some_cs_student

Checked your engine oil recently? Is it ok? Oil pressure ok on the dash?

The pics are missing? The UK version has them: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/111435-speedo-c...ed-r33-gtr.html Excellent write up, I'm off by at least 7km/h at 100km/h last time I went through one of the highway tests, I'm considering doing this mod sometime...

Protein powder, try Dymatize Elite Whey, if you buy a lot you get it cheap from vitaminme.com.au or even cheaper from the store near it in Chapel Street, around $125 for 4.4kg (10lb). Its an concentrate/isolate mix...

Leg press, how good is your technique? I got beyond 350kg but it was more quads if I dropped it very low, to the point I could feel it in my abs and it was done properly, I had to drop quite a lot of weight off it... Your shoulder press doesn't sound right, no offense, but 100kg is massive, I think I have a different interpretation of shoulder press... Anyway, progression is more than diet, its also variation, try varying technique / weights if you get stuck, diet is extremely important

Yes its the Ruzic 4WD controller If you've got some time that would be great, I'm a bit of a n00b with electronics, but can help if you have an IT problem

Didn't you PM me recently? I think your been too paranoid, the GTR traction system isn't perfect, its designed to lose the rear a little before the front kicks in on a corner. The front torque gauge shows that the transfer case is engaging the front wheels from memory...

It's an ECU *feature* you need to get used to it, its more a "miss" at 2-3K RPM where it sorta stops processing for a fraction of a second then gets straight back onto it (which is really annoying!) If you have a fuel cut for a full second you have an issue

Pretty sure its the HICAS computer, check the tutorial on removing hicas, it mentions not disconnecting the ECU for a reason on an R33, I *think* its the same for an R32 but best to check...

Anyone?

Hi, I'm fine with wiring up my car stereo system, but when it comes to installing something like this I'm a little unsure, the installation instructions advise which wires, but I have no idea where the wires are located behind the dash....and my soldering iron is not the best either. Would anyone have time to help install this on a weekend? Preferably South East suburbs, its supposed to be relatively simple, I can offer something, eg. a bottle of vodka or similar for the time..... I'm fine with getting the dash apart, its more the which wire goes where problem and soldering Regards, Gareth

I've got MT90 in my gearbox and the synchro's don't always work, I think I'll switch it for the castrol brand or MTL oil...

So you have a c-spanner, have jacked up the car and the coilover will not move at all? Its not at the end of its adjustment is it? Anything that looks like it might be making it stick there?

"Wash the bores"? Ok, will look round for a tuner, or see if RacePace will do it....but they cost a lot of $$$ When are you coming to Melbourne Guilt-Toy? Thanks for the prompt reply, will get it done sooner rather than later

Hi, After fixing the broken ground for the fuel pump, the voltage was quiet strong, but, will giving the fuel pump wiring a direct ground to the chassis cause an increased amount of fuel to be used? Ie. does the PowerFC need a slight re-tune after the ground wire was changed? I think the chassis ground will be a lot better than the normal car ground, since changing it (factory ground stopped working completely) I've been getting lower fuel economy (could be something else of course). Any ideas? EDIT: while re-reading the Fuel Pump Direct Feed Rewire I found someone mentioning 0.5volts rise after using a new ground with a stock pump, so it appears to make some difference... Regards, Gareth

GT-R32 does extensive testing = Used Oil Analysis? Or just what worked on your motor? Or.....?

No output shaft is fine, see above post, I'm speaking about the previously broken transfer case, but the past tense was not emphasized in my original post and I cannot edit There's a front diff cover? I assume its accessible from under the car? I might try and find it this weekend...

I think I'm getting mis-interpreted a little here, what I really meant was I broke (past tense and now replaced) a transfer case ~4months ago, its was replaced with a second hand unit. RE Customs did the replacement, and they did a great job. I've read, that often the front diff or rear diff may have different gearing, causing the transfer case to break. The slipping on the driveway, was one of the symptoms I noticed last time, yes I understand its not locked 50/50, and that its variable (in fact I bought a Ruzic torque split controller recently, but that's off topic). The rear diff has been rebuilt before and appears to be standard, the front diff has never been removed so I'm wondering........is there a way to check if the front diff is running a different gear ratio? Or do you have to remove it from the car to find out? I'm just worried about the "what if" the next transfer case breaks....is there anything obvious I can check before that happens? Thanks, Gareth

Hi, In the R33 GTR the rear diff has been rebuilt, its pretty tight so it may have an aftermarket shim pack but appears to be a stock diff (its actually been machined 20thou to loosen it but still locks on most corners at slow speed). Anyway, I've broken a transfer case, I've still got the parts to it, the shaft that goes to the rear or front wheels, had a piece of metal that broke out of it, the clutch pack itself seemed to be fine. The symptoms were that of a worn clutch, except very severe at the end (could release clutch and car would not move or stall). Anyway, is there any easy way to check the front diff gear ratio? To make sure the diff ratios are the same? Sometimes when on the driveway (slight angle) the front wheels will not kick in until the rear spins a little bit, is that normal with ATTESA? I had this happen a few times about 3-6months before the old transfer case went so I'm a little nervous, I cannot recall if RE Customs checked the front diff, I mentioned it to them when the transfer case got replaced..... The front wheel torque gauge does show the front wheels kicking in sometimes, and they are definitely working, just not sure if its working correctly or not.... Regards, Gareth

There was a really nice wedding place somewhere in the Yarra Valley I think, I can't recall the name of the place its a fair way out of Melbourne, but great views, and some nice roads on the way PM me if you want me to find the place, I cannot track it down in my email as it was about 2years ago.... Only problem is its a little hard to find and the carpark was gravel from memory.

Hi, Does anyone know where to get the little plastic screws that are in the boot? Everytime I remove the cover to get to the battery I seem to lose one of those little grey plastic screws, does anyone know where to buy them? Thanks, Gareth

Weird, if you ever take off your door (pretty simple) there are a few bolts that may be a little loose.... Oh, back on the Ford Focus, nice cars, difficult to service like most modern cars though

Ha ha, if you do drop by Melbourne anytime soon just tell me Otherwise, I'll try to install it myself, I might be PM'ing for some help though...unless I find someone else who has done it themselves on the forums.

If you haven't done anything wrong and your not challenging the system, you have accepted the problem, in fact your effectively agreeing you have done something wrong when you pay the fine. Which is disappointing, start challenging if your getting done on legal mods, if your mods are illegal then you probably need to get rid of them

Oil is optional I run mine dry, or close enough to dry...

I listen to 90% USB anyway, I have to make a switch for the ATTESA controller, might wire up one for the antenna at the same time. There is an antenna power wire, the amp turn on wire is separate, I have used an adaptor for the aerial...