GTRsean

He's getting Mark at MRC to do the work. Going to be interesting, NA screamer LOL. Apparently an RB26 harmonic balancer is essential due to revs he's hoping to pull (7500ish). Think he's aiming for 100 HP per litre.

Oh, also cleaned, inspected and rebuilt starter motor too. They seem to be tough except for the plastic bits, damn mitsubishi.

Okay, pulled more parts off today. Started with harmonic balancer which was seized on the crank due to bolt being loose. Poured boiling water on the balancer and tried pulling it off. It came off : ). The belt had not slipped like I wrote earlier, the crank, cam drive gear had sheared the key in the keyway and was slipping that way. Crank should be okay to clean up as the keyways are still okay.(Will find out if it's an R33 engine for sure after checking oil pump drive fingers crossed) All the intake manifold and throttle bodies came of easy enough. Everything got marked so I don't mix em up. All of the water, vac pipes will get changed too (never avoid changing hoses!). AAC valve was in fair nick, but it'll get cleaned up too.

Hmm, sounds like a plan. Anyone got a set of stock rods with ARPs ready to get rid of!! Got the money ready!!! Spool/Eagle H beams are apparently around 100 grams lighter each than stockers, less rotating weight??

Not looking forward to getting the replacement seals, gaskets etc!! I have already got idler and tensioner bearings from CBC in Eastern Creek a while back. Have a new gates belt too. Looking st getting Tomei 1.0mm headgasket and inlet, throttle body, exhaust steel gasket set from Hi Octane.

I think I popped a few veins on that one lol. A bit of paint flaked on the edges but I just touched it up, all sweet.

Aiming for an engine that is good for street, drag, and touring with no more than 8500rpm and 550-600 hp at the crank. It was already making 352Rwkw on 17 psi. I prefer to do this now than when it fails due to something else (piston or spun bearing etc) and cost goes up. Still sorting out what to do. But so far plans are: Disassemble and inspect condition of internals, and clearances. clean inspect and machine block Tomei metal gasket kit and 1mm head gasket (8.7:1 comp ratio) nissan gasket kit Forged pistons ACL? 86.5mm stock rings oversize nissan or N1 bearings stock rods with tomei bolts Arp head and cradle fasteners sump baffle kit head oil restrictor new oil pump N1? inspect and rebuild head valve guides stem seals new n1 springs port match and cleanup

Yep sure was. Finally got to use my engine stand! Cheers for the offer Chris .

First time for me so all up it took me nearly 10 hours total with me working on it. Pain in the proverbial. A few pointers, I separated g box and left the prop shaft to the front diff in as I couldn't get the shaft nuts undone. This meant that I had to remove both engine mounts to clear the crossmember. I forgot about the power steering connector lol. Front right drive shaft, I pulled the front diff cover off to lever the cv shaft out of the spider gear.

Looked em up a while back, you're on the money. Can stock rings be fitted? Cheers

Ha ha cheers. Yeah had plenty of practice pulling and swapping turbos in GTR's lol. Hows your forged engine going?

Good point about pistons. I try not to do short trips in this car so maybe I just might bite the bullet and go forged. It was putting out 352Rwkw with stock bottom end so I just need to find a piston that can run tight skirt to bore clearance and stock rings. Just don't want a slapper. I have read other posts and CP/ARIAS etc seem to be the go, but any input would be great.

Hey guys. After 4 years of driving as a daily it's finally time to pull the rb out and see how it's going. The timing belt tension was not right when it was replaced a while back and it seems to have worn the crank gear and thrown out cam timing. Even after the belt was retensioned it skipped again and ended up 3 teeth out on both cams when crank was at TDC. It felt like a really laggy car when this happened and slow. Top end rpm and peak power wasn't affected, but I had barely any vacuum on the gauge at idle due to the slipped belt. To add to that, the harmonic balancer has seized on the crank due to the bolt being loose. The key and keyways are still lined up though. Will pull it off when I put some dry ice in the front of crank and heat up balancer. Engine is still stock internally other than cams, so it will be interesting to see how it's going inside. It has and engine number that is common with r33 GTR engine serial, so I'm hoping it's the wide oil pump drive crank. Build up will be mostly stock as it's a daily driver, so new stock pistons, rings, rods will stay. Stronger fasteners and metal gaskets will be used though. Guess I'll find out when I pull it apart and see what condition it's in. As you can see space is precious. I'll post pictures as I go. Cheers.

We used liquid spray on polishing liquid like maguires brand stuff. It came with the clay bar so some liquid spray on polish would work.

go cart + GSXR 1100 motor = mental patient http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE26moshnO8

True, I'm my own workshop. Saves some $$$ Pays to have a workshop manual too.

My diff got fins too.It's normal. Bilsteins you can buy quite easily. Done the rear cradle on mine too. I had access to a hoist and a 50 ton hyd press, it was fun!!! No more loose feeling back end FTW.

Got a hold of a stock one already and put it in. Had to find a center bearing bracket, sss automotive helped there. I can even drop it off to you guys if you pm me where to go, I wanna see the beast lol.

os gikken tripple for the win lol. 100,000k and 4 years daily driver, still going strong lols. Would like a sprung center though to soften the blow on the gearbox, drivetrain etc when driving hard.

You guys want to save another 4KGs??? I've got a one piece tailshaft, chromemolly that I had in my car for a while. Bit more drivetrain noise than a stock shaft but hey, race cars are noisy. It was balanced to 300km/h and originally purchased from uas. I'll donate it for your racer if you guys are interested.

Drools.....I want one!

Had my car nearly 4 years now. Bought it with 65,000 on the aftermarket speedo. Now has 167,000. Same engine as when I bought it, just service every 3000k. On my second gearbox I got rebuilt at the moment. Happy cruising guys.

Typical testosterone fuelled keyboard bashing I guess.

Bout time. We don't need that sort of thing on here.

You got it. o2's only kick in at steady throttle inputs, when cruising at a constant speed(RPM). Still pays to tune light throttle.