some_cs_student

Still got 2 working copies of this, anyone got more games for it ? lol EDIT: ok so the picture didn't work, just the original Nintendo NES system (popular back in the late 80's)... 90's games with a real storyline were great, along with the cartoons and the music scene.

You have covered most of the usual points there, but what bedding in procedure did you use? Greasing up the caliper bolts? Haven't heard of that before.....

110 degrees celcius is normal??? I'd be pretty worried when my oil hits 110 it starts to thin out...

Interesting discussion, as I hinted at in the E85 sticky I'm curious how the argument would change if you were planning to use E85 fuel. You will get a more power out because of better ignition timing, but I'm not sure what happens turbo-wise, I *think* that it would make a -7 / -9 or GTSS more attractive then the -5 because you can get a large power level without going for the larger turbo.*** *** Assuming you like response, if you want the hard rush of power at 5K RPM or similar then buy a large turbo

Dirtgarage, that driveway sounds dangerous, for any non-4WD on my driveway you can't attempt to drive straight in without angle to you hear a scraping sound (in stock cars its often the rear). videospace, glad to hear you got it in, I ended up getting my bar re-fiberglassed and re-sprayed and I've been very very careful since then...it wasn't really bad damage but enough scratches to get to me

RB30 fan is different, some say its less efficient, I am unsure. Are you sure the RB20 fan is different to any other RB2x fan?

When clutch fan is warm (water temps above 60 or 70 degree) it should "lock" with the engine spinning upto a certain RPM. So when you turn the car off it should stop spinning very quickly rather than free spinning for a long time (it will free spin a bit when cold). Also, when warm if the clutch fan starts moving (on startup) it will resist anything stopping it from turning with the engine, when my one was gone you could touch it with a finger and start the car and it wouldn't move (until it was replaced)...

I have a very steep driveway so here's how I get in / out, but its only possible because my driveway is really wide, it can fit two cars side by side (nearly ). On the way out: drive onto the nature strip, reverse back on a sharp angle to stick the rear towards the road, then change it the other way full lock, I often do drive a little onto the other side of the kerb because the rear of the car is high enough off the ground. Sometimes forwards / backwards one more time to get the angle right and then gently across the road and it just makes it. Getting in, completely different, I drive on the wrong side of the road because one side of the driveway is less steep then the other, turn late and sharp and the bar *just* makes it (and I"m heading straight for the wall so I stop, I then reverse and go in the 2nd turn Every driveway is different, I've seen a few people make ramps (usually illegal under council law) and someone who had a WRX had a "cross over" built by his council (cost some serious $$$), another person got a free cross over made because she was near a council that did it for free Personally I'm really tempted to pull out a ramp and drive onto it and take it away afterward. Oh how lows your car? My one was 8cm from the ground when I put the Japanese suspension in, raised it to 13.5 and now its about 11.5 or 10.5 at the front bar... Good luck!

I'm getting the feeling this thread had no real aim when it started, the discussion seems pretty boring so far, I mean nothing technical just a "GTR > XR6T" or "XR6T > GTR even if GTR has more power or GTST et cetera. Lol, 300rwkw XR6T vs 300rwkw any R33 will beat the XR6T UNLESS it is a much better driver or tyres or amazing suspension setup or a combination of a number of factors. Can someone tell me what the point of this thread was? Its not like we haven't seen the arguments before, in a stupid comparison like this it usually boils down to: Lighter car with equal power and decent setup wins. Heavier car with a lot more power and decent setup wins. That said we're not even comparing stock cars or modified cars....pointless (first and last contribution to this thread)

My water / oil temp usually sit at 70, sometimes upto 80 degrees, but slowly, unless you have a cooling problem (or when you get out of traffic and get some airflow the oil cooler may drop the temps). Oil pressure changes with acceleration, so that's going to move quite a bit...

Forgot about that, I'm too used to servers where graphics cards are insignificant memory wise Its an unfortunate limitation but 64bit support has been a little slow, I'd recommend trying it these days, as long as your running new software you will be fine. Just run new versions of software, for example in really new versions of java they implemented pointer "compression" to reduce the 64bit overhead which eliminates one of the minor performance issues with going 64bit in java programs

Scanners will fix it, its hard work and only do it if you have done lots of customisations that you really need to keep. The first time you do it its going to take you *forever* to get the right mix of programs, and fresh installs are quick

Technically that doesn't sound right, at least with server editions of Windows 2000 and 2003 you can have upto 4GB of RAM in a 32-bit without any switches on the boot.ini. The *problem* is that the split between user and kernel space is 2/2, ie. your applications can only use upto 2GB anyway. So there is the /3GB switch, in other words a 3/1 split so the OS only gets the last GB. Finally, to go beyond 4GB on intel (I believe its intel only) based processors there is PAE, last time I checked Windows Vista 32bit supported this out of the box and you don't need to explicitly turn it on like in older versions. PAE is 36-bit addressing, its effectively a trick but doesn't work on all programs as far as I know... To summarise I'd still recommend 64bit, but I *hate* technically incorrect data There are various articles on this, http://www.microsoft.com/whdc/system/platf.../pae_os.mspx#EW is one of them.

See SS8gohan's thread or others, its been covered and you'll find a variety of potential solutions in there!

Use (1) and take it like a man! lol How bad is it? My car did it for 3-4months and stopped again, not sure why / how, the best way I found was the touch the inside of the glass or inside of the car, it was *less* of a shock then touching it on the outside. I've seen anti-static straps but they look ridiculous.

Lol, very funny. I'm thinking at night, when its very dark, the only thing I will see outside my factory darkened glass will be some purple flashing lights, I would think its some kind of emergency vehicle that wants to pass me, not pull me over. I cannot see the stickers through tint at night. And no, you wouldn't go to court for driving to the local police station OR your house while been followed by a car with purple lights, even if you did that with a police car you won't end up in court unless you were doing something stupid. If they have sirens then I would take it a little more seriously, if its just purple flashing lights then I'd think it was some kids having fun, people have done it with fake blue/red lights before...

Thanks, interesting document there, will re-read that section

Do you have reference to any document that states this? I've certainly never heard of it before, I would not pull over for anything but a police car as I'd be unsure as to why/who they are.

Interesting debate so far, it will be interesting to see if some of these results are fed into something like the turbo thread...although I guess there's not many people using E85 so not many results yet... Personally I'm thinking what would be the difference on a RB26 between Garett 2860-7 and -9 or would a smaller turbo be more appropriate for the E85? In regard to the more fuel argument, even if you do get more fuel in there, the cylinder's the same size so the exhaust gases would be the same volume (unless more volume of air was in there) or would it be less because you know have more fuel and less air? I never was that good at understanding engines

Choice of ECU has been covered plenty of times, try searching. Usually its best to decide on a tuner and ask them Power FC is very common on skylines tuning on 98 octane fuel...it works with great results. If your using E85 or something then you need to re-consider a lot of things

I've been watching this thread with a lot of interest, great to hear the results you are getting and the lack of problems (your fuel lines haven't melted yet . Just wondering, with all the more advanced timing / less knock, does that change your turbo choice at all? I mean if you had (on a RB26) a Garett 2860 (2560) -9 or -7 and were aiming for 330awkw, would you simply squeeze more power out with the advanced ignition timing? And would this completely change the power curve or would it remain similar? Or would you want to go for a larger turbo like a -5 to take advantage of the more power? I'm planning to run -7 or -9 on an unknown rebuilt motor (don't think its forged) but not for 6-9months, and E85 should be possible by then

I'm running 0w30 right now, it has not "blown out" of my skyline. Slightly modified GTR (250rwkw) with oil cooler and temperatures stay below 80 degrees constantly, usually 70 except during spirited driving. I'm considering trying Winton with the 0w30 to see how it goes on a track... Without the oil cooler it should be ok for the street but 5 or 10w40 if your worried. EDIT: for above poster, once again (its probably in the first post) http://performancelub.com

There a for sale thread here with a stock fuel pump, maybe compare it?

Too much incorrect info in this thread! Search and you will find. To the person posting about new gearbox synchro's they were a series 3 thing, I thought it was the 3rd gear but can't remember To the others, SII has blue trim, SIII has red trim, and I believe series 2 (not series 1.5) had standard passenger side airbags.

Check the tyres sticky, they show what tyres users here have used and reviewed....you will find some tyres are excellent in the dry and pretty terrible in the wet.