some_cs_student

Battery replacement in most electric cars is often underestimated ($$$) wise by the dealers so be careful if you do go ahead...

Illegal in Vic, not ADR approved, same with fiberglass. You may get away with it though, but its not legal...

Just re-read the first page, the Motul 4100 is listed as a group II, motul 8100 is rated well, no idea about 4100. Castrol Edge isn't the best oil, see the first page again, but high group levels are better.... Try this in google: site:bobistheoilguy.com motul 4100 Unfortunately the website is down but when it's up you will get very technical discussions on the different oil types. I've never done engine flushes, most of what I read say's don't do it, some say do it with a cheapish oil, just drain your existing oil completely and replace and you should be fine, along with the filter...

EDIT: Different plug, looked a bit like the one I had which I could never find out what it did, as per this thread

See above post for a price from a forum seller, also have a look at the 2860-9's, HKS GTSS equivalent, not sure where to get them though...

I can't wait for them all to take the extra annual leave they built up . They're cracking down extremely hard to try and reduce the statistics for the Christmas period which I'm fine with, but I don't like the way they're going about it at all...

I wish I could get my body fat level that low I had a bit of difficulty putting on muscle but I've put on a bit recently and made some strength gains, still have a lot to learn as I've only been training "properly" (or what I think is proper) for about a year or less. I haven't started doing recovery weeks, I really should... Not 100% sure on the creatine, but I haven't had that kind of issue (yet) with it, but as mentioned I'm not taking it daily, 3 times a week and very small doses, so its probably not doing much but it *seems* to help, I should probably just improve my diet and stop using those supplements Great, so do I

Simple test, switch the ignition on, do you hear the fuel pump prime? Yes? Unlikely to be a problem with the pump. No? If the battery's ok then you might want to have a look at the fuel pump, is power getting to it? You can try directly wiring positive/negative from the battery to the fuel cell thing (the part the wires in the boot plug into which go to the pump, be careful) will let you test if its working. However, I do agree that its a good chance you may have water on your coil packs...(note fuel pump will also stall the car, but there's more than one cause). Foney, in regard to the fuel pump not been grounded, I had the same issue, car just wouldn't start one day and fuel pump had to be re-ground, not sure if its a stock fuel pump or not but it was ok for about a year (R33 GTR) and it just died a week ago...(fixed now).

Agreed on above, there is more than one technique, and depending on how long you've been training and what your goals are, techniques will vary. I don't have a personnel trainer, but the biggest gain I got was when I asked for a spotter on the bench, without one you don't push yourself hard enough, or you drop a bar on yourself (not fun). They also taught me how to do drop sets / strip sets after doing very heavy lifts... Furthermore, the guy's at Genesis create a plan every couple of months roughly. Agreed. Very true. I believe your referring to Creatine (L-creatine the amino acid) and I disagree with the above, although I'm only on a fraction of the dose that some recommend, but I'm trying to maintain fairly lean muscle, not huge bulk. I also use glutamine (l-glutamine, another amino acid), I don't use protein powder often, I do recommend researching anything you take, I also use Purple Wraath... I agree about diet in general, its all about the goals. The kg/month of gain isn't the best comparison, but I don't remember the first post asking how to bulk up, not sure how we got to this discussion. Interesting discussion though, are you a personal trainer Adam?

My R31 did this, brilliant Nissan engineers decided to put the "ALT" globe in the dash into the circuit. The solder joints just broke again so now my alternator does not work unless it "self-excites" ie. car hits 3500 or 4K RPM. Until then my volt meter sits around 8-10volts. EDIT: in car volt meter, its not perfectly accurate but it tells me if the alternator is running or not On the above, yes, my R31 starting running rough and stalled after been jump started (got about 5-6mins up the road) and driving it with the alternator effectively turned off (I didn't know about the self exciting thing back then ).

Can we close this thread? On the basis that there are too many pointless non-constructive comments ?

PM me if you can't find the SAU code that Harold has, he offers discounts to SAU members at Performancelub, BUT prices did go up from Redline and our Aus dollar is weak so Redline is costly, if you have the money use the best you can, if not group IV oils do well for most people, and one of the Motul's is a mix of group IV and V and supposed to be pretty good, see first page.

Excellent, good to know some people put some effort in Very little discussion of mineral oils to use, there are threads outside this one discussing bedding in the engine, personally, I'd ask the person who built your motor first, then compare with other advice you've seen. Personally I'm using German Castrol 0w30 with a fairly large oil cooler, and it averages constant 70 degrees hitting 80 unless its a very hot day, then it could get hotter, I was planning to use Mobil 1 0w40 but read that at the higher end it breaks down a little and is closer to the German Castrol 0w30...(that's what I read on Bob is the oil guy, not 100% sure it true but I'd trust their opinions over my own ). Anyway, any fully synthetic (group IV or V if you can afford it), as recommended in the sticky, you may want to try a 10w40 and see how you go with your weather / oil cooler / car AFTER you've bedded everything in. EDIT: I'm changing at 10K interval's I have not had a used oil analysis done as I lack the technical knowledge there, other people have and have no issue with 10K so I'm sticking with that. Furthermore, I have read that oil filters get better after 4K, as the once you filter a bit of the larger particles you can trap smaller particles that would normally slip through the filter...so I only change my oil filter every 10K.

Hmmm, there are a few wires that go into another loom and out comes a big thick brownish wire, which is what has been grounded to make it work... I'm thinking its probably fine to leave it grounded directly rather than trying to fix the original ground.

In court technical details do matter, but it can't be something tiny that will get you off on a "technicality".

The fine actually can change quite a bit depending on discretion, which depends on the judge. Not sure if you can find the law online, it will be in law books I agree with a previous poster, if you go to court its like rolling a dice, if the magistrate is having a good day you'll be fine, if not then it may not end so well...

You can drive anything on your L's (with a fully licensed driver), just not on your P's....

Burning oil normal? I completely disagree, I've never seen oil loss in my car, and I hope not too

Nissan Silvia's body building section is excellent, read the stickies, read the again And then ask questions much later, there is excellent info on that forum.

That behavior sounds abnormal...do you hear any other sounds? If you release your foot off the brake does the car hold it position / move forward ? Ie. is it any different to neutral?

Metal coat hanger, and some creativity and patience...

In the boot on R33's, but then the battery is there as well for 33's...might be the same place on R32's.

I use and recommend the QFM A1RM pads, but read the brakes sticky, plenty of varying opinions in there of whats good / not good. NOTE: I only do light trackwork and you *have* to bed in the pads carefully and machine the rotor.

You have a high risk of the judge throwing it out of court within 5mins, while a 3km/h fine is a little ridiculous it is the law

Hi, As per title I had some issues with the R33 GTR, it just wouldn't start, ended up been the earth to the fuel pump, if earthed to the battery it works fine (spliced the big brown wire that goes to the brown and grey plugs in the top of the fuel cell). The only question is, could the non-working earth cause problems for other parts of the car? And where can I find the earth that is used for the fuel pump? I didn't see where the wires went too, can anyone help? Thanks, Gareth