some_cs_student

R31Nismoid, just want to clear up something, your post advises GTSS/-7's/R34N1's are the same, but this thread, second page in particular: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...tml&hl=2860 Advises -9's are GTSS and -7's are R34 N1's which are a smaller difference but they are different. Just trying to work out who is correct on the turbo specs... Oh, Phatboy, I think 2860 and 2560's are the same in the end, the above thread may clarify it.

Is it at 40k's or when accelerating to 40k's? I've got a tiny part of my exhaust touching a support bar and it makes a rattle at low speeds only (or at least you can only hear it a low speeds)

400 km / tank is ok, a tuned PowerFC will get you more power AND more fuel economy is your tuner is very good and you don't use the accelerator a lot Normally you do a few mods and get a Power FC and more power, but it's not cheap, and its not going to magically get 600km/tank or something...the best I've ever got was 11l/100km on mostly highway driving in a GTR, with a tuned Power FC.

Sorry to drag up this old thread, but DECA has a fire extinguisher requirement so I managed to get one with a metal bracket ($10 in Lalor ). When mounting near the rear seat, can you mount the extinguisher with 1 bolt? (A 1KG extinguisher). Or does it require two bolts (ie. drill into the car for the second bolt)? I've searched but everything says fire extinguisher complying to CAMS standards, I couldn't find that information, I do know it needs to comply to a certain Aus standard but unsure about mounting standards... Regards, Gareth

I can't remember if it comes on with the air con, but it does come on above 60 degrees without air con, at least on the R33's, I'm sure its very similar on other models.

You *could* machine the housing to loosen it up a little (diff rebuild). OR you might be able to use a different oil or some LSD additive to quieten it down a bit...(not sure of the exact details, I've seen the product names before and there's a sticky on recommended oils)

Is there a simple answer? I'm sure someone knows the answer...

Does the dash gauge for the AWD system show any action when the vibration happens? And if so, how's the front diff? The rear diff will do that vibration when turning it will locks very hard, sorta normal for a GTR diff, also happens if the wrong fluid was used in the diff... Oh, any chance you can PM me the cost of that transfer case rebuild? My transfer case also died recently, it wasn't the clutch plates though, it was a shaft inside the case...

Not a law graduate, but entered an intersection, got stuck in traffic which suddenly stopped, light turned amber, started moving forward when light turned red and went through intersection. In the picture you can see my brake lights on, but it's only a tiny bit into the intersection. Got red light ticket, went to court, judge was not willing to listen and through it out in 5mins even though the prosecution continually changed the story of how the system worked, every 2 weeks it was a different story, and it was changed again on the day of the court, they also delayed the hearing by about 4months to work out what to do. In *theory* if your are *on* the line and the light goes red (as in your rear axle is on the line) you *should* be fine, in reality I don't agree, if you are in this situation I see two choices: *Charge into the intersection, if your not near the line your, your in the intersection and your fine. *Reverse back behind that line, if the camera goes off you can probably get away with reversing back (which is illegal as well but probably a minor issue).

Damn, just picked up 4 of them, could have saved me a good long drive to get them Its actually a clothes shop that's selling them just out of Thomastown, metal brackets and all, unlike the Supercheap plastic bracket versions for $30

Just FYI, I called about 6 wreckers, and got one from Oakleigh, they just pulled it off a car on Thursday, it was $50, and $55 at another wrecker, which isn't too bad. Not cheap, but just be warned about the private sellers trying to sell them to you for $75, they're rare but its just plastic in the end.

Black fan? Do you mean the one at the front of the car just in front of the grill? It turns on at 60 degrees (I think), if your car set it wasn't hot and the coolant boiled, maybe the thermostat should be checked. Very easy if you have an aftermarket ECU Common causes are also, radiator slightly blocked, water pump dying/corroded, clutch fan not working correctly (small difference apparently). And does your radiator have the stock shroud?

Be warned that some parts are hard to find though, its not a commodore so its difficult to find some parts and easier to find others Importing parts now costs quite a bit due to the yen so that is something to take into consideration as well...

Terry, Corner Nepean Hwy and Bay Road, I've seen people get done ON a red, its a very short light (ie. it goes amber to red quicker than what I would consider average). I've never had an issue with it In regard to Red light camera function, if your wheels cross the section in *front* of the white line (ie. up until the pedestrian crossing if there is one), and your rear wheels pass it (0.5 or 1second?) after the light is red, then the red-light camera goes off. In theory that is...

NPC does custom clutches like Jim Berry, they also do rebuilds, I got a pre-supercopper mix twin plate clutch rebuilt for $680, so if you get your hands on a worn clutch, just get a rebuild if you can't afford a brand new clutch (depending on condition of course). I'd recommend NPC, the clutch feels very good so far but I won't know for sure until its worn in and I test it out properly

Hey, I've got an aftermarket radiator, with an aftermarket tank sitting above it that seems to be connected to it, both the small aftermarket overflow tank (Apexi) and the radiator tank have filler caps so its not really required its just there for some reason. I've also got the stock plastic overflow tank on the side which is where coolant goes if it gets boiled out. Anyway, with the top overflow tank, how *full* should it be of coolant? Normally I only put a little coolant in there but just wondering if that's the right thing to do.... The top overflow tank is connected to the radiator so the only place it can go to is the radiator....(unless the cap comes off). Regards, Gareth

What's "cheap"? When I called around everyone quoted roughly the same price, $400 for a GTR, cheaper a GTST. Plenty of info on workshops in the stickies, I had RE Customs do the change and I'd recommend them.

Sent JapTech an sms as it was a busy day, but will call them tomorrow. If anyone else knows where to get them at a reasonable price please tell me, I keep seeing them for $75 in another state so it's going to be waaay overpriced. Otherwise I could try and get a custom one....(but that's more $$$ and I don't know where from). EDIT: Found the wreckers list, will try making some calls tomorrow, hopefully it won't be too expensive, might tell them its for a GTST lol.

Many people run without that exhaust temperature sensor, so I'd look elsewhere for your issue, the exhaust temp sensor is really to detect if your cat has collapsed (ie. its getting really hot) its designed for a standard cat converter....

If the cat did not collapse, would it be possible that the new cat is running hotter than the stock one? And therefore setting of the sensor? Collapsing after a week would have to be a pretty low quality cat...(or a really bad installation)

Lol. When I was involved in an accident where the other person failed to give-way to oncoming traffic, even the insurance company (his insurance) advised it was his fault *even* if I was speeding (I was actually nearly 10km/h under the limit and he accused me of speeding). Another example is if you stick your nose beyond the white line (stop line for example) and someone hits you, its your fault (failure to give way). So I don't think its going to matter how we was parked he was hit while stationary, it remains your fault, similar if you hit someone from behind (except in a few circumstances...)

Hey, The fan shroud had a disagreement with the fan, and guess who won (fan shroud was already damaged, now its in 2 pieces)? Anyway, I had a bit of trouble finding an R33 fan shroud last time, I think most of the RB fan shrouds are actually the same, does anyone know where I might get one in Vic? I might have to try the wreckers but its hard to find shrouds there, let alone skylines.... Also, has anyone bothered with the aftermarket fan shrouds? They look a bit expensive. This is for an aftermarket (Trust/Greddy) radiator so the shroud will likely need some minor modifications to be re-attached correctly. I've checked the for sale section and found nothing in Vic so far. EDIT: Does anyone know any other Nissan or other car model that has a fan shroud the same size? The clutch fan itself is compatible with a Nissan Pathfinder (from memory) so I wonder if the shroud is the same.... Regards, Gareth

I'd say start a new thread on where's a good panel beater (after searching for one) Remember to take into account that if you claim at-fault, then your insurance rating will go down unless you've got some deal (rating 1 for life or similar), and when your rating goes down your insurance may go up (so take that into account before going to insurance)....

If you want a really good cat, you probably want one that's really high flow and has a metal core unfortunately they cost a lot more than $90. Closer to $300 for a metal inside one. Anyway, what's this about catching fire? They don't comply to ADR standards because (it goes something like this) they don't self-lower (or something similar) and they don't have a wiper blade on the front to wash them. I can't remember if its an "OR" or an "AND" for those requirements, you'll have to look it up to find the correct version but I've never heard of this "fire hazard" version.

Has the clutch fan been sold? If not please PM me.