some_cs_student

I don't have issues with traction in the wet with a fair amount of throttle, too much throttle and you lose it but I do have AWD... How *much* power are you putting down? With how much accelerator? You could have badly setup suspension OR bad tyres, or you could just be overestimating your car, most cars with a good LSD get sideways in the wet with heavy acceleration, but it's hard to tell on a forum what exactly is going on. There are some serious topics on getting power down somewhere here (as in suspension, not about right-foot control ) EDIT: Oh, on corners, it could be suspension setup or it could be overestimation of the car's handling. What rating are the springs of your suspension? And Dunlop LeMans are *ok* in the wet, not the best, I have them as well, the fact that you have 18inch rims on a GTST also means much lower profile so that's probably not going to help.

I don't know suspension too well, but I think I've read, and it seems logical, that when you go from your 1million kg/mm , to something much softer, the shock probably won't take it too well and will wear out very quickly...

You need to bleed your brakes, a very common technique explained on the internet. Basically there is a bleed valve near the break, you pump the brake with the valve open, and you will lose some fluid but also flush any air out. Start at the rear passenger side, then rear drivers, then front passenger, then drivers side brakes, bleed one at time, very helpful to have someone to help you with this Search the forum for more info.

To the original poster, bad luck with that, that's way too extreme for what was done, BUT, it's way too late now but be very careful with admitting fault to anything in front of police, it can get you into trouble

I've got a few video's to post but probably won't happen until later this week, a little busy at the moment. Also need to find a good website to upload them too, probably just youtube...

On my temp gauge I get to 70 degrees (celcius) when warmed up completely, up-to 85 degrees when the car is not getting much open air, using a 0w30 oil, I do have an oil cooler. That's the temps I usually run in most weather conditions...(so far)

A little last-minute but do you just run the standard street tyre pressures at Deca? Currently running 38psi all round on 235/45/17 (stock GTR rims) on some Dunlop LeMans tyres...

Just buy another clutch-fan, but it does cost $385 new,see my previous threads on the issue. Or you can go the thermo route, plenty of info on the forum on that, I'd personally buy a new clutch fan OR grab a second hand one, second hand can be quite cheap (mainly wreckers, they're quite rare to find)

Check the FAST thread, chooks post's in particular.

Lol, of course they have a filter to fit the skyline, just ask for this one: Outside Length: 280mm Outside Width: 165mm Height: 28mm To fit, Nissan S15/14 200SX,S13 180SX,Pulsar GTiR,N14 N15,Skyline R32,R33,R34 Subaru WRX, Commodore VL-VS V6&V8 Hmmm, if you say "Holden VS" or similar you'll get the right filter, although I had the same issue when calling around, had to say it was the same as a Holden VS filter...

Keeping it simple ay, I've been working in IT for a while, keeping it simple doesn't exist in most cases Thanks for the detailed explanation, it makes sense, I just need to re-read it when I'm awake again, I think other posters in the thread probably have a valid point but there are a lot of mis-interpretations happening in the thread Anyway, if a mod could clean and sticky this, OR at least add it to the tutorial page that would be great

I'm confused WRRR, is what your trying to say, is that each cylinder has a limited capacity for air to go into it? And that if there is say X amount of air, and your compressing it by 12psi, then its not going to matter if you add a second turbo or not? I'm having difficulty interpreting your argument. And the only way I know how to word this is in the form of a statement with non-realistic examples BUT the pressure that is been referred to is referring to the turbo's ability to compress air (isn't it? I'm trying to understand this technology ), so therefore 20psi compresses more air than 10psi, assuming its the same turbo, is that correct? However, if you have 6 turbo's running 12 psi, there's going to be more air volume wise, so therefore this air is going to get into the cylinder, is that correct? And if it is, can you re-explain your argument again?

Also, who installed the clutch? I'd be making some calls on Monday, sorry to hear it's died so soon after you bought it, post some updates once you find out what happened...

Hold on a sec, you got the clutch when? Have you bedded it in? (approx 1000km/s) Ie. ride it in a bit for the first 1000km before you start launching it....

Pretty sure there is something in either the tutorials section, OR there should be one when searched, I've seen them around before.

If anyone is really stuck for accommodation in Sheppaton, I do have a cabin to myself (a large cabin ), but there is a reason for that so PM me if you are unable to find anywhere to stay Friday/Saturday (was forced to book both days by the caravan park)...

Well what I may or may not do may be the same thing Excellent idea.

Understood with C3 events, thanks for the information there, just wanted to confirm that I'm not doing something stupid by using only 1 bolt, and I don't exactly intend on real racing Ryan, there is 1 bolt on each side securing the bottom section of the rear seats, ie. just behind the driver/passenger seat, under the rear seats, there is a bolt that secures that bottom cushion in, that's where I'm bolting too. Due to the way the Fire Extinguisher is designed I've drilled the top / bottom hole out, the middle section is where the hinge is so it can't be drilled there, as long as the bolt is tight it should be secure

Too late, I went and grabbed 4 but they're all been used by family, he had 50 in total on ebay so there should be some left. I was going to post the shop but PM'ed it instead, but now I think about it its free advertising for him, so its: 87 May Road Lalor, small clothes shop right on the corner of May Rd and some other road in the area (wasn't paying attention at the time). Its open 9-5PM Monday to Saturday.

4 bolts? Where? Why? Anyway, I'm not a fan of 1 bolt but its a street car that *rarely* sees the track (due to $$$), I'm using the rear footwell so one bolt, no nut! The rear seats have a bolt at the bottom on each side that secures the rear seats in, I've got the Fire Extinguisher with 1 bolt (well its now an allen-key like bolt) going through the extinguisher then securing the rear seat. Same here, only question is have you done AASA / CAMS events with it before? Just been paranoid, last thing I want is to get knocked back after driving to Shepparton.

Obama's policies seemed pretty strong, however, would you prefer McCain, and then Sarah Palin taking over if McCain has any issues? Just thinking of McCain's age, he is getting old... I'm glad Obama one, but the only true test of his skill is time

If you go to court, you will delay it, but you have a risk of getting pinned much harder, the penalties will be different in court.

The oil is going to be pretty damn thin at 120-130degrees! I would strongly recommend you upgrade your cooling before getting that high, or do a cool-down lap if your on a track Or run a higher temp oil (within reason)

Thanks Deren, it all makes sense now, and an excellent explanation there I have seen the overflow in use when the coolant boiled and went out of the overflow tank, I think I've got that under control now I'll make sure to fill the radiator header tank about half-way, right now its using about 1/6 of its full capacity.

Image attached, I'm referring to the circled item, it's connected to the radiator, from the radiator, it can overflow to the standard overflow tank (drivers side plastic overflow tank), unfortunately I've seen that happen once