some_cs_student

In other countries when the interest rates were close to 0% the bank continued to charge 6% interest Although imagine a fixed 3 year loan @ 3%, I could afford a house now lol

Yes but even if you don't agree about the dyno measuring peak power correctly, it is a tuning tool in the sense that it can be used to determine if the boost is coming on too late, or the power / AFR ratio could be better at some point in the rev range. I mean, my car may be making less power on the dyno (and has stock turbos), but its curve is much more smooth (more like an arc then a very slow increase in power;) ). I also make ~200kw much earlier than in that graph....a lot more similar to what beer baron showed. I think there is more tuning to be done there or something is wrong...

Did you bed them in correctly? Have you read the other brake squealing threads on possible fixes? Did you machine the rotors before they went in? (really need a brake squealing FAQ)

R33 has quite a lot of rear seat space so you could use that, the boot isn't that big in them...

This has been covered a few times in other threads. Looks, personally I'd do R33 -> R34 -> R32. R32, R33, R34 all have RB26's so same engine unless you have a N1 block or a special edition of the R32 / R34 (unlikely but possible, Nur-spec R34's are nice ). Turbo wise R33 is better than R32 (slightly) although still ceramic and don't last at high boost due to ceramic wheels, R34 is better again (slightly). Gearbox wise R32/R33 have 5 speeds, R33 Series 3 has improved synchro's R34 has a 6speed gearbox. Performance is R34 -> R32 -> R33, weight-wise R32 is the lightest, R34 the heaviest. R33 is longest, R32 shortest. Brakes R33 GTR -> R32 GTR, R34 is probably better again but I'm unsure. V-specs have stiffer factory suspension and active (viscous) LSD's non-V-spec don't. Most modifications are illegal, depends on state. Is that enough info? You'll find plenty more if you search or look at JBSkyline or the specs of the different models.

GTST, please edit your post so the email address is more like x (a t) website.com That way its harder for automated spam bots to grab the address...

If anyone else is looking for a fire extinguisher this ebay seller is selling some with metal bracket for $10 each: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=150304645268 In Thomastown with pickup only.

Since when are mini-spools / spools legal? And in which state? I've always been under the impression they were illegal.

Might be worth trying the importing section. Are the Jap tyres following the Aussie speed rating system? You have to buy a certain speed-rated tyre. And the Jap tyres would probably have to comply to some Australian standards, I'm not sure which ones, you might find more info in the importing section....

What's the car for? I'd take the R33 GTR for a weekend car, and if your looking for a daily and you don't mind expensive maintenance bills, been paranoid about the car and a pretty bad turning circle, rear vision visibility (prob similar to GTT's the rear wing gets in the way) then definitely go the GTR The paranoid thing will probably extend to a GTT as well though. Some people drive GTR's daily, but your running more expensive tyres (usually, aftermarket rims can change this on GTT's), larger brakes, and everything costs more because its a GTR (eg. clutch replacement et cetera). The GTR however is an amazing track car and a lot of fun to drive.

There's a really high chance he's got a compliance cat and not the Japanese GTR cat on it....(a quick check under the car will confirm ).

Interesting, I had the same problems with a stock steering wheel, but this was *after* the aftermarket steering wheel was removed. Anyway, you only save weight on the R32's, not the R33's, lockbar is an option (and removing the globe). See the tutorials section if you decide to remove it rather than try to fix it.

I'm planning on the buying-and-renting system as well, but I'm currently investing some more money in shares due to the market been low. If we are going to be badly effected by the world economies, and the price of things start going up but salaries don't, I can't see how housing prices could increase as well due to people having less money to make the purchases. So I'll be waiting another 6months at least and trying to save some deposit up (less share investment...).

Ah, interesting, I just had to replace my transfer case as it had some issues (badly slipping and the shaft (?) inside it was making a grinding sound), a 4WD dyno would be an interesting way of confirming the second-hand one I got doesn't have issues... Thanks for the info.

To prevent confusion please make it clear which Gareth your referring to, I can see your referring to Rowdy32 in that post (I think)

I never said it was transferring more than 50%. I meant more as in it will transfer more power to the front wheels than a standard transfer case would at a given amount of slip, ie. if it was trying to transfer X amount of power a modified transfer case would give it a little more. EDIT: so it would reach the so called "50%" if that is the case, a little faster than a non-modified transfer case due to the change is clutch plates. Furthermore, since your referring to the torque split gauge as a percentage you clearly don't know what your talking about there, it's not a percentage. Your point about the clutch plates compressing is noted, as as most of your points, but you don't need to come across so arrogant in your posts. EDIT: On second thought, I haven't slept for a few days so maybe I'm the one mis-interpreting, I guess I'll find out from your next post. Your "locked" made me think of how a 2-way diff locks at a certain amount of torque going through it, I now understand what you are referring to as "locked" makes sense now, simply a mis-interpretation there.

I had a similar issue in a *different* car, an R31, the car would run fine for a while, then it would surge and stutter and stop running. I found that the dash voltage gauge was very low, but when rev'ed over about 3K RPM it would go back to normal, the alternator was actually self-exciting at that RPM. The problem in the end was a globe in the dash which controls the alternator, if the globe doesn't turn off (globe was blown) the alternator doesn't turn on (unfortunately I bought a new alternator and returned it before finding out). BUT if it was your alternator I wouldn't expect your car to start by itself later as the battery would have been pretty drained....

Hmmm, why exactly do you want to keep the pod filter? I see it as: Performance? Without CAI it's not so great. Legal? Well no, prepare for a defect in most states if you've got the intercooler as well. As per previous answers you could use the stock airbox which will hide it, but you've still got a fair chance of getting defected for it, so it's your choice if you want to play it safe or not. Getting a black intercooler may help too, but its not exactly foolproof

It might help people if you post up the AFR ratio's from your last dyno tune, just to check the tune itself wasn't anything too unusual....

Use carpoint, carsales and the redbook / glasses guide to find out what value the car has and check if its a reasonable price in the current market. Also remember series 1 are worth less than series 2 (not sure by how much outside the GTR's ).

Accommodation booked,will send off entry forms soon

With the PDF we're discussing: http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyre...0/0/part_09.pdf Left turning signals while existing a roundabout a normal in England, not Australia In regard to the PDF I read: Rule 112 and 113, left and right indicators before entering a roundabout advise to leave the indicator on until you have left the roundabout. Rule 118 contradicts in the way I interpret it, are you indicating left to show your exiting a roundabout after U-turn? Or after a right-turn? Also, is this roundabout a standard roundabout? (ie. 3-4 entry points).

I've always read it was to assist at higher speed turning, it's not a parking assist, what would 1 degree do anyway when parking? Anyway, the pumps/hoses only get removed with R32's (which saves weight), R33's just have a lock bar put in, much more simple. HICAS is something you will most likely notice when you have lost control of the car and it tries to correct...best to experience this on a circuit of course

As per Ash's post, its not going to be providing 50% to the front wheels. However, since a modified transfer case will have a slightly more / different clutch pack, it will transfer more to the front wheels, but in the end it won't make much difference on a dyno. Not sure what your getting at when you say "locked" its a transfer case not a diff, it doesn't lock (from my limited knowledge of GTR transfer cases ) Please tell me if anyone disagrees with the above, still learning about Skylines

DT panels in Springvale have reasonable pricing.