Lithium

I had been trying to remember where I put this rant, thought I might dredge it up seeing as it's been talked about in here and I should probably quantify things a bit. I basically worked a lot of this out after tuning my first car using the Bosch 2200cc injectors and struggling with some drivability and getting the charge temperature correction right. Normally I find this kind of thing goes quite smoothly and decided to sanity check the setup and my process, so sat down and carefully checked over the logs, did some maths and worked out that the variation I was seeing was impossible based off ideal gas law, then dug deeper and discovered a bunch of the info I shared in the above rant. The car I was tuning when I found this now has a set of XSpurt 1550cc injectors and immediately tuning the car became a different experience, and the car drives and behaves quite differently. It's alarming how differently in behaves- in some ways. After talking to other tuners, and based off my own experience I would NEVER use a CNG injector on a car using a liquid fuel. The car using these injectors uses a Borg Warner Airwerks turbo, btw - so here's a result from the poor cousin of the EFR: RB30E block with S2 R33 RB25DET head CP 8.5:1 pistons MRP rods, arp2000 bolts ARP main studs Oil pump drive adapter RB25DET oil pump Tomei 256x 8.5 poncams (NVCS) Lightly ported r33 s2 head Genuine greddy intake manifold VH45 throttle body 6x XSpurt 1550cc injectors with flex fuel sensor 150mm intercooler Sinco twin scroll exhaust manifold 66mm precision waste gate Borg Warner S300SX 8375 w/ twin scroll .91 housing 4inch exhaust from turbo to back Vipec i88 ECU NZ Wiring cam trigger kit

This made 570kw on a pretty conservative tune (read: a fair bit more in it if it needed) with 30psi seen before 30psi in a sweep

Ohhhhh... yes.... right, makes sense - cheers (Y) Obviously agree, but I feel this really needs to be underlined. I'd sooner not use the car with the cylinder pressures that high than continue using the stock trigger setup - ESPECIALLY with an identified trigger error issue.

Sweet as, yeah if I had no ECU and it was between Link and Haltech I would definitely go Link - just an unusual option to swap between them so was curious Oh PPG, very nice... that should be a hell of a fun setup, I look forward to hearing how it goes at the drags. Be also interested to hear how reading the signal from the speed sensor goes, being able to wire and config the sensor isn't what I anticipate as a potential issue - it's the fact that the DI frequency is too low to accurately count the blades, even though the Borg speed sensor divides by 8. Or has it been wired to an analog input? That could be interesting... If you aren't going to do the PRP kit I would suggest the NZWiring thing at the very least is a good way to go, takes like half an hour to setup and install from memory - and will be a significant improvement.

Yeah, I have to admit having a brief heart palpitation when I read that it was stock CAS up to this point. It's either been giving away power, or spiking from MBT to over-advanced. Given it's kept it's head on etc, it's probably giving away power.

Oh yeah, for sure... for the OP that definitely makes sense - but given the original question was asked 4 years ago so I was talking more generally

These days I would expect most ECUs do at least as good a job, have the ability to set other rules to decide how to manage boost control, and various inputs can be used if "on the fly" adjustments are needed - so really I'd not bother with any of them, or upgrade engine management and profit from having generally much better all kinds of stuff as a result.

Good read, albeit clearly telling a story of ups and downs for yourself. The new tuner/setup sounds like it was worth the investment - though as much as I am more of a Link fan than a Haltech one, the upgrade is a bit of a sideways step... is there a specific reason for going the Link? One of the places the Haltech does have an edge over the Links is that they support a higher sampling rate from digital inputs, so running a turbine speed sensor on a Link is a bit of a PITA. You'll need to do some wiring or use a digital->analog signal converter to make sense of the signal from the TSS. A mate has a built RB26/EFR9180 combo going on the dyno in the next day or so before being sent over to Oz for WTAC, they aren't going to go "full send" as its a drift car being built at the last minute - but I'll share some results if appropriate.

Can definitely vouch, the car in the post I quoted above from August uses one of these kits - among plenty of others I know of or have tuned myself. A crank trigger is obviously the penultimate but these have proven more than sufficient and the ease of installation and being a fraction of the price are pretty hard to overlook

There wasn't anything put in there to make it seem like a joke otherwise I would had just lolled. No worries about my level of calm, I just don't like seeing bad advice being left unquestioned... if it wasn't clear to me as a joke then it may not be to others so had to make it clear that it's very wrong - joke or otherwise. I have no idea what that last line is about, but you appear to be confusing me with someone else. I have opinions and friends have opinions, they sometimes overlap and sometimes they don't - whatever you are talking about there is nothing to do with me.

Also Dose Pipe Sutututu: (note, this is not a BW) Overspeeding and compressor surge at high wheel speeds are both things known to break turbos since god knows when - they are why blow off valves exist, and why compressor maps are done with a cut off point which is earlier than where the flow completely chokes. These phenomenon have been recommended to avoid since they have been breaking turbos since WAY before EFRs existed, and have broken pleeeenty of non-EFRs since well after they were released. Telling people that it is only an issue for EFRs is pretty bullshit advice for people you are giving it to, and also a pretty major exaggeration of the fragility of EFRs.

Hi man, any updates? Picked up/driven the car yet? Keen to hear how this is in the real world

Oh very nice, that sounds like a VERY potent combo in the making!

Going by the posts from various dealers they are selling pretty quickly, I am pretty excited to hear how they go as they are the most interesting turbo released by Garrett in AGES imho.

That's pretty impressive, all things considered! The actual 7685 will make things rather interesting

What did you make with the "7675" again?

A mate is going to be trying a Gen2 GTX3076R with 1.01a/r hotside and a G-series turbo for comparisons sake, not 100% sure which but it seems like it could end up being a G30-770 with .83a/r hotside (most similar flow rating to the 1.01 GT30) on a built SR20VE. That should be a relatively interesting comparison.

Even though the more data etc I've seen it turns out there is a heap of misinfo on this (I'd been sucked in, too), it seems very much this isn't like that at all. The overspeed data is all to do with the compressor, nothing to do with the turbine - if people have spat turbines then they have REALLY overdone it, probably due to some other issue. Some cases I've seen have even turned out to be to do with oil starvation f**king the core and everything else being punished for it. I love the idea of the new G-series range but the fact that there are hopes that they will compete with the OG EFR range, and now there is a new series of EFRs which have really stepped it up there are some G-series which could possibly prove to be too little - too late. Look forward to seeing how they perform though as there are some really interesting units in the range, if they aren't a lot laggier than their wheel sizes would have you expect then they could mix things up a fair bit.

Only just spotted this, nice build and some cool data - been looking at the 61mm SX-E thinking that it would be a nice match to an RB30, doesn't look bad. Shame about the leak when it was tuned, it would obviously mess with the overlay a bit - both in terms of lag and power but clearly the EFR is a better turbo overall.

Double edged sword of course, if the boost reduces then the EMAP needs to drop even more to maintain the same IMAP/EMAP ratio. Anyway yeah, I agree overall with the sentiment and in this situation I'd just "feed it to it" in the midrange and bleed off boost up high and have a low revving torque monster.

Looks like the G30s are coming, now.... https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-g30-770/

Awesome, nice work - that is REAL promising Pretty amazing you could get to 470kw at around 114,000rpm with a leak like that - not to mention the spool not sounding that bad considering. Also if it was able to do that with that kind of leak it makes it seem like the hotside will not be any real restriction, if all the air that's being moved actually gets into the engine then the hotside will have to work WAY less. You'll probably get significant gains everywhere, even psi for psi. This is going to be a beast, good luck for next week!

Any updates?

Nitto do a standard stroke full counter crank, may as well do that if you want to swing that way. They have 75.7mm as an option as well

Cool, good luck - that 700whp target should get royally smashed if you end up spinning the turbo as hard as you were with the leak, hopefully a spool improvement too