SkudR33

Good luck with it!

Boost leaks are like cancer to a turbo car... They're a flamin mongrel to deal with!

Did you throw out your old spark plugs? Try throwing them back in - my first ever mistake when I bought my car was my initial home service... I didn't gap the spark plugs properly. Also try doing a warm compression test and leak down test immediately after it starts shitting itself...

You align the gears against the marks by eye but then you need a timing light to set the CAS in the right position [emoji4]

There's some photos of my Bosch setup - sorry for the delay! The coils are Bosch HEC715. I bought 6 of them (brand new) from Microtech on Gladesville for $225.00. Only issue with them is that they don't have an inbuilt igniter so you gotta get them setup through an external igniter.

I cracked the ring landing in between the two compression rings in my rb25det about a year ago - let me tell you, you'll definitely know. It turned my engine into a massive oil pump, literally had oil getting sprayed out of my breathers. It also started sounding like a wrx... Lol

Bosch coilpack conversion is awesome aswell. I did it, looks great + runs great!

Dude I had a similar problem... The washers fell down into the valve Spring seat and they are a bitch to get out... You need one of them inspection cameras to find out if it's fallen in there! I would not risk it because I reckon it will f**k your shit up...

Tucky's Automotive in Seven Hills

I like turtles...

If they put the rb30 engine number, will he then get defected for having an rb25det setup attached to it?

I melted a piston because my fuel line ruptured and she leaned out - I made the upgrade to an 2530... [emoji2]

That's where it's sitting now I reckon - hoping it all goes well from here... Kinda shitting my pants because we all know timing belt problems can ruin a mans day! Lol Thanks for the help guys - I'll definitely keep everybody posted as to how it all goes from here...

I would just apply some sealant to the tip of the stud and screw it back on... You don't wanna sit there tapping and drilling anywhere near oil galleries unless you got some thick grease to catch the metal shavings!

Haha Ben I thought the same thing when I first uploaded the photos... I took the covers off, all was clear - one thing I did notice though is the belt was slightly under tensioned... This was causing it to walk towards the rear of the gears. Good news - The black marks are slowly disappearing now after I retensioned the belt however I believe the belt is coated in this tacky rubber material so I'm going to replace it. One further question, the belt still walks a tiny bit however it now sits in the middle to front region of the cam gears. I can't remember if it used to do that on the rb25... How much walk is considered safe?

Yep [emoji20]

Nice dude - welcome to the forums

Pardon my delay in response guys - had no idea anybody replied to my post... I'm running two tensioner bearings... What I also noticed is both of the bearings have identical rubber transfer marks on them. I think that kinda rules out bearing seizure unless they both seizing at the same time. In terms of the belt sitting towards the rear - I got no idea why it's like that but I've definitely reinstalled the rear shim when I installed the belt... Also turned the car on and had a close look, it seems as though the belt is loose. Either the belt has stretched or one of the tensioners have loosened up.... Would that cause that severe rubber wear though???? I appreciate the replies guys... Love the feedback this club has given me for the last few years - I'll definitely keep you guys filled in if I make anymore interesting discoveries!

Hey guys, Abit of background information - I have an rb2530 that's only done about 2500kms. Due to bonnet clearance I'm no longer able to install the timing covers... Today I was completing a quick lookover though the engine bay and noticed the some rubber marks which have been transferred off my timing belt onto the pulleys... I had a look about 4 weeks ago and these marks weren't existent - since then I've driven the car maybe 2-3 times. Just looking to get some opinions as to why this may be happening and whether or not anybody else has experienced anything similar!

Captain cook is my daddy!

Nah, I'll keep that in mind. Cheers

Hey Jiffo thanks for that. I bought an OEM N1 oil pump from Nissan. I didn't modify the pump at all and using the original gears... I also didn't preprime the pump when I bought it because the Nissan guy said its already primed and it had caps on it which was holding in some sort of lubricant. It terms of what Brett was referring to. I didn't block that valve. Do you recommend I block it? It just hurts to hear my newly built engine rattle on startup lol.

Yeh like blackker said, I'm not running external oil cooler or relocation kit. Is it possibly to plumb the filter in backwards?

Research has shown me that everybody does this so I didn't even think about it. The grub screw is in the head though, so would it effect oil pressure at the sender unit in the block?

Nah dude. Lol educate me, educate me...