MotHot

Turbine wheel broke I suppose?

Hey Tai! Just finished reading your thread on soarercentral from start to finish. Very nice build and a lot of cool selfmade stuff in there. The electronic wastegate actuator is awesome, but setting it up + 3d printing parts for it is way out of my league. Another question though: With your latest dyno session, whats the turbo shaft speed that your speed sensor is reading at max? Thanks and have a nice weekend!

I thought the supra parts were already a few hundred bucks alone? Do you have a list of items that are needed for the e-iwg? Can't seem to find anything useful with google.

@Timmaz300 looking really good so far, keep up the good work! @all: A friend of mine is collecting parts at the moment to go for about 600 (engine) hp and has snacked up a 8374 IWG. What are the options for the wastegate actuator on the IWG EFRs? Electronic actuator (with supra parts) as suggested in this thread in late August will probably be too expensive for him (500+ $/€ ?), because he just spent loads of money on parts. Are there even any complete kits available now or is it still "do it yourself"-style? The OEM actuator on the EFRs are the known weakpoint on the IWG EFRs, at least thats what this thread and similar threads on other forums suggest. So I wouldn't recommend this to him. If he does go this route, he will definetely need the high boost canister, because otherwise he wouldn't even be able to reach around 15 psi?! This leaves us with conventional aftermarket actuators, for example from turbosmart. Twin Port is probably the way to go here, because the price difference is not that big. Right? What about the position sensor? Is this necessary on a road car or similar to the BW turbo speed sensor (not a must, but very nice to have) or not necessary at all? Is there a noable difference in performance between the GenV and the IWG-75 twin port turbosmart actuator? Thanks guys 🙂 And regards from Germany!

How much more work is it to get something like this setup working? I bought a turbosmart actuator for my IWG 7064 (on a rb25det), which I haven't installed yet. Not sure if I should go to an electronic actuator instead.

In what use cases does an electronically controlled wastegate make the most sense? Small engine w/ small turbo, sm engine /w big turbo, big engine w/ sm turbo, big engine w/ big turbo?

Any idea where the little dip from 4,4-4,6k rpm comes from?

Wow, lots of up's and down's in this thread. Respect for not giving up. Hope its finally coming out the way you want it. Keep up the good work!

Read through the whole thread in 2 days staight. Must say - really great car and appreciate you sharing the build. Looking forward to more dyno numbers and drag times!

Great looking car. Already a lot of personal touches. Keep it up!

Slightly offtopic - is that a tablet in the center console? If yes, what software does it use to display stuff? Windows or Android and what app? Thanks ? @Topic: My car currently has some issues with my IWG 7064 spooling about ~600 RPM later than normal. Had full boost @ around 3k RPM before, now it feels laggier and has full boost @ around 3,6-3,7k RPM. Feels a little like running a silencer. Already checked exhaust (running 3" custom made with exhaust flap) for problems, but catalysator is still intact, flap still working as intended and no other blockages. Intake side of turbo looks normal, exhaust side would need downpipe removal (didn't do that yet). Collegue mentioned it could be the spring in the wastegate actuator is either not preloaded correctly (screws would have to come lose?) or just can't hold the wastegate shut at low RPM. It has about 20k miles on it already, so who knows? Looking at getting a turbo smart 2 port actuator anyway, so will be probably tackle that over the next week/months. Sadly you need a new 4-port mac valve as well for that, which the my local supplier doesn't sell. Another thing to change would be the amount of blow off valves I have (yeah, you read that right) - I'm currently using the internal EFR blow off, as well as a HKS SSQV. Local supplier wondered how the hell we got that setup working and strongly suggested to remove one of the blow offs. Which will probably be the EFR blow off, not for technical reasons but mainly for the nicer sound of the HKS (form/sound follows function for me on this one). Current spec list (no changes since the last mapping session till the problem presented itself some time ago): RB25DET Neo (OEM pistons, Eagle rods, ARP head studs, Cosworth metal head gasket) Borg Warner EFR 7064 T3 IWG 6boost exhaust manifold Plazmaman intake manifold (noname) big FMIC Apexi air intake 7xx cc Bosch injectors LS2 coils Walbro fuel pump Tomei Poncams Type B (260° In/Ex, 9,15 Lift In/Ex) custom 3" downpipe & exhaust Link G4 ECU May be someone wants to take a guess ?

Great thread, read the last few pages. Good to see someone doing proper maintenance work Only thing that I'd like is bigger pictures of the car!

Wow, shocked to see you had a crash in the old car. Glad you didn't get hurt too bad. Excited to see what you make out of the new car(s)

Oohh, shiny Looking forward to your results, hope everything comes together nicely!

Ah, okay. Yes, dwell was adjusted for the LS2. What kind of power are you looking to make and what did the HTA previously make? I'd be more than concerned to turn the boost up with a stock engine. Sweet

So good to start seeing this thread take off again @Lithium: Nice work so far. Hoping to see a 20 PSI dyno this weekend And now i know what to order next for my 7064 setup to finally hold to the door uh i mean boost... Also 300KW at the wheels will most likely need a little over 20 PSI. I made 285 @ the wheels with about 21 PSI, when I had the stock manifold on my RB25 Neo. Wasn't pushed to the limit though, as we had no EGT and started getting misfires at above 23 PSI. Actually the misfire issue is still persisting with my current setup (plazmaman intake, 6boost exhaust manifold). Doesn't matter if I use splitfires (mileage unknown) or LS2 coils either... will get the CAS replaced in the next weeks, but not sure if that will solve anything.

Not sure on that, but could be possible. I had this running from mid 2015 till mid 2016. Short spec list: RB25DET Neo (OEM pistons, Eagle con rods, ARP head studs, Cosworth metal head gasket) Borg Warner EFR 7064 T3 IWG OEM intake & exhaust manifold big FMIC (noname?) Apexi pod air filter OEM R35 GTR injectors (570cc) Walbro in tank fuel pump Z32 AFM Tomei Poncams Type B (260° In/Ex, 9,15 Lift In/Ex) custom 3" stainless steel downpipe 100 or 200 cell cat (not sure which, very budget piece nonetheless) Blitz Nür Spec R exhaust Results from a roller dyno mid 2015, see below. Its all german, so i'm gonna help you guys out a bit: DIN-Leistung = crank HP Rad-Leistung = wheel HP The rest should be pretty obvious. This run was with max boost of about 1.5 bar / 22 PSI. Dropping off to around 1,3 bar / 19 PSI at max RPM. Did another run on low boost (1 bar / 14,5 PSI) that yielded 353 PS / 260 KW / 474 NM at the crank, 314 PS / 231 KW at the wheels. The graph doesn't really show how it drove on the street: Boost coming on from about 2K RPM and 1 bar / 14,5 PSI at 3K RPM, full boost before 3500 RPM. Exactly what I wanted :-) As you can see from the dyno sheet, after 6K RPM boost is falling off. Probably because the exhaust side is too small for the RB25.

Keep in mind there is very (!) limited room when using a 7064 or 7670 with the OEM manifold on the RB25, even more so on the R34 GTT than on the R33 GTST (strut tower on the R34 is about 1,5cm closer to the engine). Not sure if using an adaptor to go twinscroll would make it easier or harder. The 7163 is a smaller turbo (shorter as well), because it's B1 frame and not B2 frame like the 7064 and bigger. I have a 7064 T3 on my OEM manifold on the R34 GTT at the moment, but wouldn't do it again. We even had to remove the AC because making the downpipe with the AC in would have been much harder (though probably not impossible). Other than that my EGT are way high, not sure why that is, but decided to go 6 boost top mount + plazmaman intake anyway. Edit: If I had to choose again, I'd probably go 7163 (wasn't available at the time I purchased my 7064). Pictures attached for reference (BW EFR 7064 T3 IWG, OEM manifold RB25DET Neo, R34 GTT).

Need the 200 cell cat to meet german regulations. Can't afford to get caught without a cat, because all hell will break lose if they get you. Power FC and Link were tuned by a separate person, who both tried to get the temperatures down putting in more timing, which helps to a degree but it's still far off. Link tuner says he's had several cars with Garret turbos on the OEM manifold reaching ~500 BHP with 900-950°C. Can't use E85 because you german government changed taxes since the beginning of 2016 and almost no gas stations offer it anymore.

Anyone using a 7064 on a RB25DET (Neo) with stock exhaust manifold? Still struggling very much with the EGT on mine. I get well over 1000°C after a very short amount of WOT (like one 4th gear pull), at which point I'm quickly backing off. Spec list: RB25DET Neo (OEM pistons, Eagle rods, ARP head studs, Cosworth metal head gasket) Borg Warner EFR 7064 T3 IWG OEM exhaust manifold (noname) big FMIC Apexi air intake R35 GTR OEM injectors (570cc) Splitfire coils Walbro fuel pump Tomei Poncams Type B (260° In/Ex, 9,15 Lift In/Ex) Z32 AFM custom downpipe (ebay) 200 cell metal catalyst Blitz Nur Spec R Apexi EGT gauge Apexi Power FC Since installing the EGT gauge early this year, the following has been changed, currently to no success: LS2 coils 200 cell metal catalyst from a german company called HJS, who offer very high quality products custom 76mm catback Link G4+ with MAP sensor Will spend another half day tomorrow to figure out what is going on...

Thanks.

So what kind of EGT are you guys getting on your EFRs? Trying to find out what would be acceptable in the long run. But so far no "precise" values to be found? Reason I'm asking is, my PTP turbo blanket is pretty much done after only ~5000km (may be ~100km on track/hard driving).

Nice updates, looking forward to testing and your impressions

Looking good mate! Keep the updates coming

Nice to see that you're writing updates, sweet