kingtube69

I didn't post pics the other day for some reason but Nismo FPR Gauge Wastegate actuator - I need this because I don't want to be running 20 pound all day every day. I know someone else who installed the same actuator with the same turbo without issues. Extra springs of different pressure. Ideally I'll be putting the 15psi spring in and running low boost at wastegate pressure and full boost between 18 and 20. Manifold studs - I bought them from a place in QLD if I had realised they would drop ship from GCG I would have picked them up from GCG myself considering these took over 3 weeks to get to me. I also fitted my Nissan Genuine OEM clutch master cylinder then Ordered my HEL Braided clutch line today, Ordering my clutch kit tomorrow night, Nismo pivot etc.. Then we do the clutch Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday.. ON THE FLOOR WITH NO HOIST Pics and updates to come when we do the clutch then turbo shortly after. Then I'll order the injectors and send it for a tune. Completion date for this work is aimed to be the 20th November.

Scotty's customs! Based in Melbourne and does great work. Also on the forum! http://scottyscustoms.com.au/product/80mm-alloy-intake/

Let me know how you go with the belts. Pretty easy but either the A/C or the P/S (I can't remember which one) is an absolute bitch. You have to get it from the side. I found it easier to unbolt the whole damn tensioner by itself

Hi Sonicz, I ended up going the bigger pump to get prepared for E85 - My goal is to get between 275 and 300 KW on pump fuel and over that on 85 in the near future. I straight away had issues with how the car is running (would miss and so on). I then went out and got a Nismo FPR and gauge etc. Modified the flow to be 43PSI base but the car is still running a bit how do you do on boost. It will be going for a tune in the next month or so and it hardly gets driven so I'm hoping it should be fine up until then. Once tuned I would guess that it will be back to normal/running right again. Thank you for your message, I should have held off putting the pump in and left it to the tuners to do if I had known earlier

Scrap that car is still missing pretty badly. I'll change the plugs and get some fresh fuel soon. I changed the clutch master cylinder the other day and it feels so much better now.

PM Sent

Any pics of the injectors? Any proof of purchase (date etc)

After installing the pump the car was running a bit how do you do. I looked around and spoke to a few people and they mentioned that the stock fuel regulator could be failing or couldn't be keeping up with the return flow. I ordered a Nismo FPR to keep the stock look and the a gauge and installed it today. The car seriously runs a lot better - its practically day and night comparison.

Replied to your personal message - Hado - that would be sweet if you could bring it back to Sydney As with Danny I'd happily contribute to petrol money. Where abouts are you located in Sydney out of curiosity?

That would be awesome!

Thank you!

Hi All, I'm looking at getting a tune done on my car and also a new clutch to cope with the power. I will be getting JEM to do the work but wanted to know does the clutch have to be done and broken in then on a separate occasion the tune done or can the clutch and tune be done at the same time? I'm thinking that the clutch won't be abused getting a tune so it would be OK to get the tune at the same time. Thanks in advance.

Oh - I didn't realise it would also help with spool! I guess its good for me then too The car is running quite rich which I'm guessing has something to do with the new pump as it ran fine before that so I've ordered a fuel pressure gauge to check

New BOV installed - Just a Plumback to replace the stock BOV for when I increase the boost and to keep it with the stock theme

GTR wheels. GTST are 6 or 6.5 wide

On the back it will have the dimensions. GTR wheels are wider than GTST wheels

I've never had a major issue with them. I bought a few things once off them, one seemed to be missed in the delivery. I emailed them a 9:30 at night and the next morning someone called me. Love their work.

Just an update on this I got stung pretty badly by the alignment shop because of these bushes. They said it took ages to adjust therefore cost more because they kept having to remove and reinstall.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around it all but It seems to be fine to me. I just need to confirm the voltage but the priming works (senses no crank so only primes and doesnt run on) I've spoken to Scotty and he confirmed that what I intend on doing is how it needs to be done. I just took the car out for a drive and it runs as expected (normal) Thanks for the help guys!

Hmm but that's not recommended right? I have the grey wire which I'm assuming is the earth going to my relay in addition to the blue wire so going by what you said, its not bypassed right? EDIT: Mine is like Cals on page 14 of this post http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91993-fuel-pump-direct-feed-rewire/page-14 Correct me if I'm wrong looks to be fine though Sorry OP for hijack.

Hmm, this is what I understood was to be used based on the diagrams on the fuel pump rewire.. I thought that would leave the FPCM in tact therefore if the engine stops it wont keep pumping fuel. Are you able to draw a diagram or explain in greater detail? Are you talking about the trigger wire on the ECU in the kick panel itself (run a wire to the back of the car etc etc etc)? Used this as a comparison and it looked ok with the exception of the SSR http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234796-re-wiring-your-fuel-pump/ Edit edit edit (third time now ) I think I see what you mean, maybe I'm reading it wrong. The SPST relay is an additional one I ran as per the link above. The SSR would go in before this and power up the SPST relay which is recently installed.. Does this make sense? To me its no different to the setup in the link but with the addition of the SSR to trigger the magnetic SPST relay instead...

If I'm understanding correctly it should look like this The idea is that the voltage coming from the standard wiring is significantly less than the voltage needed to keep the SPST/SPDT relay closed under load and that a solid state being a relay because it doesnt use a magnetic coil to close the circuit and copes better with small voltage levels making it suitable to use as a relay to charge the SPST/SPDT relay. Correct me if I'm wrong unless there is a better way to do this all

Thanks KD, I was talking to Scott and he mentioned that the relay wont energize properly on the low power coming from the FPCM so it would be better to use a solid state relay then energize the fuel pump relay with that. I haven't changed it yet but I'll just keep an eye on it all and see how it goes for now! Stay tuned, I'll be doing the turbo, clutch and a few other things in the next few days

Looks very good

Finished off my fuel pump work tonight The pump wasn't that hard to do at all. I struggled with the stupid collar more than anything. I also took some more pictures of the turbo below. Not a lot of people are commenting here but I think it's worthwhile to keep some sort of online log about my car.