foznice

oh.. thats why they call it a MIDNIGHT sale.. cos they close at midnight.. as opposed to starting at midnight.. im an idiot.

huh? what time do they close?

I heard that with turbo's you don't need to worry about backpressure? I don't understand how or why? or even what the deal is with backpressure.. maybe someone could explain that... but that's what i've heard

the story goes like this: My car - r32gtst came over without a belt thrown over the AC compressor, and a lot of cooked rubber stuck to that particular corresponding section on the crank pulley. So I bought a new belt dayco belt for the AC Compressor.. So I took the PS belt off, no problems there.. then the alternator belt/water pump belt, still no problems. And I began working away at all the cooked rubber on the crank pulley. Because I was working away at the crank pulley, I was working at it from underneath the car, with a knife and a wire brush, picking/scratching all the little bits of rubber from the crank pulley.. because I was working underneath the car, I only have access to a certain section of the crank... So I would clean a section of the pulley, crank the starter motor quickly without starting the engine, and hopefully expose an uncleaned part of the crank for me to clean.. So I cranked it once, cleaned it, all good.. Second time I hear a pop, and looking throught the gap in the bonnet (from inside the drivers seat, I see smoke shoot out from somewhere within the engine.. I was like f**k.. then I got around to the engine and tried to work out where the smoke was coming from. At the time, I had the second pipe that connects to the plenum off (RB20DET, the one that runs from lower right corner of the engine bay, to the curvey elbow pipe before the plenum) - because I had to get the powersteering, as well as the vaccum hoses from the emissions box and, as well as the power steering and alternator/water pump belts. The smoke seemed to be coming from the intake pipe that was still connected to the engine, and it smelt like a burning smell (rubber or plastic burning)... Now the only thing that I can think of, is that maybe a little piece of rubber SOMEHOW got into the intake while the pipe was off, and became part of the combustion process, what I don't understand, is that if this was the case why would all the smoke be backfireing out through the intake, as oppposed to the exhaust.. So I really have no idea what the f**k it was. I put the pipe and vaccum hoses back on for the remainder of the time when I was cleaning the pulley and cranking the engine, just incase something managed to get into the engine.. Upon reconnection the altternater/water pump belt, I started the engine and let it idle to see if everything was cool, It idled at 1,500RPM.. I then went to put the AC belt on and realized that it would NOT fit... So all this crap was completely for NOTHING!!!!! then I put the powersteering back on with no problems.. So now, everything is back together, and the car idles at 1,100RPM, however I didn't give it much time to see if it would drop down to or so, and I haven't run it around the block yet (but I will). Things seem to be OK at the moment, I was just wondering if maybe what happened with the smoke - if that was something really obvious to people, is there anything that I might have missed, should be doing should be checking... It may seem ok now, but what if it's something waiting to explode/breakdown/whatever when I'm sitting at the bottom of a hill? Thanks

I knew I was doing something wrong, stupid pivot bolt, me belts fine, I need to take this belt off to replace the AC belt so I can't cut the P/s belt to get to the pivot bolt unfortunatley... looks like I'll have to do trial and error cranking... oh well thanks for the guide.. you probably saved me another couple of hours

no it dosn't. I have that exact same BOV on my r32 gtst, with that pipe.. as in the pipe is in the same position as it would in the 33, but is a different shape.

I see... well that sucks.. if some of the demand for SR20's shifts to RB20's.. then the price of RB20's goes up.. that means engine parts go up.. grrrrrrr

Yeah, 1990-1993gtst is LEGAL, or is it 1991-1993?? I can never remember but yeah LEGAL. As for me.. I'm a learner too (but I'm 18 in 12mintues) and P's in a couple of weeks.. I always learnt manual right from the word go.. I don't think it's hard to pick up, and you should be able to learn with a driving instructor.. someone mentioned before, that driving instructors are only good for road rules.. this is true in some cases.. the way I see it, is that when your first starting out (or learning manual) they actually teach you and have advice and stuff, but when you are going for your driving test, they start to teach you how to pass if you know what I mean... I'd say go with plan 2... it means that you can get your r32 sooner, and at the same time you still get to drive

I agree with big rizza.

just out of curiosity, why did you decide to buy an Rb20 over an SR20 like most silvia/180 drivers who convert from CA's?

Happy Birthday Jack, I've only met you once so far - when you towed my 32 from a compliance centre to Hurstbridge for a very fair price.. which is much appreciated. Hope you had a great birthday, and that I'll get to say Hi again soon

I recently imported also, and the first thing I did was change the engine oil... The motul turbolight 10w40 seems to be very popular amongst SAUers so I chucked that in. The engine seems to be running well as far as I can tell. I'm just wondering, what's the theory behind flushing the engine out and using a differnt weighted oil accordingly?

thats cos you can't hear it very well with your stock exhaust Im not a fan of the radio at all.. I sometimes listen to triple R and triple J.. oh and godFM cos of my silly jap radio...

hmmm well I think the power restictions are sensible: eg. 125kw/tonne limmit.. and I thought that this was fine.. I think that this blanket banning is crap.. because as people have mentioned there are many cars that are not that powerfull that are turbocharged, and many NA cars that are powerfull...point being, if this is true, it's most likely politcal propoganda aimed at the middleaged for votes.

pfft CLEARLY it's 4-square.. the amusing thing is .. I still played it on occasion this year...

someone link me.. I haven't seen much on ebay.. probably because I don't look that hard... but meh.

that looks really really good... great work

with it only ever blowing hot air, is this something that only started recently, or every since you've owned the car? My 32gtst was imported a few months back and came over with this problem, as have have many other 32 owners I have spoken to. There was a thread in the vic section a while back, where someone said that there is a plug behind the stereo/climate control, that isn't plugged into another plug.. which supposedly causes the hot air... My situation: I bought the car knowing that 'AC compressor not good'.. when the car came over and I got to see it in the flesh, I noticed that for starters there was no belt running around the compressor and idler, and that where it connected to the crank pulley, there was a shitload of cooked rubber.... Upon further inspection, I noticed that the compressor span very freely (and looks like it has been replaced not too long ago after looking underneath the car).. but the idler had seized up... So I took the new idler off, popped out the old, seized bearing and got a new one for six dollars.. now the idlers back in and I've bought a belt but haven't put it on yet.. as I need to clean all that cooked rubber off the crank pulley with paint stripper... Upon taking the center console surround off, I noticed that there where several plugs that were unplugged and I couldn't find anything else (except for a few days later when I found it under the dash...grr).. I also noticed that an actuator seemed to be disconnected... SO this may well be the reason for the hot air... Not this week, but the next, I'll have the belt back on and the system regassed, and I'll check plugs and stuff behind the dash.. I'll post back here if I remember.. In my case also, even when the climate control unit is turned off, freakin hot air still blows in.. To prevent this I leave the climate control off, but turn the recircultion thingy on and then wind the windows down.. So all air from outside is closed off at least...

ah well.. there ya go.. TOF's done it for me.

looks ok.. but those photo's aren't the best quality.. I don't have a very good idea of how much stock gts4's sell for over here, but 12k to me seems quite reasonable.. I would definatly go and have a look at it.. also forgot to mention before.. there is an excellent guide to shopping for a skyline in the tutorials section.. definatly worth looking at.. pity im too lazy to link it for you....

mecahincal inspection is definalty a go... but the main things to watch out for with r32's are rust: check all the places where you might find water to accumulate, as well as underneath the car... check the bushes too, it's quite common for these to go, and apparently the japanese don't change them for some reason... :S make sure you have a drive in the car when it's cold, I have spoken to alot of r32 drivers (including myself) who have very worn synchros that are much more noticeable when the car is cold.. eg my 32gtst won't go into second when it's cold at all, but when it warms up second is incredibly smooth.. so if i wanted to be dodgy when selling the car, I would take it out quickly before the potentiall buyer arrives and warm it up, so that if they test drive they won't notice anything (not that I would actually do this.. but it could happen) Listen for noisy thrust bearing too.. put the car in neutral and press the clutch - listen to the engine.. then release the clutch while it is still in neutral. If you hear a sort of strangish noise.. this is apparently a telltale sign of a worn thrust bearing (yes my gearbox has this also)... If the 32 your looking at has a sunroof, make sure you carefully check that sills are in roughly good nik.. at least so that it's water tight.. They are expensive to repair if leaking. Other than that.. just remember the normal things that you would look for in any car, signs of accident damage (check in the little compartment where the jack is for tail light lens), respray bla bla bla.. also make sure you look underneath the car.. I would definatly recomend a mechanical inspection if possible, there are alot of dodgy roadworthy places out there.. if you can't fault anything, go and get an RACV, or NRMA check.. It will cost you 100/200 dollars, but it will be well worth it if it stops you from buying a lemon... hope this helps

happy birthday paul.. only 29days till mine.. and if FREAKIN VIcroads would be open on saturdays I wouldn't have to worry about waiting another TWO days for my license.. GRRR!! but happy birthday

...looking at the picture in your avatar, you have a type-m .. assuming it's your car... standard 32gtst's are pretty rare.. As xRhettx has already pointed out the front breaks are four-pot's on the type M's and two-pots ( I think?) on the standard gtst's. other things to look for are sideskirts, frontbar, rims, leather steering wheel, climate control... there's a shitload of extra's... as far as I know the parking guide (thing that goes up or down) is also an extra on both cars.. your intercooler should be located (facing the car) on the inside of the right hand side of the frontbar.. if you follow the piping from the airbox you will find it alright...

I like it as ricey as it is... except the tail lights too.. what's with the creative stickers on the bonnet and skirting?

I really miss speed too.. I started off reading HPI then I got hooked on speed.. only bought about 3 issues before it got disconinued.. I loved the content, and I especially liked the way that it was presented - professionally with nice photography, unlike HPI looked a bit more cheap.