Iron Chef

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...va-t156625.html

Dude, Glad Wrap, jeez.... Back to the topic, I suspect it would actually be LESS effective than a conventional set up at high speed. I don't know how to explain the technical terms (help me out here, physics students!) but equate it to how difficult it is to breath when you're walking into a very strong wind....

They're not eligible currently, but theoretically they could be. Given that Y34s are off to a pretty slow start (which is unfortunate - they're excellent cars), I'd think you'd have a hard time convincing a workshop to take one on as a test car. The C35 Laurel on the other hand...

You can't have your cake and eat it too. Dealers spend a lot of their own money bringing cars in from Japan - they're not going to give them away for the same money (or less even) it costs to import them.

Yep - I got to keep the rims though. The new owner has bought wider ones

Spotted yesterday arvo on North East Road - a tough white M35 on what looked very much like Work XT7s to me. I was in the Y34 with stock rims on, delivering to its new owner

They finished in 1993, when the R33 sedan was released. Only the R32 GT-Rs continued on into 94.

I like the theory about how removing the supports when installing a FMIC is somehow more dangerous than mounting an intercooler in the middle of your bonnet and obscuring a good chunk of your forward vision... Looks stupid, IS stupid.

lol I was wondering how long it would take for the rotary Nazis to wander in here and start defending the reliability of their motors. I've owned an R100, two RX-3s, a 13B turbo RX-2 (Fast Fours Project Pizza Delivery, for those old enough to remember), a S1 RX-7 and a S8 RX-7, so I'd say I'm in a reasonable position to comment. There's a lot more to owning an old school rotor than how reliable the motor is (for the record, they're just as reliable as any other motor when serviced at the correct intervals). Firstly, the fuel consumption is woeful - I defy any rotary owner to tell me otherwise. If you're going to spend 90% of your time stuck in traffic, you're better off keeping the rotor for weekend thrashes and buying something cheap and economical as a daily. Secondly, as someone mentioned before, you're talking about 30 year old cars these days - parts are difficult to come by, and expensive to purchase when you do. For your own survival as much as anything else, make sure all the safety-related components have been modified (suspension, brakes etc) because hitting something at high speed in one would be far more disastrous than if you were in a car built in the last 10 years. Thirdly, I wouldn't be leaving them in a public car park if you wanted to see the car still there when you finished work. You can install all the alarms in the world, but that doesn't change the fact that any 15 year old with a length of blue packing tape could be inside your car in under 20 secs. They were designed in a time where theft (in Japan at least) wasn't a very big issue. My search in Japan still continues for an R130 Luce

To the OP, if you need to ask this question, you really shouldn't be buying one. I'm sorry, but an old-school rotor is probably one of the worst daily drivers you could choose.

They have, but most SA people hang out in the SA section, where you should've posted this thread... TO answer your question, you'll need to get it engineered. Speak to Doug Potts at Australian Technology P/L.

That's pretty much what it means, yes.

lol isn't it Geoff? You suck at giving free plugs...

You're gonna have to find one at auction because your budget is so tight - forget looking around at dealers or other websites. as they're either cars that don't exist, or over-priced rubbish. Most of the guys on here will have access to a number of sources, none of which are available to the average internet surfer. We all know your budget - let whichever broker you choose do the calculations in yen for you accordingly. And remember that beggars can't be choosers

You'll be struggling, to be honest, even from a broker. I can give it a shot, but you'd have to really snag it cheap if you wanted something half decent. Don't hold out for a TV either - condition of the car should always be the most important deciding factor, rather than features.

I won't tell you what I'm paying on the N1...

Insurance premiums...one of the few benefits of getting older....

Even the springs alone make a BIG difference.

My response is that the mounting positions for restraint hooks are also good mounting spots for harnesses In all seriousness, I haven't dealt with that scenario, so I can't give you an answer on it. Common sense would suggest you don't have to bother.

^^That VIN doesn't include the chassis number - go grab it from the firewall.

I think Vu was referring to his own 40th Anniversary R33

I agree! Powers-that-be, give us a section!!

So you're happy advertising the fact that you've forged a tyre placard so you can run illegal rims, on a public forum? You better hope the police can't read...

My tip is to go down to Regency (the ServiceSA centre) and find out what work you actually need to do before taking the car in for the inspection. If your restraints aren't done, then you'll definitely be sent away and asked to come back for another inspection when all the work required is done.

Haven't heard a thing from them yet...