kingtube69

I just received my transmission mount in the mail so I'll change it tonight and let you know if that helped at all because it certainly needs replacing

I'm not missing any bolts but I've tried manifold heatshield, Turbo heatshield, bumper, grill etc.. I haven't checked any other heatshields but I noticed my rear engine mount is a bit shot.. Check yours as well to see if there is excessive movement and let me know.

My mate has the same leak, he diagnosed it as rear main and changed it. Since then it's no longer leaking

The vibrating you have at low RPM sounds exactly like mine and my mate also has an R33 with the EXACT same rattle. I have tried many things but can't seem to work it out.. If you get help with this I want help too.. Just letting you know that it's not just you having the issue. Also we have the clunking diffs too hahaha.

Hi Guys, I fitted eccentric bushing caster arms into my R33 recently and thought I would do a very quick write up on it (my first write up so take it easy!) Tools needed: - 17mm socket and accompanying ratchet - 17mm spanner - Pry bar to move the suspension/wheel forward to accommodate for the change in suspension - Soft mallet to make things easier if things are stiff - Jack - Jack stands Time needed: 30 minutes max for a first timer includes finding the right tools, jacking up and packing everything away. Info: An eccentric bushing or bushing with eccentric crush tube is one which offsets the position of the bushing for adjustment - In this case, caster. Before VS After: 1) Jack the car up and place stands under it. Place the stands in a place which will allow you to get under the front wheels safely an with ease 2) Undo the 17mm bolt using two spanners or a ratchet and spanner on each side from the front busing 3) Undo the two 17mm bolts off the studs on the lower control arm 4) Push the caster arm up and out of the way Installation is reverse of removal however depending on how your eccentric bushing is set you will need to move the wheel forward or backwards to get the holes to align. I put my eccentric crush tube in the position that shortens the length of the caster arm. This meant that I had to push the back of the wheel to the front of the car. I also have a video of the old bushings in the stock caster arms which is still uploading but I'll post here when it's done. Let me know if there any improvements for next time! Cheers

Fitted - All well with a noticeable difference Thank you

Whoops! I've never dealt with these type of bushings before so thank you for the information. I'll install them today and book an alignment for the weekend

Hi Guys, I bought a pair of concentric bushing caster arms. These are adjustable through the center (it's rotatable). After speaking to the guy I bought them off he mentioned that the best setup for street would be in the forward most position. I intend on getting a wheel alignment but what is the most accurate method of getting these bushings set to the forward most position (equal per side)? I know how to rotate these, just unsure how to get them equal - I was thinking, laying both out equal on the ground and marking around them and their centers and adjusting till they are equal. Pic of one of the arms is below Any help would be appreciated

My favorite routes Nasho through Heathcoat road but get on at Waterfall (not full run) as I'm sure thousands have said though there is plenty of cops and plenty of animals. Recently discovered old pac which is a great run My all time favorite run will forever Bells line of road, across Darling Causeway and back down to the M4 or in reverse starting at the M4 and going up then across and back down There is a great place on the way up Bells line called apple bar which is a great place to stop in.

R33 is close to 1390 KG and an R32 isn't much lighter. Sorry if this is in the wrong area - Happy for it to go elsewhere. Awesome comebacks... Might even but the oar

Hi All, I cop a lot of boat jokes from my mates (I drive a R33 GTST) - They drive S15s, R32s etc What are your best comebacks to boat jokes? This isn't a thread for boat jokes, rather comebacks to these.

Any pics of the seats?

Any pics of the AVCR? Condition and how old it is?

Hi Mate, Can you find out how much postage will be to Parramatta NSW 2150? I'll take it provided you are happy to post. Also sent message EDIT: I cant see the solenoid in the picture, does it come with this too?

Thank you coupe - I did comment there and completely forgot about it

Also about 90 bucks for replacements (with studs and nuts though) which I think is silly.

I've had a few checks over it as its an ongoing problem. Discs look fine and I've pulled off the pads and given the surfaces a scuff. Also retainer spring on the top - greased the slides too I have nickel anti seize, supposed to be higher temp, is this fine? I dont remember if I tried this but it will be my next shot How tight should the tension be with that spring loaded plate? Mine is TIGHT to say the least. Thanks for the help guys!

They are currently RDA pads but they had Bendix on which were changed as I thought these were the cause. Sounds like the calipers

Hi All, I have had enough of my squealing brakes! It all started when I got the car, there was a very slight squeal, this then turned into the rear pads being worn out to almost the metal. I promptly changed the pads and machined the rotors. This has been ongoing for a while and I have tried most things to get it to stop now I'm at a loss. The pads have shims that came with them, the rotors were machined, slides greased with anti seize. Can anyone assist with what could be causing the issue? It ONLY happens when the brakes are cool. If I bed them in it will stop until the brakes cool down again. HELP! If I have missed anything please let me know.

Hi Guys, I'm looking at buying an Apexi Power intake to go with my recently purchased Apexi Super suction metal intake pipe which was used so it didn't come with the pod and adapter. I want to know if anyone know's the correct part number for the power intake and if it comes with an adapter or not (or if one is even required) to go from AFM to pod? I called a NORMALLY good work shop earlier today and they were beyond rude when I spoke to them. Please don't flame me with "why did you do that, you don't need a pod" I didn't come here for a debate on the topic just asking a question. Thank you

do you happen to have the instructions for this? I bought a used one without instructions. I'm guessing its straight forward to install just wanna make sure.

I love these wheels, its a shame they are in gold though and you're in melbourne GLWS

Lol i completely read this wrong.

I believe the closer it is to the bar the stiffer so looking at that photo the hole on the right.

Where are the relays for the pump guys?