some_cs_student

DT do some great work at very reasonable prices, I had my side skirt repaired (was cracked) and re-sprayed. Since they made a hairline crack in it when putting it back on they took it off and fixed the tiny crack Excellent service and good quality work.

In England they do paint camera's in fluro colours, because its *not* all about the revenue, if only we could do that

I'm also curious how you differentiate the people who know nothing and the people who sound like they know what they're talking about but don't. For example, I read in a clutch thread (for sale) on another forum, someone said the plates had 3.3MM left (originally 3.9 or 4mm), and someone chipped in "I think that's the point before they need a rebuild". Obviously that's not true but its the internet, you have to accept that some EVERYONE has a right to voice there opinion. If there the forum was a community of experts they're certainly wouldn't be 1/2 this number of members There's also the fact that people who start off without much knowledge usually build knowledge over time and often make a contribution. Anyway, don't think this thread is going to go very far....

If you name the above filters you will get a response, when you say Skyline it might not be in the book Fabre Australia and Racegear sell them.

Aftermarket ECU maybe? There are other ways to do it though

HICAS is not a parking aid, its approx 1 degree of movement from the rear wheels, its for cornering and its only at certain speeds or something similar, I don't know the technical details. The HICAS doesn't really kick the rear out as such, but it does confuse most drivers who have it when they lose control as it makes the car less predictable, that's why anyone who does circuit work will remove it. I had some issues with it on the street, for some reason my one didn't like highway's and I was planning to do track occasionally so I spent $80 removing it

Thanks, rebuilding sounds like the way, its very difficult to find a workshop that doesn't mind the car sitting around temporarily but I think I've found one in Vic

Lol, thread closed? If you seriously want to improve the thread you can contribute to the first page by writing something useful and hitting the report to moderator button. The best we can do is try to keep the first page up-to-date as a summary of the thread, there's no point closing it as there is lots of useful info. that people don't have time to read.

I called NPC and they offered a rebuild price below $800 so that's sounding very reasonable if I was quoted the correct price. Next problem is finding someone who doesn't mind waiting a week for my clutch to get rebuilt....I might give RE Customs a call and see what they think, but the car will be sitting for a while

My OS Giken wasn't easy to drive, but its a solid clutch OR it was already gone when I got the car. Anyway, I was pleasantly surprised by NPC's rebuild price, if it was quoted correctly its below $800 and I'm getting it rebuilt soon....just need to find a workshop that doesn't mind a 1 week wait for the rebuild

Hey, I've already got a general topic about my clutch rebuild or new clutch in the drivetrain: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Os...ui-t236817.html And I'm getting some good advice there, but just wanted to know if anyone know's a good place for high quality clutches OR a twin plate rebuild in Melbourne. Currently I'm planning on giving NPC a call and maybe Jim Berry if I can afford the phone bill But do we have some good places in Melbourne? I've done a quick call around about getting it fitted, seems to cost about $400 to fit a clutch... Thanks, Gareth

Not a bad price, if they can deliver in 7-10 days that's pretty reasonable, especially compared to the bad stories I've seen about nengun. I'll check it out after giving NPC clutches a call about a rebuild, and trying to track someone down in Melbourne. Only issue with buying off Greenline is I'm not quite sure which exact model I have... Keep the suggestions coming

After reading clutch housing explosion I'm starting to think maybe I should go for an anti-burst cover AND re-consider my choice of clutch. Any recommendations?

Hey, Unfortunately most workshops are closed on Saturday or don't answer there phone, so I'm wondering if I could get some advice from the forum members. EDIT: read $350 - 400 is normal for fitting a new clutch. My twin plate OS giken has started slipping quite badly, anything below 3K RPM in 4th gear makes strange sounds while driving, you can rev upto 3K RPM in 1st and wait >0.5 second before the car starts moving, and it all gets worse if you keep driving the car. So, I've done some research and Jim Berry used to rebuild twin plates OS giken's for about 1100 and machine the fly wheel. I use the car for street and a light track day, I don't drive it hard off the track (often anyway), and I only do the very occasional track day so it would be more like 70% street. I'd like my clutch to slip a little more than the OS giken did but I'm a little short of $$$ right now so I'm happy to put up with it if the price is right. Car is making 250RWKW, but in 6-12 months I want to reach about 320AWKW....and keep the same clutch. I am unsure which OS giken it is, its grab point is right near the top and when it was working it preferred to be launched at 3K RPM otherwise it would slip and grind and rattle.... I am not overly concerned about the twin or single plate clutches, I just prefer a clutch with a little more slip and a reasonable price... EDIT: Please feel free to recommend other workshops that rebuild clutches, in Vic or elsewhere Thanks, Gareth

Have you tried PsiParts (on the forums and an online shop).

Never knew they existed, probably try the R31 Skyline Club....there members might know who has one.

No, as per previous discussion in the thread you do not need to buy thicker oil as the engine gets older.

Good luck with it, the R33's are not that different weight wise to the others its mainly the look that some people don't like. I like the look of the R33, I do cop it because I own a Japanese sports car and its "jap crap" and its difficult to work on. While the difficult to work on part is true, I don't worry about it, its just peer pressure in the end.

With the brake fluid consider something like Motul RBF 600 brake fluid (dot 4.1 but high boiling point), can be bought from bike shops for about $15/bottle (roughly) Oh, track days often have a driver training session available that you can do...

Things have changed since this thread was created, there are a number of places that can do ADR complaint lines, ring around a bit. I got them for $160 custom made, but my brake lines were non-standard, a little shorter than normal

Did you buy the car for yourself or for some kind of special status among your friends? Some consider the R33 the worst of the skylines, because its the largest, if you watch the track times, the R33's are often faster than R32's and R34's, its all dependent on what you've done to the car and driving ability. It's not that R33's were not as good out of the factory than the other skylines. If your really worried about your friends opinions, you should consider an SS (most people like Holden's) or a BMW/Mercedes, but I'd worry more about what you want than other people

Not that's an idea....same dyno, same day needs to be done as above to make it a real comparison Even then it wouldn't be the same as the street, maybe you should do it down the quarter (quick change between runs)? lol

There was a post about this a long time ago as these devices are used on ships, something to do with a slight positive charge on the car preventing more rust or something....not sure where that post went but I'm sure someone will correct my statement that's probably incorrect

Nice, maybe put that into the tutorial section?

When you say active LSD, are you talking about a viscous LSD? They're completely different to mechanical LSD's.... I think paulr33 (or someone on the forums) tried to get his rebuilt and found it extremely difficult to do...mechanical are well known and easily rebuilt..