80+ AUD. The Aladdin is probably the best for the car, as the Xenium has many features you wouldn't need in the car. (These are easy to fit, unless you have a 1.6 xbox - latest version, which takes another 15 mins) Both allow backups onto your HDD of your games, as well as XBMC, Multi Region DVD players, mp3's, apps etc (Even Linux - For whatever reason you may want it) As for automatically booting from the boot, what i'm doing is modifying the inverter in the boot with a remote control, and fixing the Xbox so it's always on. The remote control i'm working on is a 15AUD wireless door bell ringer, with a suitable on/off relay. With mods, it should cost about 30 bucks. (awaiting suitable relay to test) This will switch the inverter on & off, the xbox is set to come on as soon as power is present As the Xbox is for all intents and purposes a PC, it uses a form of the ATX PSU, and would be a pain to convert to 12v operation, so it's easier to bung in a 300-400W inverter. (Warning, some 300W inverters do not have suitable cooling for being in the boot, and need an extra/upgraded fan fitted - as they may trip out for being too hot atm - the boot can get *real* warm) If anyone has any questions, post here, or pm me. I have no excuses for any spelling mistakes, as i'm still seeing stars from crowning myself on the boot lock :-/

Heya, I'm after the following, please PM me if you have them lying about! R33 SII Drivers door inner plastics and trim/covering (Dark Grey trim) The soleniods/actuators which control the direction of airflow in the aircon. Skyline mats (primarilly the drivers side) - With the restraining clip(s) - dark grey/black again Boot back lining sheet (Hides the battery etc) - Grey Standard AirBox & Duct Small Boost Gague for steering column (2-3" Diameter iirc) (Mine's 5 psi out!) That's all for the mo... TIA

hmmm.. very odd, also it's only been happening since today :-/ I've been running the guardian for a while, and it's usually spot on, and kills advert/popup connections a beaut. /me assumes it's a purely monitoring thing - goes to investigate

Another forum I read from time to time is the skylines-nsw.com one. I went to catch up there today, and the web site is being forwarded to the nsw police! Has something silly happened? (or are they just intercepting?) My IP guardian proggie stops connections to known ip's etc- Connection Rejected: 203.147.166.133 - Police.nsw.gov.au/WebCentral Pty Ltd AP2P (12-19-2004 @ 15:09:08) That's the result every time I try to go there.............

Fatz, i'm deffo in. i'll pm you later for details etc. cams required, i assume?

To be honest, if you can get it, stick to Premium 98 :-) The car's most probably been tuned/setup for premium, and if it was tuned in Japan, then it'll be for 100-102 RON fuel.... (as mine is) - You may get detonation etc, if the fuel mix leans out too far........ Ala Alarm - If the alarm's arming when the doors are locked, when the engine stops, you'll get a voltage drop, which the alarm could think is a door opening etc.... You might want to look into making sure the alarm doesn't arm until the turbo timer's finished. Edit : Depending on your battery's condition, the drop may be quite substantial......

hmm.. I previously had a set of falkens on mine (187rwkw) and they were almost frigging suidicidal....!! I changed to pretty much the top level of street Yoko's, and I love them, but they're not cheap (245&255x17) - But they are brilliant in the wet, and give oodles of grip :-D Edit : they're also pretty dammed good on wet/muddy unsealed roads too!

I *was* in the UK, moved over here in Feb.... Thank god I left the place! :-D

IMHO, If the tank & sealer cap is sealing properly, you should get the Psssh, from these thoughts : 1) Sealed tank, 1/3 full, lots of petrol vapor, especially when it's warm, which has probably expanded a bit (There's bound to be some expansion with <>20-30L of space in the tank. hence the pssh. if the tank's almost full, there would be very little space for the gasses to expand. 2) If you get leaks, esp after some hard cornering, then there is either insufficent rubber/etc sealant around the filler cap, or the top of the filler tube is deformed in some way, leaving an incomplete seal. 3) A cracked / badly joined filler pipe. A good way IMHO would be to completley fill the tank, carefully upto the top of the filler cap. that way there's fuel all the way up there, and you keep an eye out for any leaks. (before moving car etc) Edit : The petrol smell in the car can come from the above comment too, usually the fumes coming through the boot spaces etc. (I used to have an old crappy Fiat, which spurted fuel out the filler cap on cornering, ala Die Hard ;-) not good when the exhaust is in the same side..!!! ) After that, who knows..... My tuppence worth.....

hmm. anyone got the pics of the lines on the track? (inc mine, which wasn't playing that day) Pretty please!

I'm also very interested in the box only.

If anyone's wanting to stay in bathurst that night, let me know, as I know where all the reasonable priced rooms etc are :-)

Grr. I'm really sorry to hear about the loss of life, my condolances.

Even I can answer this one! No. No. and No. The main reason for this is that the body shell underneath the car is different, making it pretty much impossible to fit the parts. It *may* be possible to convert a GTS4?? Search the forums for details, but I think it's about as cheap to buy a GTR.....

I have now realised I can't acutally speak a word of australian, being a pom and all. WTf? GRUNTN must be what they call a 'deep south' aussie ;-)

Well, was good to meet people & put faces to flippant forums comments :-) Hopefully see you all at the next one (I'll find another convenient excuse, i'm sure) (The hotel down the road is stonking, as long as you don't have to pay full rates!! :-D ) /me is currently newest SAU NSW member Edit : And I want my sticker(s) NOW dammit :-)

My map just happens to have a large speed camera warning for there :-)